1960 40hp Super Seahorse

willinokc

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Sep 13, 2009
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Before the questions I just want to say a million thanks to all the folks that contribute to this forum. A month ago I would have never thought I could have got this old motor going again but with this forum and a lot of stubbornness she's back alive.

Now, that said, I'm still having some troubles. I've changed coils, condensors, points, plugs, plug wires, impellor. Rebuild carb meaning taken apart, soaked in cleaner, put back together with new float, gaskets, etc. After a lot of adjusting I've got the low speed about 2.5 turns out and the high speed about 1/2 turn out and that seems to be a pretty good idle but doesn't like going too low. Got her out on the lake today and in neutral at the bank sounds pretty good. Runs as long as I want it to w/o problem. Under load though (on the lake in gear) it acts like it starts overheating/bogging down after a while, then have to give a bit of cool down time before starting up again. Hard starting. Knew there was something wrong so cut the trip short pretty quick and got her back on the trailer.

Does it sound like the lower unit is binding? I haven't been able to get the bottom drain plug out, top plug comes out but no washer. Any ideas on how to break the lower plug loose?

Any other ideas on what could be the problem? Any suggestions are helpful, you guys have been right on the money with other problems.
 

1946Zephyr

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Oct 21, 2008
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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Low speed should be only 1 1/2 turns out and the high speed should be 3/4 to one turn out. As far as your lower drain plug goes, try an impact driver or a punch and hammer to remove it. Position the tip of the punch in the end of the slot at an angle and give it a tap, with a hammer. There have been times I've had to do that to get those out. I would definately put new washers in, if they're missing.:cool:
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Did you replace the fuel lines? Did you blow out all the small carb orifices to make sure they were clear? Remove the little welch plug on top and clean holes underneath?
 

R.Johnson

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Sep 24, 2003
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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

The turn's out on the high spped jet is just a starting figure. The needle should be adjusted under full load. You may well be running lean. 21/2 turn's out on the low speed sound's like an air leak from somewhere. Carb, crank seal, case seal, etc.
 

willinokc

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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Did you replace the fuel lines? Did you blow out all the small carb orifices to make sure they were clear? Remove the little welch plug on top and clean holes underneath?

Did remove both plugs, soaked in cleaner and blew out with compressed air. Did not change fuel lines. Guess that's my next step. Can I get replacement lines at the automotive store or is there something I should watch out for?

This did make me think, I did see some air bubbline in the clear feed line to the fuel pump. Could this be causing the bogging down/stalling?
 

lindy46

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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Clear line is not the proper gas line. Just get alcohol resistant gas line at an auto parts store. What kind of line from pump to carb? Sometimes old gas lines deteriorate and throw chunks of the inner wall into the carb. Also you say it acts like it's overheating. Is it pumping water ok? If it's getting too hot, it could have those symptoms. If you hadn't changed the coils I would suspect poor/no spark on one cylinder. Also could be an air leak, as was previously suggested.
 

willinokc

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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Clear line is not the proper gas line. Just get alcohol resistant gas line at an auto parts store. What kind of line from pump to carb? Sometimes old gas lines deteriorate and throw chunks of the inner wall into the carb. Also you say it acts like it's overheating. Is it pumping water ok? If it's getting too hot, it could have those symptoms. If you hadn't changed the coils I would suspect poor/no spark on one cylinder. Also could be an air leak, as was previously suggested.

Line from pump to carb is the black rubber type. Sounds like I need to change all since some are pretty solid w/o give. Also might pull thermostat and check to make sure that's not prob. If I remember from other posts, it should open at 160 degrees, correct?
 

R.Johnson

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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Let's stay where we are. Have you adjusted the carb properly? You are dealing with a 40 HP engine, not a lawn mower. Ign. Fuel, compression.
 

coolguy147

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Jul 14, 2008
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2,817
Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Line from pump to carb is the black rubber type. Sounds like I need to change all since some are pretty solid w/o give. Also might pull thermostat and check to make sure that's not prob. If I remember from other posts, it should open at 160 degrees, correct?

aroudn 143 degrees farenheight i believe
 

willinokc

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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Let's stay where we are. Have you adjusted the carb properly? You are dealing with a 40 HP engine, not a lawn mower. Ign. Fuel, compression.

I've put the high speed and low speed the suggested turns out from closed(low 1 1/2, high 3/4) as suggested but engine doesn't maintain idle until I'm at the point I've said earlier in the post. It acts like it's trying but won't run until about 2 turns out on the low speed and idles very rough/dies until I go a bit further out.
 

chucko

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Oct 21, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1960 40hp Super Seahorse

Are the correct packings on the needles? Is the float chamber to carb body boss gasket ( the round one in the center) in good shape, and in place? You got an air leak somewhere.
 
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