1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

[PhilfromOhio]

I have a question for anyone with experience with the oldies? I have a repair manual, it is a good one, very detailed, and a parts manual, also very detailed. However it, it being both the repair and parts manual, only show how and what to gap the points at .20, no problem, ...How do I get that plate off the pulley? there are three small screws and that removes the cover, and there is a small window that you can see the points, but you cant remove them, it's too small, is this the point where i need a flywheel puller? I unbolted the nut ontop, but the cap wont budge? HELP aaahhhh!!
I had great spark and it was starting every pull, pull because the starter only spins, the worm gear isnt pushing the bendex up to the main gear? another problem to fix, But now, no spark, just enough to get it to mumble. I will be putting new element inside the dizzy cap, the plugs are new, and the wires are new? Everytime I squeeze a bit of light sandpaper over the points it fires up, but not for long? I really need to replace the points, just cant access them?

 

[cougar1985]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

yes you need a puller.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

That pulley is a slip fit on a straight shaft. Should slide off easy. But if it is corroded, may require a puller.

Try putting the nut on flush with the top of the shaft, pry lightly upward on the pulley and LIGHTLY tap the nut with a hammer. It might unstick and come right off.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Hey Thanks guys! I'll go out to the barn right now and give that a try. I'll let ya know what happens

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Phil, Pay special attention to how the wire between the points is routed. It cannot touch the moving cam, or it will eventually short out and kill the spark.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Hey Guys, I was able to get the pulley off by flushing the nut, and
lightly tapping with a hammer. I sprayed a little wd40 on the threads, let it set for a couple of hours and started tapping, and it lifted right up. Thanks again, but now I have another problem. And I know you fellas out there are all grinning, dont say it!!! hahaha.... I put the new points on, making sure that
#1 cylinder was tdc, all the timing marke are lined up both on the pulley, main flywheen & linkage. I set the points, turned the cam a bit and verrified a nice spark between the breakers, put it all back together and.....BOOM!!! thought I blew the roof off the bran, wife came out to check on me it was so loud, scared the ^%$# out of me... So... gents, I followed the manual, what am I doing wrong? I know it has to be something to do with the way those dual points are set up?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Adjust the gap on each set of points individually. Adjust them so they are open .020" at their widest opening. Forget about the belt and all that stuff while setting the points.

Then put the pulley on and install the belt, properly timed.

Make sure the spark plug wires are on the right plugs. That'll make a loud backfire too.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Rgr that.. I just came back in after a cup of jo! I needed to settle the nerves and make sure none of my teeth fell out on that last boom ...Anyway.
I just took the pulley cover off again, went through the gap again..duh..I used the .20 not the .020..nice. Anyway, i re-checked the gap, to .020, now, I quit worrying about the belt and timing marks, just focused on the gap settings. Then I started the rebuild. I made sure to allign the main flywheel time mark to its assigned position according to the book, then I made sure that the marks on the top part of the pulley and the bottom part were ligned up, also there is a mark on the fast/slow idler linkage that is also properly ligned up, piston one is TDC, all should be good. I will go throught the manual again and double check my work before I try it again. I will also double check the plug wires but they should be okay, they are just long enough to reach their respective plugs. I also put new brush in the Distributor, checked the rotor, it's really clean and so are the points in the distrib cap. Well, I will try again in the morning, its getting late, dont want to wake the neighbors... BOOM.... here come the men in blue..hahaha

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Also, those points according to the manual are supposed to open every 90degrees? So when one is opening the other is closing and so on? So what I did was make sure that when one set was opening and at its apogee or apex, furthest distance apart at .020 the other was completely closed and I did the same to the other set? does this sound like the correct procedure?

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Hey F R & Chris1956.. I just noticed in the manual they show two black wires on the exterrior of the distributor/coil cover. One comes from inside the coil and the other comes from the wire-harness. The short one is listed as "primary lead to breakers" and the long one that is missing is ground lead to switch. So, its back out to the barn, cup o coffee, ground wire, shrink wrap, solidering gun, and wire fittings. I am curious if this could have been a firing problem? It was running last week with out it on, but then again I am pull starting it, and I would assume the lead to switch would affect the electric starter? any thoughts on this? Thanks to all of you who have responded, If I forgot to add you to the ...To: list you guys are all a real big help, and I really like getting your advise...

 

[F_R]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

The one going to the switch is the kill wire to stop the motor when the key is turned off.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Yes. There is power in knowledge. I just read throught the entire ignition section, well most of it anyway. That wire is something I will need anyway
once I put the harness and switch back on, so its out to the shop... Thanks and I'll post the latest BOOM report in the morning....

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Hey F R & Chris1956.... Spen a couple hours today making new plug wires, re-checked the gaps, pulled her into the drive with a barrel full of water and to my surprise it fired up first pull. Ideled a bit rough for the first 4 or 5 minutes, but once it was warmed up it ran and idled nicely. There sure is a lot of dark blackish/grey goo ooozing out of those little pin holes by the intake vent. I know they are there for a reason, that must be it? What an unsightly bit of nasty though. But hey.. motor is running GREAT!!! Now since I dont have it wired to the ignition, what is the best way to kill it other than chocking it out. I'll have the kill switch wire hooked up next week when I do the wiring.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

F R & Chris1956: Question on the (58) Fat Fifty
I have rebuilt the wire harness acording to the manual, proper
color and code/wire guage, insulated and strung all wires stem to stern
in heavy duty 3M shrink wrap. Now the question I have is...There are an additional two wires (black) that are "knife fitted" together in the junction
box, I used the same type of connections as listed by the manual and
manufacturer, however, I soildered(sp) any and all connections as well as shrunk wrap, I traced them to the ignition kill assy. I have decided to install a separate kill switch as I cant seem to figure out where they go on the ignition switch. I purchased the three position switch (on, off, run). When I have power comming from the battery to the (B) connector and turn the key, the (S) position has power, obviously this goes to the starter, however there are two more positions on the starter switch, one is hot when key is on and the other is cold all the time? So, I have decided I would just install a kill switch. I have one wired in to the two black wires and it seems to work just fine killing the engine? What are your thoughts?

Thanks....
PhilfromOhio

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

F R & Chris1956.
Hey guys that fat fifty is running great, no lower unit leaks and the dark
grey ooze that was seeping out has really cleared up. I am wondering if maybe because the engine had been sitting since the early 1980's it just needed to be run for a spell? I made a couple of small vids to post, and pics, but for some reason they are not up-loading?

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty?

Glad to hear it is running.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty? & Chris1956?

Re: 1958 Johnson V4S-10 Fat Fifty? & Chris1956?

Chris1956.
Got a question for you regarding my fat-fifty. Well, today was her first day
in the water after 20+ years of sitting. It was a bit sluggish, I had a friend
drive as I sat in back and adjusted the slow & fast needles. I had it running
like an absolute dream, and running really quiet. After an hour or so, It started running real sluggish. I could wind her out sitting in idle, but once I engage forward or reverse, just real sluggish. Here are some specifics.
1) It started just after I switched fuel tanks. I have heard that the plastic tanks are not very good? Better to use metal?
2) I tore apart the carb and found a single grain of sand stuck on the left slow needle.
3) It has brand new plugs, rotor, plug wires, and points gapped properly.
4) Fuel pump re-built and re-checked this afternoon after sluggish run?
5) The fuel was mixed 24/1, with Sea-foam additive, about 2 cups added to 6-gal.
Is there anything you can think of that I may have missed? I have read the manual over and cant seem to find anything else other than that grain of sand? Would it make that much of a difference? It was idleing and throtleing up in neutral real nice, like I said, just once it was put into gear? What are your thoughts?

 

[PhilfromOhio]

It’s been a while since my last post. 2010 when I still had my littl Sears Elgin with the fat fifty, Ive gone through a growth spurt. Went from a 28’ Scottiecraft with twin mercies 140’s to a 32’ Uniflite Flybridge Cruiser 1969, twin 318’s which I have had tore down past the heads. I had them machined, and replaced both engines manifolds and risers, exhaust hoses and mufflers. Replaced the old carburetors with carter AFB, new electronic ignitions, new heat exchangers. Loads of work including all new wiring from helm to all components. New ignition systems and complete house battery systems. It’s an addiction so if anyone knows where I can get good 318 parts please let me know.

 

[oldboat1]

Might try TrojanBoats.net.