1963 16' Sea King being brought back to life....hopefully

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
I just recently picked up a 1963 Sea King that needs a little bit of love. Its been parked under a tree for the last 6 months or so and neglected the last 5 years from what I have been told. I picked the boat up last Saturday and started work as soon as I got home. I checked compression and came in at 85psi per hole on a 1962 Johnson 28hp. The carb came off and got a good cleaning and surprisingly was in very good shape, a rebuild kit went in and it went back on. I did a quick test fire to see what would happen, it turned over immediately (that was a sigh of relief). The previous owner had attempted to put in an ignition and in doing so, ripped out the stop button and put in a start button, and took off one of the wires coming from the magneto. Thanks to iboats and a very helpful user here I was able to figure out what should be there and what was missing. I'm not sure what would cause someone to want to do that but I will be fixing all that down the road.

My main focus is the stringers, deck and interior first. I ripped out the existing deck and the thousands of leaves, bugs and cockroaches. Once I got that out I got to the foam which was in good shape and cleaned up very well. All the stringers were in good shape and required very minimal work. I picked up some 3/4 plywood for the new deck and cut it all to size and test fitted. It will be coming back out shortly to get some resin and mat. This is my first attempt with fiberglassing so any tips will be appreciated! This is where I stand right now, I have the plans for the interior drawn up and all measurements done with a material list made for everything I will need to get it done.

The one area I haven't figured out how to build yet is going to be the bench seat that I am going to put up front. Anyone have plans or directions on how to build a sturdy bench seat?

Picking up the boat from its leafy grave


The drive home cleared out a good portion of the leaves that we're on top of the deck.


Stringers and foam once the deck was removed


Foam and stringers removed, took a lot of water and air to get all the leaves and dirt to one area so I could clean it up. Biggest cockroaches I've ever seen in my life


Hull, foam and stringers cleaned up and put back in. First piece of deck is cut and fitted. I took the opportunity while everything was out to paint the interior sides and aluminum trim around the boat. Looks 1000x better with just this one small improvement


Forward deck fitted in place, still have to figure out what I am going to do deck wise underneath the front section, any ideas?


Trying to decide if I want the patina look and just have it cleared or if I am going to have the whole boat painted


I love the original wrap around tall windshield that is on these but I realize it will be next to impossible to find out, anyone have any tips on how/who to build a custom windshield?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Welcome to iBoats!
Anything below 100 psi per cylinder is not very good on a 2 stroke Outboard. You might not want to invest to much on that old motor.

Here's an article on building your own Windshield..

https://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webl...ndshield1.html

And another one

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...or-an-old-boat

I'd also suspect for that size boat you'll be wanting a bigger motor. Somewhere around a 40 to 50 hp would be more appropriate. You're also gunna want to seal that plywood both on the bottom and the top if you want it to last for any length of time. Epoxy seams to be the most commonly used method here on the forum but there are other options.
 
Last edited:

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
I've heard quite a few conflicting opinions on compression for this engine. Some say it has to be 100+ and others say 70+ as long as you're within your 10% of each other. Either way, I've got another engine I'm picking up this weekend that I can use if I need to. I'm not too concerned about the engine side of it, parts are cheap for it. Thanks for the windshield link!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,116
On my computer the plywood you used for the deck appears to have a greenish color. Its not pressure treated is it?
 

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
In prone to agree. I don't think a 28hp will be enough, I just picked up a 40hp that I think can be rebuilt so I'll look into throwing that on. I am planning on using resin and mat, that should seal it properly?

And no it is marine grade
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
I'm finicky about everything has to be so so. And with that stated, I'd certainly refurbish the entire hull to make it look like new with a quality paint job inside and outside as well. But that is just me and by no means critical of what you decide... Nice lines on that boat though... JMHO!
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,276
As for your bench seat it could be as simple as a plywood box base with a hinged seat bottom and backrest. Looks like a sturdy old hull and the 28hp would move it alright though I agree that a 40-55hp 2 cylinder would be better.
Which model 40 are you looking at?
 

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
I'm finicky about everything has to be so so. And with that stated, I'd certainly refurbish the entire hull to make it look like new with a quality paint job inside and outside as well. But that is just me and by no means critical of what you decide... Nice lines on that boat though... JMHO!

The inside is just about done with paint. I think I might give it a shot to paint the entire hull instead of having someone else do it.
 

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
As for your bench seat it could be as simple as a plywood box base with a hinged seat bottom and backrest. Looks like a sturdy old hull and the 28hp would move it alright though I agree that a 40-55hp 2 cylinder would be better.
Which model 40 are you looking at?

Thanks for the tip on the bench seat! Should I put an angle on the back or should it be straight up? It is a sea king 40, or from what I can tell the same as a Johnson 40hp
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
The inside is just about done with paint. I think I might give it a shot to paint the entire hull instead of having someone else do it.


This might be of interest...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
eek.gif

Also I made this bench seat for my fiberglass boat but it would work just as well in an Aluminum boat...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-a-bench-seat-frames-foam-upholstery-w-videos
 
Last edited:

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
So i decided to start looking into the engine, today I got the flywheel off and my engine and my donor/example engine (which is in terrible shape). My problem that I'm trying to fix is that I only have one wire coming down from the magneto. Once I got the flywheel I off I see that there isn't even a hole drilled in the plate by the coil for a wire to go through. Were these holes factory drilled or did someone add them? If they are factory, why would I only have one wire coming from the magneto? Here are pics, the crappy looking engine is the donor engine and the cleanish one is the one I'm working on







Could I run a jumper from the coil without a hole in the plate to the wire on the other side in order for me to hook up a kill switch? I'm a bit confused here
 
Last edited:

ChapBoater

Seaman
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Messages
51
Another question, without a stop button or kill switch, how did someone turn this engine off? The way I understand it, you have to have a wire to each coil in order to kill the engine. Is it possible to run a wire from one coil to the other wire that goes through the plate and to the vacuum cut out switch and have the same effect with a switch?
 
Top