1963 Johnson RK-25 40 HP Electramatic won’t start

[McJuice]

​​ We recently bought a 1963 Starcraft runabout with the above mentioned outboard. We are having trouble waking her up. She has not been started in about 30 years. DH changed the lower unit oil (type c). Then decided to see if it would even start. So we put the engine in a large trash can of water, and on the second turn of the key it started right up. Didn’t keep it running long since since everything we read said to change the impeller (which would make perfect sense).

We changed the impeller now we are having one problem after another. The impeller looked brand new. Very little wear and very pliable. But we put the new one in anyway.

The electric shift cables had a small Knick when we had to straighten them out to get the lower unit off. We used flex seal tape on that. And put everything back together. And tried to start it. No go! Would start with staring fluid but would then stall out. We deduced it was not getting gas. Now we took apart the whole carb found that the spring on the needle valve of the carb was missing, and cutting off the fuel from the bowl.

Got out the parts put it back together and now it is doing this...
https://youtu.be/qfp0m2CN2mg. The screeching sound it makes once I stop turning the key is much louder than it sounds in the video.

Then we noticed a small amount of greenish oil/gas floating on the water of the tank. we are now at a loss as to what to do now. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jimmbo]

Odds are the coils under the flywheel are cracked and no good. Pull the flywheel and inspect. However before investing any more time/money, what are the compression numbers? The clip between the inlet needle and float arm, is intended to insure the needle drops, and not get glued to the inlet seat. Since that engine is 55 yrs old and hasn't been run for 3 decades, there are a few items to do

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...231-awakening-a-sleeping-outboard-by-boatbuoy

It will mention electric shift, which you have, needing special oil. That oils was called Type C, in the 70s OMC renamed it Premium Blend, and it is still marketed by BRP under that name. There are other brands of Type C being marketed, however some are not compatible with the Electric Shift.

 

[McJuice]

Thanks for your prompt response. Compression was 108 and 115. We did use type c oil but not sure of brand. One other question... the START lever does not move. Afraid to push too hard. Is that normal when the boat is not running?

 

[oldboat1]

It sounds to me like it's trying to start, but not quite catching. Bendix gear gets kicked down -- think it's pretty normal. It's cranking well. Unburned fuel in the water would be normal from the attempts to start.

Need a steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to pull the flywheel. Agree with the above advice on coils (even if you are currently getting a hint of spark). I would just replace coils, points, condensers, and likely plug wires.

 

[jimmbo]

Thanks for your prompt response. Compression was 108 and 115. We did use type c oil but not sure of brand. One other question... the START lever does not move. Afraid to push too hard. Is that normal when the boat is not running?

The start lever on the Electramatic needs the throttle cable casing to be able to move fore and aft a bit in order to operate. Yes be careful of pushing to hard, it will snap off. It might need greasing inside the control box

 

[McJuice]

This is the control unit we have. The large lever (forward, neutral, and reverse) operates smoothly, and without difficulty. It’s the small red lever at the bottom (labeled START) that we can’t move.

I’m kind of a novice with outboard motors, but I assume that if that won’t move, the engine isn’t getting any gas and therefore won’t start.

 

[F_R]

A common problem. Take it apart, and remove the red lever, clean it up and re-lube with waterproof marine grease. And yep, they are easy to break if you force it.

Also, you are correct, it will be hard to start without using it.

 

[oldboat1]

edit.

 

[jimmbo]

Your control box is a 1964 or later, as it has the provision to adjust(increase) the idle speed at the control unit. Our 1963 Electramatic had no provision

 

[racerone]

?---The parts book seems to show the wee red lever for throttle for 62 and 63 models !

 

[oldboat1]

curious -- switching out control boxes? The one on the boat appears to be different from the one pictured in #6 (appear to be similar vintage).

 

[McJuice]

Sorry, that was my bad, I forgot I had uploaded the photo of the controller, and I couldn't find the picture on my phone, so I just grabbed a screenshot for one on eBay. The one in the original post (with the black bottom), is the one we have on our boat.

So is that consistent with it being a '63 controller matched to the '63 engine?

 

[racerone]

The green colour indicates to me that it is a newer box.----Green being used post 1967.------But those ELECTRAMATIC boxes were the same in operation for all years I believe.----1962 to 1970.

 

[McJuice]

Ok. We are headed to the lake tomorrow and I will try to clean it up and grease it. Hopefully then we will have liftoff!!

 

[oldboat1]

I can't confirm the age of the controller, but the guts probably are the same as this '68 -- in case you need to disassemble: http://ww2.iboats.com/Remote-Control...iew_id.1544232

(Two-tone is prettier than the white, imo.)

 

[racerone]

In the 1960' OMC rarely changed stuff from year to year.-------They used simple quality stuff.-----I think all the 40 HP electramatic controls are the same from 62 to 1970.

 

[McJuice]

Ok. Thank you all for your help!

we got the motor to start by disconnecting the throttle and doing it by hand on the motor. So a step in the right direction!!

but when it’s running we are not seeing any water come out of the water “exhaust “ hole. We only had it going for about 2-3 mins and when we turned it off, one of the cylinders was very hot. We put a new impelled in last week.

Thought?
should water come out when it’s in neutral?
other then the impeller what else might be causing it to run so hot and prevent the water exhaust.

 

[racerone]

It only spits out of that hole until the thermostat opens.-----There is not a steady flow on cold start-up.

 

[oldboat1]

Sounds like you need to replace the t.stat. (Would be a reason for the auto choke failing to work as well, by the way.)

 

[McJuice]

Ok, I’m back again seeking guidance.
Got the motor running it was the choke lever not moving as far as it should.

So we put her in on Saturday - very exciting. But wouldn’t go any faster that a no wake speed. DH said 2-3 mph. Got it back to our dock and started looking at different things in the engine as to why it wasn’t getting any pick up. When DH took out the spark plugs top was black and had liquid on it the bottom one was perfectly clean and dry.

Compression and spark were both good on initial check. DH put new spark plug and same result.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.