Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED
When you set the points, did you pull the flywheel or do it through the inspection window? If you pulled the flywheel, did you retorque the flywheel nut to the proper 40ft/lbs? Was the taper clean and dry? If all of this didnt happen you could have sheared the key knocking out the timing. While doing the points did you notice if the coils and condensors had been changed>?
Then after the carb clean did you dial in the carbs as mentioned>
I know I mentioned all this already but thought I would again as you didnt comment on it and it is all pertinent to the issues you are having.
Hi Chris,
Originally it had no spark, so I popped off the flywheel, used 400 grit paper on points, and spark came back....coils and condensors looked new. I did not know there was an inspection window so I did it manually by setting cam lobe to the arrow onto the points, but I did see an issue that one of the coils was rubbing the magnet on the flywheel, so I backed it up a few thousanths from the magnet, still has good spark on both cylinders last I checked in June, and I set the low/high mixing needles as you mentioned...The gap on the magneto to flywheel is probably about .015 now....when I did lawnmowers magnetos, I generally used clear microfische thin plastic between the coil and magnets to get them as close as possible without having too much gap. (a trick I learned long ago as feeler guages don't usually fit under there)
It was running very rough for the 45 seconds I had it running, and it was backfiring (popping) while in the 55gal drum. The flywheel key looked good, and the taper was clean. I'm pretty sure I retorqued to the 40# range, but when I get some time, I'll check for spark again first. Maybe while I was test-starting it, the mechanical timing advancer made an old wire snap off which connects to the points. I've seen that happen on my 1986 Force 50, I had spark across both, but after testing the boat in the water, the engine started to surge and finally the boat wouldn't go past 5 MPH, so I neglected to recheck for spark thinking it was fuel pump and reed plate related, and replaced all those parts in the Force, only to find nothing fixed my problem, so I back-tracked and checked for spark and seen it was only firing one one plug because of a corroded wire which I had to fix, soldered on a new round-lug connector. similar to the type they use on condensors. The one big mistake I did make on the 58 FastWin was use some starting fluid into the carbs (after I cleaned/soaked it 2 times for days in Berrymans)...but don't think I hurt the engine as it didn't run for more than a minute. Next time, I'll use some premix (24:1 I think) in WINDEX bottle instead of using starting fluid.
I've only had to tinker with a Force 50 this summer, and never had a boat......before this. I'm glad some people are already willing to look at this thing if it was closer to all you fellows.
BTW, it took me over 2 years to restore a 1970 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H-1 "CDI and Carb issues" wound up getting 7,500.00 for the bike a few months ago. My Dad was the original owner, so I wanted to fix it, and then it was dangerously fast in the powerband popping wheelies, and dangerous driving it, so that's why I sold it. Was a beautiful vintage bike and I miss it already.
Anyway, I'm reading all the other replies also, but I don't want to over-post to each and every one I view.
TomHath, yes, I should indeed re-check for spark. Sometimes I overlook the simple stuff, I can say it did pump a little water from exhaust hole, but once I get it running, then I'll probably replace the impeller, I'm sure it's all original just by noticing all the paint is still on 99% of all the screws on this controversial oldie, but goodie! (Hopefully wont break any bolts when I get that far into the project)
MercDawg, now I recall I did press the black priming plunger on the tank "while connected to engine" and then I started to feel resistance, now making me think it does hold pressure, but I will release the tank cap and listen for air, for all I know, the internal primer pump within the tank might have a "check-valve" in it to prevent the gas from draining in reverse direction when the needle seat closes to prevent flooding issues. Being we still have and ice here, not sure when I can mount it into a drum of water again.
64osby, thanks for the reply also!! Happy New Year, and to all others!! Maybe you'll wind up with this engine if your really jealous of it
