1957 Johnson 35

[Oregon Jon]

Hi there:

As if I didn't have enough project to deal with that I bought this summer, I pursued and been blessed (cursed?) with another... This one is an RD19 Johnson 35 horse electric start. Great shape cosmetically. It came with a free 16' Oasis and trailer and a 1956 30 horse Johnson which is mostly a parts motor. Anyway the 35 seems to be siezed, I can't turn it over with the pull cord but the prop turns freely and it shifts between gears with relative ease. I believe that the motor hasn't run in 20 years or so. Where should I start?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

drop lower unit, remove plugs, and try to turn over. if not remove exhaust covers and take a look. see my sticky at the top of this forum for some pictures.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Remove the 2 bypass port covers from the side of the powerhead and use a flashlight to peer back into the crankcase. If you see any rust on the crankshaft or rods, it's all over.

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Thanks for the advice. I will probably start with the bypass port covers, but before I do.... I noticed that whatever is preventing me from pulling the start cord SEEMS to be in the recoil / manual start area. I checked the electric starter to see if it was engaged and it was not. Is there anything on the top side of the motor I should check first?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

there is a lock out lever on the starboard side of the motor, it locks the flywheel, if the throttle is too high or the motor is in gear. sometimes they get out of adjustment of the spring gets weak to release it.

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Yup, that was it. How do I adjust it properly? All of the springs and things seem to be in good shape. The old Clymer handbook I have has some basic steps but it is referring to a 1965 33horse. Am I safe to assume it would be the same? Also, should I go ahead and pull the bypass covers to check for rust now, or what is the next step? I haven't checked compression (not exactly sure how) but there seems to be smooth pressure when I pull on the cord.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

I also have a 57 35hp (and funny enough, mine also came with a '56 30hp parts motor like you) and don't believe it is that close to the '65 33hp. That's good that it was only the lockout. If it is turning freely now, I would not pull the crank covers but would do a compression test asap. You need a baseline and to also see if it's worth putting any loot into the engine. Basically, pull the 2 plugs, screw in a gauge and turn it over several times per cylinder to get a good reading...

After that you should address the coils, impeller and points. Check out the thread on this forum "Awakening a sleeping outboard", search for it. It will cover all of what to do.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

with the recoil off there is an inspection plate on top of the flywheel. if your coils look like these they are toast. these are totally fired, as a wire got crossed and 12 volts were sent directly to the coils. if cracked, checkered they need to be replaced. i would replace the coils, condensers,point, plug wires all at one time, do a carb kit and impeller. then you will have a reliable motor. +-$200.00 laingsoutboards.com has all the parts. this is my RDE19C.

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Thanks Sam, I had looked at that post awhile back and forgotten about it. Here is the link. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

with the recoil off there is an inspection plate on top of the flywheel.

I hopt that I am "posting with quotes" correctly here. I loosened the four main (outer) bolts on the recoil housing. There is a center nut at the top of the recoil as well as two additional nuts on the port rear side of the housing attached to a plate that sits on the under side of the fly wheel. Do I need to loosen or remove any of these to get to the inspection plate, or do I remove the housing as a single piece, recoil pullstart and all?

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

You need to remove the 4 main screws/bolts that hold the recoil start on, you also need to undo the lock out at the front over the carb (1 small screw as I recall) and also to undo the compression relief bar (if it's still on) that goes to the back to release compression on the head. The metal plate that is under the pull start does not need to be removed as the recoil can be slid so as it will come out the side... Then remove the recoil start... then you will see 2 small screws holding down a quarter sized plug on the flywheel... remove these and you can now see your innards... if the coils are cracked at all (or blown like TD's), pull the flywheel for further inspection...

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

OK. What does the compression relief bar look like and where would it be in relation to the recoil housing?

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

If you have to ask then yours is not there as it's really obvious when it's there. It's a 1/2" wide bar that ran from the recoil start to the back of the engine then a vertical component went down and opened the 2 little spring type valves on the back of the head and relieved pressure into the little chambers beside the valves. You will see these spring type valves on the head unless the head has been replaced with a later model... (around 62 or 63 I believe). The idea was that when pull starting it would lower the compression pressure and make it easier to pull start as pull starting the 35's and then the 40's was a lotta work!

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

From what you described I am sure that you are right about the comp relief bar Sam, but if I did this right there should be a picture attached if you wouldn't mind confirming.:redface:

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

you can see the compression release lever on top of the motor, you can also see the fuel pump conversion, is did so i could use the single line tanks, from my other motors. the fuel pumps were a new option, that year, so it really does not devalue the motor. F_R was a great help in the fuel pump conversion.

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Alright I pulled the recoil, opened the inspection plate and was able to see the points and coils. Everything looks good, in fact very clean from what I can tell, but I would assume that I should pull the top plate to be sure. I unbolted the plate from the flywheel and removed the main bolt from the crank. The plate is obviously not going to come off easily. Do I need a gear puller at this point or am I going about this the wrong way?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

The "plate" is called a flywheel. Yes, you absolutely do need a puller to get it off. Most people use a harmonic balancer puller available from auto parts stores. Use only Grade-8 hardened bolts with it. They go into the 3 holes near the center of the flywheel. Screw them in 7/16", no more and no less. Then give it heck. After MUCH force it will pop off. You need a torque wrench to put it back on. Tighten the nut to 60-65 ft/lbs, no more and no less. The shaft and flywheel tapers must be clean and dry before reinstalling flywheel.

DO NOT use a gear puller that grabs the outer rim of the flywheel. It will destroy it!!

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

You need to remove the 4 main screws/bolts that hold the recoil start on, you also need to undo the lock out at the front over the carb (1 small screw as I recall) and also to undo the compression relief bar (if it's still on) that goes to the back to release compression on the head. The metal plate that is under the pull start does not need to be removed as the recoil can be slid so as it will come out the side... Then remove the recoil start... then you will see 2 small screws holding down a quarter sized plug on the flywheel... remove these and you can now see your innards... if the coils are cracked at all (or blown like TD's), pull the flywheel for further inspection...

OK, what I see are nice blue coil units and points that look new. I want to do it right (I guess I've already shown my ignorance) but I feel like I am entering another dimension with the special gear puller. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet or put it back together and go to the next step, i.e. compression test?

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

If the coils are blue and no cracks and the points look good and the ignition wires look good also, I'd leave it all alone unless there proves to be an ignition problem in the future... but that's me... other's may differ... so yes, move on to compression...

p.s. and TD, that's a 58 35hp, not a '57! Don't confuse the guy! (ok, ok, I know they're the same...)

 

[Oregon Jon]

Re: 1957 Johnson 35

Well, I have to admit that is what I wanted to hear. Thanks, F_R for the how to on getting it off. I will no doubt need that info in the future. I will post the compression results as soon as I can. Thanks again everyone