190 omc sterndrive id

[Thurstonformula]

I have a 1977 omc 190 sterndrive model number 981061 serial number w130965 how do I find that exact model to order parts it's on a Thurston formula with a ford 302

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, welcome aboard. I hope you didnt just buy this boat and it was given to you by your grandfather and has strong sentimental ties. that drive was obsolete in 1978, OMC has been out of business since the 90's and Ford has been out of the marine game since the 90's

If this is a brand new purchase, I would highly recommend you return it to its previous owner. just a ball-gear kit, vertical drive shaft and water pump will cost you over a grand. Not to mention you will most likely find structural issues with the hull.

your exact OMC model number is 981061.

this is a stringer drive, however pre the 400/800

Hey @kenny nunez can state exactly which unit this is.

 

[southkogs]

Go to your engine. Back on one of the mounts (probably) you should find another tag. That tag will have a model number on it that should read something like "990232E 1977." I think the number you have listed is the part number for the upper gear case housing.

Kenny will know better, but I think you're still in an electric shift for that 190. The model number from the engine will help you know what part numbers you need. Scott's right - you've got a vintage (read that "old and funky") stern drive. I like 'em, but that classifies me as a "weirdo" in the marine world.

 

[kenny nunez]

Just like the SD & SK posted, you have an antique. With the drive raised how much material is still on the ball gears? Obviously a ”sweet water” boat, no way the drive would have lasted this long with salt water use. The engine has a 351 cam and heads and firing order, 13726548. You probably have a Prestolite distributor should you need points and condenser. If the drive is working then just use it until something breaks. You may find water in the upper gear case and tilt clutch housing. Just change it and play.
Have you used the boat yet? Send pictures of the engine and ball gears.
Keep us posted good luck.

 

[Thurstonformula]

Yes gentlemen I did just buy it the gears they do have a bit of wear but I think that'll be ok for a few seasons I'm not discouraged by the age or effort it will take I love the older stuff its history a d usually really cool my understanding from the old owner is that it runs fine on the hose but motor gets warm in the lake he says it goes through the water fine no jumping out of gear or slippage so my thought is the impeller in the sterndrive is probably shot and not pushing enough water through to the pump in motor but I want to make sure I have the right info to find it and any future parts and I'll get some more pics to post and thank you guys for the input cars I have down and have had a few boats mostly outboards but I'm headed into the unknown for me with this boat lol

 

[Thurstonformula]

Here ya go I didnt see anymore tags might have been removed

 

[southkogs]

I think you're in an electric shift Stringer. But I can't tell for sure from the photos. The model number I suggested to look for will tell you for certain what it is, but be aware that those drives got "frankesteined" quite a bit over the years to keep 'em going. You can find some parts HERE, but some parts are no longer available.

I like the electric shift drives. They have some nice advantages, and you've got tru-course steering on that model which is something else very nice. BUT you cannot re-power that boat with a modern drive line without rebuilding your transom. The differences between that drive and the newer ones is pretty substantial.

The nice part is that the impeller swap is pretty easy

 

[racerone]

Yes it is electric shift.----And in this case it looks like a boat that has had little use or very good care.----If it was bought for a proper price it may well last many more years.------They are not that bad under certain conditions and with an owner that understands / enjoys rolling up his sleeves.----Parts can be found , just not with AMAZON type delivery.

 

[kenny nunez]

Definitely a electric shift and the lower unit gear housing from 68-77 are all the same. The upper case 73-77, the 165-170 & 190 had the same gear ratio.
There is a grease fitting just below the outer steering gear, and under the rubber bumpers As well as one inside the front of the exhaust housing.
I see that it has Morse control cables which means the control box is not a genuine OMC unit, hopefully the shift switch never fails.
Needless to say everything in the pictures shows that the engine looks to be in excellent condition. Should something ever happen to the drive a used Volvo 270-280or a 290 would be the easiest to convert to with your engine after blanking the transom.
The hull is most probably also in excellent condition.

 

[Redrig]

Lets see the rest of the boat! That engine looks to be in fantastic condition

 

[Thurstonformula]

First I want to say thank you for all the input I paid 3000 for it good or bad I'm happy with it and not afraid of having to do the work even if it does come to having to switch them and do the transom I'd prefer to bring it to its original specs if I can hopefully it is just the impeller and I got lucky and again thank you gentlemen I appreciate the shared knowledge

 

[Thurstonformula]

Lets see the rest of the boat! That engine looks to be in fantastic condition

Ok here ya go

 

[Redrig]

yeah, someone took great care of that thing . Nice score !

 

[kenny nunez]

With the boat in the water and the engine idling disconnect the incoming hose from the drive at the thermostat housing, try to stop the water flow with your thumb over the end of the hose. If you can hold it back then the pump needs service. You should check the condition of the thermostat in the housing. It is retained with a “O”ring, sometimes they fall apart.

 

[southkogs]

Very nice boat. And from the looks of it a pretty happy kid! Enjoy!

 

[matt167]

I think $3,000 was a great price. Very nice boat... I bet it's a safer buy than a 2000's Bayliner in rough shape for around the same price. For it to look like that, and be original, it's probably had heated storage it's entire life

 

[Redrig]

Id reccomend getting a factory manual first and foremost .

although that boat is in great shape , for any " new to you" stringer , I would reccomend this list at a minimum before putting it in the water.

inspect ball gears (post pics) beyond 50% wear are considered toast
remove drive
all new fluids - type C in the lower - nothing else
new water pump , obviously since yours is struggling
grease all splines, the pivot trunions , steering ,etc
new thermostat
new points - and all that goes with that
pressure test upper and lower


im sure im missing some other basics , hence the manual. but thats a decent start

 

[Thurstonformula]

Id reccomend getting a factory manual first and foremost .

although that boat is in great shape , for any " new to you" stringer , I would reccomend this list at a minimum before putting it in the water.

inspect ball gears (post pics) beyond 50% wear are considered toast
remove drive
all new fluids - type C in the lower - nothing else
new water pump , obviously since yours is struggling
grease all splines, the pivot trunions , steering ,etc
new thermostat
new points - and all that goes with that
pressure test upper and lower


im sure im missing some other basics , hence the manual. but thats a decent start

Well I have found out that the parts are extremely hard to find for the lower unit I couldn't find any new or rebuilt but I did find two salvage lowers I'm buying both just incase do you know of any good places to look for an old manual for the stringer electric shifts

 

[racerone]

The upper gearbox is the problem area.--------The lower gear box is very good and durable.----Lots of the lowers around.----EG---I know of a few of them in my area.

 

[Thurstonformula]

What should I look for with the upper I know I need to replace the impeller I'm just going to get the kit new lol but I also noticed it's not going into reverse I was going to drop the lower yesterday until I couldn't get it to shift in to reverse I once did an outboard in neutral what a pain in the butt that was with out being able to rotate the prop to alignment the shaft lol is forward ok to drop it in or should I just go for broke