1958 Evinrude 18hp Fastwin electric start

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
What kind of fuel tank do I need with this motor? Also, if anyone has experience with this motor, is it a good one? It is in great shape, and looks awesome for almost 60 years old.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Pressure tank, unless converted.

Is it a good motor?! Heck yeah. Pound for pound the best in my opinion.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,412
That motor stayed basically the same for the next 18 years or so.----One of the best motors you can own for easy repairs / parts availability for years to come !!!
 

bwkre

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
178
Not too many pieces of equipment last 57 years. If it's in good shape and looked after it will last for a long time to come. Also one of the best hp/weight ratio motors around. I've got a 1961 model and love it.
 

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
Wow, that is great news! But....I have seen two types of metal 6 gallon tanks. One with a plunger type primer button. And the other with a bulb in the gas line. Which one will work, or both?

Additionally, the motor has no kill button, and there is no key switch, just the wiring harness. Looks like its in good shape, suppose I'll need to get a key switch?
 

fhhuber

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
1,365
Should have 2 lines from motor to tank. Sometimes a bulb in the fuel line for priming but that wouldn't be stock, the other line is pressure from the engine to the tank.
The pressurized tank system needs a non-vented cap and you need to exercise caution opening the cap.

Its recommended to update the wiring with one of the lanyard kill switches. While its not required for the old engine, the kill switch (if you actually clip it to yourself...) prevents a runaway boat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-v9V5qHxrM
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Wow, that is great news! But....I have seen two types of metal 6 gallon tanks. One with a plunger type primer button. And the other with a bulb in the gas line. Which one will work, or both?

Additionally, the motor has no kill button, and there is no key switch, just the wiring harness. Looks like its in good shape, suppose I'll need to get a key switch?

Is there a single fuel line going from the connector to a fuel pump, or is there a double line with one going directly to the carburetor and the second going to a port on the front of the block? If a single line, you need the newer style tank with a squeeze bulb in the line. If a double line, you need a pressure tank with the plunger primer.

So it has an electric starter? Is there also a starter solenoid under the cowl? You don't need a key switch - you can install a start button and mount it right on the front of the lower cowl area. See this post for a good wiring diagram which F_R provided:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...iring-question
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Pics helpful. The '58 came with a kill switch (protrudes from the front of the pan, if it's there). But you can choke the motor to stop it. The plug and harness is pretty hard to find, so great if you have it (two assemblies, half on the motor, and half with the transom box and solenoid.) No charging system.

[edit. believe kill switch was only on the manual model, not the factory electric start. sorry.]
 
Last edited:

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
No Title

There is no fuel lines here, nor do I have a tank. But I do understand all you all are saying. The magneto break is a great idea. I'm going to do that. Saucy photos of my new girl are now up for viewing. Yes there is a solenoid in the motor, and the wiring harness is ok. If it has a wiring harness for a key switch, would that also have a "kill" switch in the off position?
 

Attachments

  • photo235131.jpg
    photo235131.jpg
    219.1 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235133.jpg
    photo235133.jpg
    289.5 KB · Views: 3
  • photo235134.jpg
    photo235134.jpg
    340.8 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235135.jpg
    photo235135.jpg
    178.8 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235136.jpg
    photo235136.jpg
    211.9 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235137.jpg
    photo235137.jpg
    212 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235138.jpg
    photo235138.jpg
    190.9 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235139.jpg
    photo235139.jpg
    227.8 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235140.jpg
    photo235140.jpg
    259.2 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235141.jpg
    photo235141.jpg
    238.5 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235143.jpg
    photo235143.jpg
    201.8 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235144.jpg
    photo235144.jpg
    186 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235146.jpg
    photo235146.jpg
    249 KB · Views: 3
  • photo235147.jpg
    photo235147.jpg
    108.3 KB · Views: 3
  • photo235148.jpg
    photo235148.jpg
    128.9 KB · Views: 3
  • photo235150.jpg
    photo235150.jpg
    231.4 KB · Views: 3
  • photo235152.jpg
    photo235152.jpg
    178.7 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235153.jpg
    photo235153.jpg
    202.9 KB · Views: 4
  • photo235154.jpg
    photo235154.jpg
    179.4 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,412
The way the motor is set up now you need the pressure tank.---Not hard to find depending on where you are.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
manual start converted to electric. not sure what your harness looks like (no choke solenoid). might work fine, maybe with some tweaking.

ed. think I see a couple of black leads coming out from the ignition plate. Those would be for a kill switch -- can trace those and see how a PO wired them (both ground wires). Likely "M" posts on an ignition switch, if present -- the off position when the circuit is complete. Shorts the magneto.
 
Last edited:

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
Great I'll look for a pressure tank this weekend. I'm in Naples FL.

The choke is manual, and I will look at those leads from the IGN plate. Marine engine .com shows those leads as you say. I think the easiest thing for me to do is just get a key switch (if the wires are correct for that). Choke is missing the knob off of the front, that is the only thing missing. Going to build another engine stand as well. I posted an ad on AOMCI for a pressure tank, I'll keep my fingers crossed that it is near me if I get a bite.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
That is a manual start motor that somebody has added a starter to. The original stop button was in the hole that your cables are now passing through. Yes, you can use the two black wires to kill it. Just connect them to a switch. Or, you can stop it by simply turning the throttle grip toward "Slow" so far that it simply stalls.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
It's a good project. Very simple starter circuit wiring, and easy to make from scratch if your existing system isn't what you want.

I have a '57 that I converted to elec. start, and opted for a button starter. (key start wasn't available on the factory electric until '58 -- not that it really matters if doing a conversion anyhow.) Could do a starter button and kill switch -- lots of options.
 

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
No Title

Got the choke knob for 9 bucks in the mail. Looks like it was always there. The fuel tank is on it's way. Got it off ebay with lines and connections for 100. I have this, I don't know what to call it feeling again.....
 

Attachments

  • photo235498.jpg
    photo235498.jpg
    66 KB · Views: 0

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,826
100 bones for what should be a good tank, lines and connectors is not too bad on xbay.

Choke knob looks great.

I converted mine to fuel pump, using an existing tank. Easy on the pocket and runs good.

Looking forward to seeing yours run. They are fantastic motors.

I have most of everything to convert mine, just need to make the time to do it.

Nice work. ;)
 

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
No Title

The tank has arrived! Yea!!! How can I be sure the tank air plunger is working properly, and tank is holding pressure? I built a stand out of scrap lumber last night. Had to take my mom to the ER in the late afternoon because she fell at the nursing home. She's ok, but I had to do something to occupy my thoughts. It's not pretty, so I don't know if I want to show it off here.
 

Attachments

  • photo235680.jpg
    photo235680.jpg
    85.9 KB · Views: 0
  • photo235681.jpg
    photo235681.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo235682.jpg
    photo235682.jpg
    88.9 KB · Views: 0

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,412
It is NOT an air plunger at all.------Test this way !!------Close tank cap.------Plug tank onto the motor.----Pull recoil 20 times.-----Release cap and listen for a hissing noise.-------Or fill tank with fuel.---Operate plunger to pump fuel into the motor.----Start the motor.-----Motor will now pump air into the tank and fuel keeps flowing to the motor.
 
Last edited:

59 Fatty

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
260
No Title

The motor is not in running condition yet. I was hoping to test the tank away from the motor since that has not been checked out yet. I'll be looking into that this weekend. I do understand the tank plunger mechanism now, thank you. The coils may be bad, the impeller may need replacing, and the plug wires look weak. But I am going to connect the battery and crank it 20 times before I pull it that many times. lol.

I made this stand out of stuff in the garage, try not to laugh too hard.
 

Attachments

  • photo235687.jpg
    photo235687.jpg
    343.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo235688.jpg
    photo235688.jpg
    365.3 KB · Views: 0
  • photo235689.jpg
    photo235689.jpg
    134.4 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Nice stand!

Plunger is a fuel pump, like the bulb in a modern single line system. If the motor isn't ready for prime time yet, you could disconnect the lines from the motor (probably want to replace them with fresh lines anyway). Connect the tank as you normally would to run. Put a little gas in the tank and use the plunger to pump gas into a container -- tests the pump, but also cleans out the tank and hose. On the air side, you could rig a hand pump to get some air into the tank, then crack the cap a little like Racerone says (should hear a hiss) -- or pinch the line, put on a pressure gauge and see if it holds. Based on some info F_R provided in an earlier thread, there is not a lot of pressure supplied in normal operation (maybe 5 lbs), so don't overdo it. I don't think a MiTvac would work to test tank integrity because a check valve would interfere. (Maybe if it held a vacuum that way, you would know the tank was not leaking -- except through a bad check valve!)

Anyway, that might be a way of testing, prepping and generally tinkering with the tank before the motor is ready. I have an old motor connector end that I occasionally use to pump out tanks/lines.

Think you have a slightly earlier tank there. '57/'58 model would have a plastic plunger cap, I think. They work the same, and only some twit with too much time on his hands would mention a difference. If detailing the tank, I would just get the appropriate decals (script design for '57 and probably '58), and go from there.
 
Top