Re: 1962 evinrude sportwin 10 hp carburetor clogged?
RaginCajun, you have a very old but very good motor there. So, you want to learn how to fix it yourself.....cool!!! Those motor are not hard to work on. Its a nervy when your starting out but once you learn a couple things then it will get easier and easier.
Iboats forum and another forum called AOMCI (Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc) are probably the two best forum to get your advice from. There is a wealth of knowledge on both forums regarding your motor!!!
Here are couple of links to help you out!!
Electronic parts diagram for your motor!!
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/278378/27837800001.htm
A link to a good read about your motor!!
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/johnson_QD.htm
So, I am going to give you some pointers on how to go about evaluating your motor in a systematic way and help you figure out what question to ask, so that a knowledgeable member can assist you.
Here is some guidance that will help you evaluate your motor and help us help you!
Now you want to use a systematic approach to assess your engine's problem. Sure, it maybe just needing a carb kit and cleaning and your on your way. But if you a systematic approach to evaluating a motor then you become more efficient than you just guessing and changing out parts.
You will see a lot of experience guys ask about compression, spark and fuel. (They are using a systematic approach to diagnosing an engine problem or problems....in this order)
C= compression ( if your compression is low are uneven between cylinders >10% then others checks don't matter until the that is resolved) Low compression will cause your motor not run or run very poorly.
S= Spark (if your have problems with your ignition then you can have the cleanest carb and great fuel delivery but it will run bad or not at all)
F= Fuel (if your carbs are not clean and fast/slow idle needle are not set right then it will run but like crap. If you have it set too lean then you run the risk of poor fuel/oil delivery and damage your pistons and cylinders then you run into the problem of C (poor compression from damage).
For your motor to run and run well (this a general statement) all three of above categories need to be fulfilled.
So it is advisable to get a manual for your motor. Excellent resource, specifications, and diagrams.
How to check compression: (remember to remove both spark plugs) You can get a compression guage for about $10 to 12 dollar at harbor freight or auto zone) auto zone will let you borrow one with a refundable deposit)
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=391323
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I (gives you visual)
How to check for spark.(with a spark checker) about $6 at autozone (or similar store)...harbor freight store. You will also need a feeler guage to gap your spark plugs to 0.030 (feeler gauge is about $3 to 4 dollars) Just seeing if there is spark at the end the plugs is not enough. Spark tester lets you assess the quality of the spark. A spark that can not make at least a 1/4 jump lets you know that there is a problem with the coil, points, condenser or even worn or compromised spark plug wire.
- adjust the spark test to about 5/16 inches or so. It should be a good strong blue spark. (don't forget to ground the tester to the motor)
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY (general visual)
Carburetor adjustments
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352
Carburetor cleaning instructions
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013
So get some compression numbers and check your spark, then if those are ok then you can tackle the fuel system!!!
Keep us informed!! Welcome to the addiction......lol
