18' SS YASR. (yet another Starcraft Restoration)

[Cap'nHandy]

Howdy all. I have been lurking here for quite a while. Time to say hello, and join the party. Bought a 76 ( 77 year model according to the title ) 18' SS back in mid July, after looking at too many fibber-glass boats with soft / rotten floors and stringers. Metal - I can deal with that. My Grandfather had an old Lone Star I learned to buck rivets in when I was a kid. She's fairly homely at the moment, seats shot, bad deck, typical 40 years of less than ideal maintenance - and she has an old '74 85 Evinrude. Have had it out a few times to play prior to the work to come. Leaker bad at first, brilliant p.o. had bolted the bilge pump to a piece of corragated steel and popped that into the bilge, so there will be some corrosion repair to look forward to... Various engines issues typical of lack of regular use or maintenance. After a replacing all the fuel line, primer bulb, new water seperator / filter, rebuilding carbs, cleaning / adjusting timer base, new plugs, etc. It runs good. But soon, I will need to start tearing the old decking and transom out, flotation, clean, repair - then in with the new - you know the drill. We may take it to the lake one last time before I start in on it. Want to have it done in time for fall fishing for Reds at Calavaras Lake, and down near Aransas Pass. ( Oct / Nov around here ) . Anyway - pics to eventually come, questions to ask, and people to get to know.

Looking forward to the journey.

Blaine

 

[Watermann]

:welcome: to iboats and the SC tin division

The SS is one of the favorite boats for restoration and for good reason too, they're very versatile for fishing and water sports.

You're setting a pretty short time table for a "restoration" so let the tear down begin!

Be careful using boats with 40 year old rotten decks and transom.

 

[classiccat]

If you've been lurking...you know the drill hoto:

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Ya-Hooo....new Starmada member....after picture dues are submitted............:spy::thumb::ranger:

 

[Nismoron]

Welcome. And yeah? Where's the pics?!?

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Thanks - pic soon. Its dark out, and I have to remember to take a few before I leave for work in the morning. Might load the rollieflex - or get lazy and use my phone. But thats not what I call a photo. ;p So, how much Gluvit typical for the seams / rivets? And how many sheets of ply? I figure maybe 5 - 6 of the 19/32
and 2 of 3/4 for the transom? After I get a good lookit the corrosion - I may decide to use Marine ply, but dont want to spend a fortune for a boat I may only keep a few years. Liekly wont go whole hog fancy - but transom, deck, control cables, and a utilitarian interior for fishing... Yeah. Just minimal but nice enough. Get myself set to decide if I want to tackle a BIG boat project. It's my substitute for watching TV, and wasting time on the intern...




Blaine

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

....for a boat I may ONLY keep a few years......already getting the highly contagious footitise ??????...bigger/better boat???

 

[Cap'nHandy]

No, I don't have the disease. My wife does! I was thinking light, simple, cheap to operate, easy to work on. The 18' aluminum Starcraft seems near perfect.
While it would be nice to have a large 26'+ rig capable of offshore with twins - I also tend to think in terms of 20+ gph = $80 - $100 per hour approximate running costs. If I have to spend that kind of maintenance and gas money, I expect it to FLY, and have a name on the engine like "Lycoming" or "Continental" . . . and be capable of 135 - 160 Knots.

And along those lines, whyintheheck do most boats have speedometers calibrated MPH, and aircraft are calibrated in Knots! I have looked into replacing the speedo, and wanted to find one that went to 40 - 45 Knt. Not much luck. Well, I hope to start tearing it apart tomorrow. images will be made and posted.

Blaine

 

[64osby]

Some where in my barn is a 0-10-Knt gauge that came with my boat. Still don't quite understand it's use.

 

[Clyde S Dale]

Calaveras and Port Aransas you must be around San Antonio. Not many aluminum Starcrafts down here. I'm over at Medina Lake and have a '72 18' Mariner.

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Medina - what?? My grandfather had a place out there - spent many years on the lake and saw it go from low to over the spillway several times.
Now it's in such a sad state of affairs. I learned to swim there, got my first really big injury there at the state park. ( Still have the scar, 50 years later. ) His place was right at the bottom of the hill where it Park Road 37 crosses plum creek, on the right. Used to fish plum creek cove, and run trotlines with an old tin can and 6 hp kicker in the late 60's early 70's. i remember all the good times at the Fireman's BBQ at pumpville, Turk's, Adolph's The Red Hen, and the Palomino - only a few of those remain. Would go to Pipe Creek with my grandmother, she and friends would sit around swapping lies and swatting flies, drinking beer under the covered portion of Judge Jennings Store - When he was still there, selling meat and sometimes dispensing Justice right there from his store. Lots of good memories.

Yes, I live Near S.A. Windcrest actually, over on NE side.

Well I started in on tearing it up. Some comes out easy, ( too easy ) some is really nasty held fast. Hardest part of the work is the heat.
Spent this morning looking for some tools, Needed a couple saws, and a cordless drill. So went and found some used ones in decent shape for a decent price.

Trying to score an engine lift still. No way I am going to manually try and do that, even with help. The deductible and co pay at the chiropractor would be more than a new one!

Pics - here is the first one. Looks like I am going to have to upload them to a cloud server to use more than one or two with the size limits here.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah that kind of works for pics, photobucket works best here and it's free. Just upload pics, copy IMG code and paste into the message here.

Nice looking 18' SS, exactly what I would love to find for my next project to make into a fishing boat. Those V4 Rudes are a bit on the heavy side alright but it should have a lifting ring on it and a come along would do the trick over that big tree limb or rafters in the garage.

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Mearmshurt.


Got 3/4 of the deck out, both consoles, side panels, some carpet, etc. Thanks to my 15 y.o son Ray!! He was a huge help to his old dad today.
He's learnin to fix/repair things. He loves to fish, and this is a great project for him. His next project may involve wheels - something to tow it with...

A little foam from a can in the bow, but the rest is blocks / sheets. To dark when I quit, so will get photos later.

Questions;

How much Gluvit to do all the seams and rivets from just above the waterline, and the bow section?

Suggestions on how to repair whatever corrosion I find?

What was the type of rivet heads and rivet types used, just in case I end up needing to do a few dozen?

Now - Here is a strange question. Anyone think about using foam peanuts, inside plastic bags, and maybe secure with some netting matierieal UNDER the rear splash well in that empty space to compensate for the engine weight should the bad happen. What I am thinking here is easy to remove for maint, but provide for some serious additional bouancy back there. The stuff seems kinda "weak" for other uses, but having a couple bags stuffed under there, and held in place with some form of strap or net, I would rather have the floatation than have it in a landfill. Where i am thinking is also typically unusable spave - and frequently too dirty to store life jackets, etc.

Replacement Bimini. - Suggestions or experiences. Have one sewn up using the old as pattern?

New Deck material. I know lots of guys ( and some gals? ) are using exterior ply - coated with resin. The problem i see with resin is it will crack or get a small ding, and then capillary action will suck in the water. But, it is otherwise so sealed up, that the water cannot easily escape as vapor. Some exterior paint will pass water vapor, but is fairly impervious to liquid water. So the wood can dry out in between uses, if it does get wet.

Finally - ventilation under the deck. Thoughts on that. On an ideal boat trip, nothing under the deck gets wet. I am not usually having things work out ideal, sometimes more like ordeal...

Thanks guys -


Blaine

 

[Watermann]

I sometime use a standard in my head like "what if I'm one of those PO's that everyone here laughs at in 40 years" I would use that when deciding on your question about the styrofoam peanut idea. Yeah I guess it would add flotation alright but take up a huge amount of room to do it and then there's the thought of "I have a nut sack in back of my boat". :lol:

I see your just like the rest of us, your mind is getting way ahead of the current state of the project, already thinking of a bimini top and looking at the entire project in your minds eye. What I did was start ordering seats I liked, gauges, new tools for the upcoming jobs and before you know it I was broke and back to wheeling off corrosion, stripping paint and cleaning up the neglect.

Decking, yeap nothings perfect so treating the wood is about the best we can do. Users choice, resins or spars then a deck covering over the sealed wood. After that it's up to the owner to ensure the decking stays in good shape... it's simple COVER the boat! Using the boat on the water will never amount to the damage caused by the abuse of owners letting rain showers and downpours soak the boat while uncovered... for years.

Ventilation, well I put a fan inside my boat after covering it if things got wet from swimming and such. I just put the fan in the stern pointing forward and open the end of the cover to allow air to escape.

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Thanks Watermann.

The "bag o peanuts" idea is a couple of plastic bags, stuffed into mesh laundry bags and secured under rear. out of site, but easy to remove for things like changing the water separator fuel filter, etc. just a extra couple hunnert pounds of float, so the hull would be a bit higher and more level, should anything get real ugly. Precious cargo on board, ya know? I am looking for any downside I may not have considers, like, if you do that, then X will likely happen. Where X = something bad.
Not some permanent mod that would be a pita to deal with at any point in time, and more convenient than permanent foam under there.

I am making few decisions on things other than what I know I need to replace. Purchases are as needed at this time - since I cannot see the full condition of the hull yet. I know I will need new gauges, regardless. Has a speedo that is way too optimistic - unless I hang a 150 on the back. ( Not likely. ) And the tach was an automotive tach, and is not accurate. So I need a boat tach for 12p anyway.

If I do an engine upgrade, it will likely be a 115 crossflow or 120 looper. But 85 is certainly enough power for fishing, as I get 35 indicated with the aluminum 19P prop. I have a 17 ss that will go on. if I end up swapping out the motor, may bump it a bit on the power.

I try to not spend unless I need to, I have most of the mechanic tools I need, but the tools I need for woodwork are MIA. They were purchased 4 house remodels ago, back in the last century... Reckon I will find them now that they have been replaced.

Got a used DeWalt 950 XRP, for less than half of new, and it was mfg Feb, 2014. A OK Circular and old craftsman scroll saw. . All for less than new harbor freight sh- stuff. No tools - no worky on project.

Once I have done all the prep work, rivets, gluvit, and such. and start in on getting the deck back in, I will know if i want to do a 'keep is close to original config, or go another direction with the seating, helm, etc. Tempting and lots to think about, but I have to weigh the practical and cost against spending too much on a 40 YO boat.

The bimini, otoh, will be the LAST thing I will take off, and the FIRST thing I get back on the hull. South Texas heat. It keeps the sun from turning the hull into a 450 degree solar cooker with me being the main course.

Cover a boat? Sacriliage. Why all that UV is good for it. Sterilizes the germs. And whats this 'rain' thing you speak of? Is it anything like that mythical thing called "snow"? All things considered, a cover is the cheapest / best thing you can do for a boat, if you can't garage it.

I do have a bit of a self imposed timeline. Mid Oct. for re-splash. This boat will never be worth even 6 - 7 K should i want to sell it, so i am not gonna sink a wazoo of cash in it. I am budgeting about 2K for new parts supplies, etc., but hope to finish for about half that. I want Seaworthy, safe, clean, functional, and pretty enough to not apologize for.

Hoping to end up with the functional equivalent of a much newer boat at a fraction of the cost. As I see it financially, owning a boat its like finding great amusement and joy in flushing paper currency down the toilet. But I figure I can have just as much fun with 1's and 5's as with 20's and 100's. Wheeee! flushhhh . . .

My firsthand experiance of a money pit with a propeller - I had a 1957 Piper PA-22 that I bought for 14K and added another 7K of avionics. Required inspections, and compliance with A.D.s cost another 6K or so over the next few years. I flew the tar out of it, till it needed an engine overhaul. Guy doing it dropped dead of a heart attack, and one of his workers stole my prop, cowling, and some other parts. I ended up selling it for 7K. Just like a boat, but little bit more above sea level.

Oh well, rambled on too much here.

Still trying to fing how much Gluvit to order. 2# enough? Hear it goes a long way, but I don't want to get 3/4 done, and run out, and would prefer to not buy a second can I won't need.

5200 - someone fill me in about this stuff. What's is used for an why? I read the destructions - but that is less than the practical applications I am sure.

Thanks.

Blaine

 

[Watermann]

Gluvit, I used the 1 Qt size on my Chief and it was plenty to do the seams and below the waterline rivets.

5200 is really the best thing out there for sealing things up for good. I used a whole construction tube of it on my Chief but only a squeeze tube on my SN. I also have 4200 as well to use above the waterline. Anything below the waterline that you pass through the hull should get 5200 on it and anything else going through the transom the same. The only thing I didn't use it on my Chief was the transom assembly for the stern drive, no need since it has a big seal that goes all the way around the outside of the bolts. The only thing it got was super glue to hold the dang thing in place while fitting the 2 pieces together. For your OB though you'll surely need 5200 on all of the motor mount bolts, transom bracket bolts, stern eyes, transducer screws, pitot assembly and what ever else you mount like a swim platform. .

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Superb. Thank you sir! Exactly what I was looking for.

I will order the stuff asap, as we are 98% stripped out, and 50% to go! Hope to start in with this stuff in the next week or two, depending on how the rest of it goes.

Got all the ply deck, all carpet except one small piece removed. Foam flotation, down to the nasty underneath. Took it to the car wash and pressure washed it to get it all the way from horrid to dirty. Tomorrow after work, I will vac / scrub / wash again.
Then to get the plug in and fill with water to just above the waterline to identify the leaks and evaluate.

I still need to build an outboard stand and pull the motor, then get the transom out.

I should get a good look at the bare hull other than the transom - in the next day or three to see what kind of corrosion there may be.

So far, maybe 10 hours in the tear out. Not rushing, and dealing with the Texas heat.

Thanks again,

Blaine

 

[64osby]

I you're really looking to add removable flotation, I'd look at pool noodles bound together or in a mesh bag long before packing peanuts.

Unless the flotation is locked in place or secured properly it will most likely break away and provide no benefit. My .05.

I used a one pound kit of gluvit on my 14'er. Put it on real thick and had 1/4 of it left over.

 

[Cap'nHandy]

Maybe the oodles of noodles will go on sale at wally world soon.. I am considering moving or adding a fuel tank to under deck, IF I can find a 24+ Gallon solution before I button it back up. Current tank is kinda iffy. And steel will continue to rust over time. Al or Poly wont.

Thanks of the noodles idea. I have seem others here use them. I would add some under the gunnels most likely. If I cant store something there, may as well add some float...

I have only tseen the 2# and 8# kits of gluvit. I have not had time last couple days to do much real inspection, but I see some corrosion where deck screed to stringers. Hull still a bit dirty to evaluate properly. Should be cleaner later this eve, but may be wet from the mythical beast called "Rain". Woot!

Blaine

 

[SigSaurP229]

I would suggest Coat it, instead of Gluvit. and for flotation why make it removable? Use the pink or blue insulation sheets from Lowes or Home Depot, it is the best bang for your buck.

The fuel tank is going to be hard to find a 24' gallon fuel tank to fit under deck in a SuperSport with out paying a pretty penny. I used noodles on mine I would not use them again. If you do use noodles the place to get them is The Dollar Tree.

You have an EXTREMELY ambitious Timeline. I did my 16' in 93 days flat, BUT I repainted as well so if you have no trailer work to do, and you aren't going to repaint and you work at minimum 8 hours a day you can make it.

Especially since you have known good power its do able.


Cheap, Fast or Right, Pick 2