1963 Pacific Mariner Lance (?) floor and stringer replacement

[carria4f]

Hi everyone! I have been lurking on iboats for a while since I picked up my boat and its been a wealth of information thus far. I picked up a 1963 (I think) Pacific Mariner with a badge on the dash that says "Lance", though I could not find any information of that model anywhere.

Since obtaining the boat Ive got the engine purring and rebuilt the lower unit with fresh seals and oil, added a tell-tale and rebuilt the steering gear in addition to the remote controls. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so that stuff didn't worry me, HOWEVER the glass stuff kinda does.

I tore into the floor after finding it was a tad "soft" towards the back. I found the usual, rotted stringers and soggy marine plywood floor only glassed on top. This is my first boat, and I'm unsure about the glass work. I'm also unsure about the transom. it appears very solid, and doesn't flex at all, when I removed the bolts holding the outboard on only a bit of white dust came out, is it possible its still intact? I was contemplating drilling into the transom to check if its rotted...but I'm not sure this is a great idea.

I need a materials list and sources for the materials. I live near Seattle, so plenty of boating suppliers, but maybe online ordering is cheaper? Not sure how much CSM and woven mat I will need for the stringers and the floor for a 15' boat. also Im unsure about which adhesives to use and how to check if they are compatible with what I already have in place. Thanks for the help. Here are a few pics in the gallery, they exceed the 2MB limit and Im not sure how to resize:

https://imgur.com/a/K3yGqj9

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard

if the floor is soft, the transom is bad too.

expect $3-4k for materials, PPE, supplies, etc.

as for finding information on a 55 year old boat from a company that no longer exists as it did back then. the original company died long before the internet was invented.

read the stickies for photo posting

 

[carria4f]

Thanks! though I already know what I'm getting into as far as cost and I know I cant find info about Pacific Mariner online, that's why I'm asking you gents! I also suspect the transom is bad, that's why I asked how to check it. Do you have any information about my specific questions?

Specifically:

1. Can I drill into the transom to check it if its bad, or if its been replaced at some point with composite?
2. How do I know what materials will be compatible with the existing hull materials?
3. Which suppliers should I target when buying products?
4. How much material (CSM, woven glass, and epoxy or resin) do I need for a 15' boat?

 

[Scott Danforth]

your not going to find information on Pacific Mariner..... that was well before the internet. what was pacific mariner is now rolled into Westport

1. yes, drill from the inside, about 1" deep, look at the shavings. wood and fiberglass is a composite. no-one does all fiberglass because it would be way too heavy
2. your hull is polyurethane resin and glass it may even be a chopper gun boat. you will know when you start working on it.
3. buy from the closest supplier you can pick up from. shipping resin has an EPA charge that is really high
4. read the stickies at the top of the restoration forum for all your answers. specifically links 14, 2, 3a, 3b, and 4

I wouldnt waste money on epoxy

you will spend about:
$300 on PPE
$300 on saw blades and grinding discs and brushes and mixing buckets and other tools
$200 on plywood
$1500 on resin and 1708 and CSM and chopped fibers and cabosil
$500 on miscelaneous

you will need more resin than you think because you will make mistakes, we all do. we call them trophies

 

[kcassells]

If you do go EEEpppoxy then order 1700 biax. No need for 08. Check out some sites for cost. US Composites has been good to me.

 

[carria4f]

Scott, thank you so much, exactly what I was looking for. I have all the PPE and tools etc. My shop is pretty stocked. I'm mainly looking at resin and fiberglass for my costs, then paint.

I'll look into the resin types and check the stickies. I've been reading and found several layers of 1700 biax might be best for the stringers after some CSM for tabbing. Does this sound sufficient? I've read that woven is a bit overkill, uses a lot of resin and isn't as strong as multiple layers of thinner biax.

I'll check the transom and see what I can find. I suppose drilling the hole closer to the bottom is best to check for water intrusion.

Again, thanks so much.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd recommend polyester. Faster and easier to use IMHO. The CSM that's stitched to it is more than adequate for all areas of the boat. This saves money and time. Easier on your wallet too!!!

 

[carria4f]

I'd recommend polyester. Faster and easier to use IMHO. The CSM that's stitched to it is more than adequate for all areas of the boat. This saves money and time. Easier on your wallet too!!!

You mean polyester resin? And which CSM specifically are you referring to? Can you link me to some I can read about? Thanks for the tip!

 

[Woodonglass]

Check this out...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
PM me if you have further questions
This list should give you a good start
. View attachment iBoats MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Troy tomlin]

This post really helps me as well 3 weeks ago i bought a 1963 Pacific mariner that needs the deck and transom redone