1959-1963 Seahorse 10 issues

[Cdubb2010]

Hi all,

Got a seahorse 10 that is having some carb issues. It seems to be flooding out and has a fuel leak some where around the engine. I got it to run well for a few minutes off the choke then it stalled out and only sputtered one more time after many pulls before my arm cramped up. I've been using this link http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_QD.htm for my info but I need some more info on the carb. It has been rebuilt recently but by the last owner and in thinking they did something incorrectly. Does anyone know where I can find a rebuild guide and kit?

 

[oldboat1]

Knowing the carb was recently rebuilt, however poorly, I would check first for spark (need a spark tester). I would get my hands on a compression tester as well, and check compression numbers. Find your model number, and get clear about what motor you have -- can order parts here on iBoats.

 

[oldboat1]

find a model number?

 

[Cdubb2010]

find a model number?

No sir, the tag on the transom mount is gone, only the rivets remain. It's white in color that's how I've narrowed down the years to 59-63. Any other ways to get a better ID on it with no tag? I haven't run a compression test on it yet but I pulled the plug and grounded it out to observe the spark it, looked bright and strong visually. Fuel in the glass bowl looks good and clean, no sediment or moisture that I can tell. I have to emphasize it ran fine while it did, once fuel got up to the carb it ran like a top and started easy. Then once it stalled we noticed gas in the bottom cover.

 

[oldboat1]

might post a pic (with and without the hood) -- might get it identified, and maybe some other observations.

Gas leaking into the pan, you mean? Think your glass bowl and sintered filter is below the carb bowl (will stand corrected if that's not right). Sounds like the bowl may be leaking -- bowl gasket, maybe? If the gasket is bad, the carb won't draw correctly, so could get stalling along with leaking.

 

[Cdubb2010]

The hood is incorrect on this motor or at least the decals are I believe. The clamp that hooks to the pan to hold the hood on reads 10hp while the decals on the hood say 5 1/2hp, I am inclined to think that the decal on the clamp is correct. It was advertised to me as a 5 1/2 hp motor. Upon futher looking I still think it's a 10hp. I will post pics as soon as I can but I have to wonder if the last owner though it was a 5 1/2 could have that effected the carb rebuild? Would the kits be differnt enough to cause issues?

 

[lindy46]

Carb kits should be the same. Does your motor have a small cover on the leg to disconnect the shift rod? If it does, it's a 10hp. A 5.5hp doesn't have the shift rod cover on the leg.

 

[Cdubb2010]

Here's some photos, sorry for the delay had to build the stand first haha

 

[Cdubb2010]

Here's a video of it running, I'm thinking the water pump isn't pushing enough water. Any thoughts?

 

[Cdubb2010]

Also I am perplexed it didn't leak a drop of gas anywhere and it started on the first pull all but one time. I can't understand where all that fuel came from, I'm guessing it flooded badly but at the same rate my carb adjustments were nearly the same today as it was when it hemorrhaged fuel. I don't know what the variable is...

 

[lindy46]

That's a 5.5hp - you can tell by the air silencer and the lack of shift rod connection port on the leg. Water flow doesn't look too bad, considering you don't have it too deep in the bucket. Looks like a 1959 model.

 

[oldboat1]

^^agree. Think the location of the filter bowl on the side of the engine rather than under the carb also indicates it's a 5hp. That earlier leak might have been a sticking float or an issue with the float valve(?) Could have been an issue with the filter and bowl assembly.

Motor seems to run well -- pumping OK, imo (might add more water to that tub, like lindy says).

 

[Cdubb2010]

No Title

Well I'm glad to hear the water flow looks ok. My fears have been confirmed that the gear box is leaking though. How big of a job is resealing it?

 

[lindy46]

Does that seem to be leaking around the propshaft? It's hard to tell from the photo. Are you sure it's not just exhaust residue? If it is leaking around the propshaft, you'll have to drop the lower unit and separate the gearcase halves to fix it properly. I have changed the propshaft seal without removing the lower unit, but it's not the best way to do the job. And once the L/U is off, you can replace all the seals (get a seal kit) , and the water pump impeller. Unfortunately, to drop the lower unit on that motor, you have to remove the powerhead, as the shift rod connector is under the powerhead. Not too bad a job - there are 7 bolts which hold the powerhead on. If you go this route, I'd also get a new powerhead gasket, as they usually don't survive after removing the powerhead. Here's a link to the entire procedure:
https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=...023&p=dropping+lower+unit+on+a+5.5hp+evinrude

 

[oldboat1]

track in the pic looks like it might be propshaft. Scoop up a little on your finger and give it the smell test. Gear oil has a sulphur smell.

 

[Cdubb2010]

No Title

Yes it is with out a doubt gear lube. I know that awful smell all too well from my time as a racer. Sounds like dropping the lower is in order. Any guess on the model number so I can get gaskets ordered? And a video that popped up from that link Lindy was very helpful, thank you. Also what is this part called? It's leaking like a sieve when unhooked from the motor.

 

[lindy46]

That motor is a CD-16. That fuel connector has little o-rings underneath the spring-loaded plungers - they're most likely shot. They get hard over the years and crack. I use a small finishing nail to depress the plunger, then use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. Use the opposite procedure to install the new ones. Others on here may have better/more sophisticated methods, but that has always worked for me. Seal kit available right here at Iboats:
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=452606666
O-rings are part number 0301824

 

[Cdubb2010]

Thanks again Lindy, shipping is cheap too! I can't get that number on the o-rings to pop up here on iBoats, is that where you referenced the number?

 

[Cdubb2010]

Boy I'm having a hell of a time getting my motor to pop up under a parts search on here. What's the trick? CD-16 doesn't return anything, I see CD-25 and the oldest year I can select under Johnson is 1968

 

[oldboat1]

online at marine engine. but you didn't hear it from me (competing site). The BRP parts listings start at '68 as well.