1960 Fisherman 5.5 - Ignition Issue/Questions After New Parts

[NOTAMs79]

Hello, all!

I recently replaced all ignition parts (coils, condensers, points, wires, etc.) on my 1960 5.5 Fisherman. Now, it won't start. I've read and viewed as much as I can about setting the points. I'm about to get a spark tester. In the interim I thought I'd share what I've noticed and see if folks here can help.

Here's what I've noticed:

- The new points have thicker electrode areas.
- I cannot fully get the .020 gap, when using the "Top" mark on the cam.
- If I use the flywheel method (placing the spark notch on the flywheel between the two lines on the ignition plate for ohm testing) the points are nowhere near the "top" mark on the cam, or the cam itself, so the points are not being pushed by the cam towards open. Therefor I can't move the point bracket away from the points. Please see picture (URL, below) of flywheel mark and two lines for an idea of how far "top" on the cam is off. The image was taken with the the top cylinder's point set at "top" on the cam.

Flywheel and Ignition Plate Image:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11kNeIN6qFelD3jWaSmEWqA_Kb1ONIzIm/view?usp=sharing

What am I missing?

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Sincerely,
-Matt

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,....... Welcome Aboard,...... What motor are ya workin' on,..?? certainly not an I/O,......

 

[NOTAMs79]

Bondo, thank you for the welcome. My sincere apology, I shouldn't have posted this here. I'll be moving it to the Johnson and Evenrude Outboard area. Thank you for calling my attention to this.

Sincerely,
-Matt

 

[NOTAMs79]

Hello, all!

I recently replaced all ignition parts (coils, condensers, points, wires, etc.) on my 1960 5.5 Fisherman. Now, it won't start. I've read and viewed as much as I can about setting the points. I'm about to get a spark tester. In the interim I thought I'd share what I've noticed and see if folks here can help.

Here's what I've noticed:

- The new points have thicker electrode areas.
- I cannot fully get the .020 gap, when using the "Top" mark on the cam.
- If I use the flywheel method (placing the spark notch on the flywheel between the two lines on the ignition plate for ohm testing) the points are nowhere near the "top" mark on the cam, so the points are not being pushed by the cam towards open. Therefor I can't move the point bracket away from the points. Please see picture (URL, below) of the flywheel mark and two lines for an idea of how far "top" on the cam is off. The image was taken with the the top cylinder's point set at "top" on the cam.

Flywheel and Ignition Plate Image:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11kN...ew?usp=sharing

What am I missing?

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Sincerely,
-Matt

 

[racerone]

When the timing mark on the flywheel is between the 2 vertical lines the points START TO OPEN.------The gap is not 0.020" at that event.

 

[oldboat1]

Set each set of points when the rub arm is at the highest point of the cam (points will be open widest). Set to .020 as you indicated.

 

[NOTAMs79]

When the timing mark on the flywheel is between the 2 vertical lines the points START TO OPEN.------The gap is not 0.020" at that event.

Thank you for that racerone! I didn't realize this.

I was trying to use the method of opening the points to 0ohm when the mark is between the two vertical lines, as I've seen so many others do in videos, but because the point shoe isn't actually hitting the cam, it can't be done. How are others doing this? I feel like I'm missing more.

Thanks!

 

[southkogs]

NOTAMs79 - I got ya'.

Welcome aboard.

 

[racerone]

Yes----Take more time to study this method of using an ohmeter to set the points.-----Has worked for me since about 1968 or so.

 

[F_R]

Back to simple basics----Set the points to be open 0.020" at their widest opening. If it is impossible to achieve, the points are defective.

 

[lindy46]

The high point usually coincides with the flywheel key. "top" mark merely indicates the top side of the cam so you don't install it upside down.

 

[iggyw1]

NOTAMs79, Maybe the thicker electrodes on the new points are an indication the points are the wrong ones for the motor (unless the old ones burnt down that much of a difference). If the old ones are not burnt and gone, clean & shine them up and try them again, maybe she will start for you.

 

[NOTAMs79]

NOTAMs79, Maybe the thicker electrodes on the new points are an indication the points are the wrong ones for the motor (unless the old ones burnt down that much of a difference). If the old ones are not burnt and gone, clean & shine them up and try them again, maybe she will start for you.

iggyw1 - You may be onto something! The new points (correct part number) look like: SingleElectrode/ThinCopper/SingleElectrode. The old points look like: SingleElectrode(NoThinCopper/NoElectrode), so the old ones are half the thickness.

What do you recommending cleaning the old points with?

 

[iggyw1]

I used to use the flint on a book of matches is all. A box of matches has a stiffer flint, but still mild enough for the points to clean them and not take anything of the needed electrode material off.

 

[NOTAMs79]

I used to use the flint on a book of matches is all. A box of matches has a stiffer flint, but still mild enough for the points to clean them and not take anything of the needed electrode material off.

No glory.

I replaced only the pivoting point components and it seemed to want to start more, but only in "Fast." Then I put all the original point components back on. Now, nothing.

I'll keep playing with it and try cleaning them with a box of matches.

For reference, I've attached an image comparing the new point bracket (left) with the original one (right). Because the contacts are so different - I'm questioning if the other components are wrong too (coils, condensers, etc.).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-PD...ew?usp=sharing

 

[Geoffrey Graydon]

Hello, all!

I recently replaced all ignition parts (coils, condensers, points, wires, etc.) on my 1960 5.5 Fisherman. Now, it won't start. I've read and viewed as much as I can about setting the points. I'm about to get a spark tester. In the interim I thought I'd share what I've noticed and see if folks here can help.

Here's what I've noticed:

- The new points have thicker electrode areas.
- I cannot fully get the .020 gap, when using the "Top" mark on the cam.
- If I use the flywheel method (placing the spark notch on the flywheel between the two lines on the ignition plate for ohm testing) the points are nowhere near the "top" mark on the cam, or the cam itself, so the points are not being pushed by the cam towards open. Therefor I can't move the point bracket away from the points. Please see picture (URL, below) of flywheel mark and two lines for an idea of how far "top" on the cam is off. The image was taken with the the top cylinder's point set at "top" on the cam.

Flywheel and Ignition Plate Image:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11kNeIN6qFelD3jWaSmEWqA_Kb1ONIzIm/view?usp=sharing

What am I missing?

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Sincerely,
-Matt

For information,the word TOP on the cam merely indicates the cam is the right way up,it is not a timing mark.