1962 Evinrude 18 only runs at 1/2 choke high idle

[Jdunham]

Hello,
I have one that has me stumped
1962 Evinrude fastwin 18

Only runs at 1/2 choke and dies if I try to idle down below "start".
Smokes much more than my other motors.

Compression is OK, 110/118
Spark is good. My tester is "missing" right now but I got both to jump 3/8" on a test lead.
Fuel is mixed 24:1
Throttle cam is synchronized with the armature plate.
The bulb does get firm so the float is doing its job
Fuel pump is working

When running like this there is fuel visibly puddling in the barrel of the carb. Not enough to dribble out the front but more than I think there should be.
I have pulled and disassembled the carb. Except for some very gross clear jelly in the bowl, it was spotless but I blew it all out anyway.

What am I missing? I will pull the carb again tonight for another look regardless.
Is this a timing issue? Sheared flywheel key?

 

[racerone]

A sheared flywheel key on that magneto would result in ---NO SPARK.-----Have you adjusted the carburetor slow and high speed mixture screws ?-----Nozzle gasket in place ?-----How did the motor run for you last year ?

 

[Jdunham]

I picked this motor up this spring at an estate sale. Previous owner has passed so any motor history is lost.
After putting the carb back together, I adjusted both jets per my manual for initial tuning. 1.5 turns for the slow speed and .75 turns for the high. I tried opening them both up slowly, far more than should have been required and did not see a change in how it was running.
what is the nozzle gasket?

 

[oldboat1]

http://ww2.iboats.com/Carburetor-Group/dm/cart_id.120163772--session_id.282738947--view_id.1547795

#57. Disassemble everything but the linkages, and soak carb top and bottom in solvent of your choice. You can't get stuff like that gel by blowing it out. After initial settings, rotate needles clockwise (leaner) in small increments until motor acts up, then back out 1/4 and see what you have. The h.s. final setting needs to be set underway on the boat.

 

[Jdunham]

Thanks for identifying the gasket. It is in place.
i will take it apart again and soak it.

 

[Jdunham]

Hah!
no welsh plug on the top of the carb. I wondered why that hole was there

 

[F_R]

That gross jelly is water. Are you sure there isn't more in the gas tank?

 

[oldboat1]

good find (missing welch plug). While it's out, do the soaking and cleaning (affects idling) -- new one in a carb kit. Just tap in place when ready. I would test fit the idle needle too while the cap is out. Can look through the opening and make sure the needle fits properly.

 

[Jdunham]

The tank was fine. Some oil but nothing bad. Absolutely no rust. I gave it a slosh with strait gas, dumped it and then refilled with new mix. Flushed the lines before hookup too.

i think someone put in a carb kit, forgot the plug and never got it to run and then gave up
there was no gunk anywhere except the bowl. Everything was bright and clean.

i made a new plug from some al sheet, a ball peen and a block of wood. Very tiny bead of sealant before i knocked it in as i am sure it wasnt a perfect fit.
It made all the difference. I cant Finish tuning until i get out on the water but it seems ok.

Because it seemed to want to idle in a high throttle position (just below start), i tried pulling the plug wires off to verify i was running on both cylinders.
I dont mean to suggest it was struggling, it was running fine at very low rpm, just that i was missing a lot of throttle range and was worried about top end.
When i pull the top Wire it quits right away, when i pull the bottom it sputters for a couple of revs and then quits. I think i had higher compression on top when i tested.
maybe I just haven't paid enough attention to the throttle position before and its fine the way it is?

 

[oldboat1]

Think I would try tweaking the needles, but sounds from you description like it might be ready to go. Should put in a fresh impeller before running, and check operating temps at the top of the head.

If it has a access hole on top of the flywheel, check for cracks in the coil coatings -- replace if any cracks. I like to use some electrical spray on the points and condensers -- can adjust points from the access hole as well. Will need a harmonic balance puller to pull the flywheel to replace any magneto parts.

 

[Jdunham]

I checked the impeller. It has no wear and is nice and soft So im going to run it. Also suggests someone did a tune up and could Not make it run.
It needs the lower unit flushed. I drained the old stuff out, it was VERY thick and black. Filled with 50/50 lube and marvel mystery oil. Now that i have had it running in the tank for a while ill change it again with strait lower unit oil. Ill probably have to do it a third time before its clear.
i think this motor has been sitting for a few years.
i will look for the hole In the flywheel but i thought they dropped that feature due to cracking. Not sure what year that happened.
with good spark on both im inclined to leave it alone.
i have a puller if needed.
what should i read for head temp? Best i can do is an IR thermometer

 

[oldboat1]

IR thermometer is a handy tool. Look for operating temps between 120-140F at the top of the head. 160F is too hot.