1963 Evinrude Starflite iV 75 hp- No Spark?

[malarky]

I was out on the water last week and my '63 Evinrude Starflite 75 hp died. I assumed fouled plugs. After doing some trouble shooting I found the gas lines to and from the carb to be dry rotted and replaced them. Still crank no start. Pour some mix in the carb, same result. Did a quick rudimentary test on all four plugs by removing and grounding against the motor and did not see a spark.
So far I have tested voltage at the coil with just the key on (about 5.5v) and cranking (about 7 to 7.5 Volts). I obtained these values by testing the positive terminal and ground against the engine. I still need to test the coil wire to the distributor by removing and seeing if there is any spark at all.
I did a quick visual on the distributor cap and points. They look fine with no carbon build up. Have not checked gapping yet.
Are the values I am getting from the coil too low? I am hoping to take a deeper dive into this later in the week to do some more trouble shooting. Any guidance will be appreciated!

 

[racerone]

I think those use a resistor wire to cut down the voltage.----Check the rotor for a leak to ground.

 

[malarky]

Thank you. Two questions- what sort of voltage value should I expect to received from the coil when cranking? I've read 8 volts is acceptable (and 12 is too much) but I'm not sure. Also, what method would I use to check the rotor for a leak to ground?

 

[F_R]

The coil voltage varies according to whether the points are open or closed. Therefor your meter may not be able to read it while running or cranking, except to give some sort of average. All this to say you readings are ok, and your resistance wire is doing it's job also.

I'd almost bet the rotor is shorted to ground. They sometimes arc through the thin layer of plastic between the contact strap on top and the distributor shaft that it fits onto. The arc-through burns a pin-hole track through the plastic, almost invisible to the eye. But the spark has no trouble finding the defect. We test them by using our coil tester. I suppose you could rig up some sort of test, using your coil as a spark producer.

 

[malarky]

Thank you. Short of a coil tester is there a method to repair the rotor should I just plan to replace it? I have a source with some of these parts and I am hoping I can land one.

Another question: I mentioned the rotting fuel line that I replaced. Is there any sort of mechanism (as I doubt sensors on these engine were used on '60's era engines) to retard the spark if there was no fuel pressure, though I suppose I could answer my own question by say no since the coil is producing voltage?

 

[F_R]

In your search, be aware that there are two almost look-alike rotors Pay attention to the width of the tab.

 

[malarky]

Gotcha. I noticed that as well.

 

[malarky]

So I found a reasonably priced rotor on ebay that will be here this week. Made sure it was for battery ignition and pic appeared to match the tab on the existing rotor. Just for kicks I decided I wanted to test the coil via removing the coil wire from the dizzy and holding it 1/4 away from the block. I can't get it our of the Dizzy! I know these screw in, so I removed the wire from the coil and turned in counter clockwise. It only seems to twist the wire. Next I gently used a pair of pliers to grip the wire near the cap opening. Still won't budge. I am reluctant to twist it much harder and risk detaching the wire at the brass fitting. Any suggestions? WD40? I suppose I can wait for the rotor and if I still have no spark then troubleshoot the voltage to the dizzy.

 

[F_R]

All I can say is yes it simply unscrews. WD 40 won't hurt anything if you want to try it.

 

[Willyclay]

When F_R posts in a thread, I pay attention because I usually learn something. I typically post based on personal experiences and feel confident doing so in your thread. I had a 1962 Johnson 75 with battery ignition just like your Evinrude. One time it would not start when we were ready to leave the fishing hole. Everything (battery, solenoid, starter) worked properly but it would not fire/run. Had to be towed back to the landing. Got it home, put the hose on it and it fired right up like it had done for many years of mostly saltwater use. I suspected the "Safety Switch" was the culprit but it checked okay for continuity at retarded positions. I flushed it well with WD40 and it never failed me again. NOTE: my motor was only 21 years old when I traded it away. Good luck with your great old motor!

 

[malarky]

Thanks Willy...your situation is my worse case senario! I am hoping that I can definitively find the solution to my "no start, no spark". Otherwise, I won't have a sense of trust when out on the water.

 

[racerone]

These are a simple rugged motor.----Not fuel efficient.----But repairable with no special tools required.

 

[malarky]

I received my rotor and installed it on Saturday. No luck though on the spark. After some wrangling I was finally able to get the coil wire to unscrew from the dizzy cap and verified what looked like a consistent decent spark jumping to the block (of course its all subjective). I had previously lightly filed the points (still no spark) but was able to pick-up a new set of from a fellow that I met locally.

I do a fair share of automotive repair but points/condenser is before my time. I do not have a manual currently..i.s there a procedure that anyone can provide to install and gap the new points? My current plan is to lock down the fly wheel to prevent any movement in the dizzy and install the new ones in the exact position the old ones sit, then turning the flywheel adjust the gap to .2. Any help anyone can provide is greatly appreciated!

 

[F_R]

Sounds like you are concerned about getting it out of time. Best to learn where the timing marks are so you put it (the belt) back together correctly. It isn't difficult.

 

[malarky]

Thanks- I was not planning to remove the belt...do I have to do that? I was going to remove and replace the points only from inside the Dizzy.

I assume since the belt is in good condition and has never been removed, timing at this point should not be a problem?

 

[racerone]

Well if you are going to assume that the timing is correct-----Then no need to coach on how to check it.

 

[malarky]

One other question. I did some reading this morning to better understand how this ignition system works with points and condenser. In a nutshell if I am getting a spark off of my coil wire as I hold it near the block AND my coil test that should varying amounts of voltage ranging up and down while cranking that range from 6 to 8 volts, is this indicative that the points are operating properly, ie are creating a sufficient spark? In other words, if the points are doing their job, I don't want to waste time to replace them and rather, looking for another issue.

 

[malarky]

Thank you Racerone. The only reason I assume the timing is correct is that the belt looks new and in good condition (not missing teeth etc) it would not have jumped time. Not saying my reasoning isn't faulty, but in replacing timing belts and chains in an automotive setting that usually is the case. However, if it can jump time like that, perhaps that is where I should be looking?

 

[F_R]

One other question. I did some reading this morning to better understand how this ignition system works with points and condenser. In a nutshell if I am getting a spark off of my coil wire as I hold it near the block AND my coil test that should varying amounts of voltage ranging up and down while cranking that range from 6 to 8 volts, is this indicative that the points are operating properly, ie are creating a sufficient spark? In other words, if the points are doing their job, I don't want to waste time to replace them and rather, looking for another issue.

Your assumptions are correct, concerning the reliability of assumptions. In addition to what you mentioned, there are two sets of points, each set firing two cylinders. So. failure of one set would kill spark on two cylinders, not all four. Of course, both sets can fail at the same time, but not likely. That's why I steered you to the rotor. Oh well, I tried.

 

[Willyclay]

The link below will get you to a Johnson factory manual that will work for your motor.

http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html#/0

The link below will get you to a non-factory manual that covers your motor.

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library...service003.pdf