1968 Evinrude 33 HP Ski Twin

Wolfe64

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 15, 2016
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75
I got this motor with a boat I just bought and tried to get it running with a bit of success last night.
I had it in a tub of water but don't think it was pumping any
My question is how far does the lower end have to be submerged in the water?
From the YouTube videos I just watched they all have theirs submerged to just below the exhaust outlet.
If that's the case I had no where near enough of the lower end submerged.
I had it submerged to about an inch above the water intake.
Any help on this would be much appreciated Thanks

Mark
 

Wolfe64

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 15, 2016
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75
After some more digging it looks like I didn't have it submerged far enough, it should be above the bulge at the seam between the lower unit housing and the exhaust housing or it won't pump at start-up.
It didn't run that long but I was planning on replacing the impeller anyways.
Live and learn and do your research beforehand kids.

Mark
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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2 or 3 inches above that bulge is plenty deep, the water level is above the pump and water will get to it and prime it
 

Wolfe64

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May 15, 2016
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Thanks Jimbo, that did the trick and the water is pumping like crazy.

So tonight we had the motor running again, better than last night but still far from good.

This is where I need help from the engine gurus on here

Fiddling with the low speed jet adjustment, we have to run it with the choke 1/4 closed, and then it runs fine at a bit higher rpm but when we bring the throttle down closer to an idle it bucks and farts a little bit and quits.If we try to leave the choke open all the way, it will quit.


Any help/ direction on what to do would be greatly appreciated :)
Of course I will still research this on my own also.

Mark
 
Last edited:

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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Dirt, gum, varnish in the low speed circuit if you are not able to get a rich enough mixture using the low speed needle. Initial setting for the mixture needles are 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated for the low speed needle and 1 turn out for the high speed. But have you verified that both cylinders have spark?
 

Wolfe64

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May 15, 2016
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Thanks Jimmbo.
Yes, both cylinders have spark.
I was researching last night and a Seafoam treatment came up.
I may try that next.
If that doesn't work I guess the next step is a carb rebuild

Mark
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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You need to clean/rebuild the carb. Make sure to remove the plug on top of the carb and clean the orifices inside. That is your idle circuit.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
^^agree with earlier posts. Need an adjustable spark tester, open air type for about $10. Look for "hot" 1/4 to 3/8 inch spark, and might get more. To get a strong spark you almost surely need new coils, points and condensers if a PO didn't rebuild the magneto. Get a harmonic balancer puller to take off the flywheel. Chances are, you will see old cracked coils that are on their last legs.

If you have been looking at stuff on Seafoam, and maybe have some, use it to soak metal carb parts after disassembly (I use lacquer thinner). You need a rebuild kit -- disassembly with cleaning/rebuild is a first step, then use fresh fuel with settings discussed above. Replace old fuel lines. Spraying something through the carb won't clean it, btw, and putting solvents in your tank will likely loosen up stuff in the tank or lines, feeding it into the carb and engine.

Don't fool around with an old impeller. It it breaks up, you will need to fish bits and pieces out of the motor -- will be into much more than planned.
 

Wolfe64

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May 15, 2016
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Thank you for the comments and suggestions.
Dad was testing the spark the old school way, a plastic handled screwdriver shoved into the plug wire end and then against the spark plug.
He could get a 1/4 inch gap on each plug.
A carb rebuild may be in the future and I hope to get an impeller tomorrow.
So here's what happened tonight.........

We had major success.

The low speed adjustment lever has 2 tabs that only allow a certain amount of rotation.
I decided to unscrew that lever and turn the needle in so it seats lightly and count the turns.
Know what I found?????
The needle only turned in 3/4 of a turn !!!
So even with the lever on turning it to the rich side I was only getting maybe a bit more than 1 turn.
So I turned it out 1 1/2 revolutions and installed the lever so that I could turn it back to about 1 1/4 turns and the rest was richening it up.
Leaving it at 1 1/2 turns Dad was going to work the choke manually like he did last night but I told him I would run the electric choke and the key.
Choke on and a couple of revolutions and the engine started and sat there idling.
So we ran the motor for a few minutes adjusting the throttle up and down playing with the low speed needle setting till we were both satisfied with it.
I did have it in forward and reverse gear and brought the rpms up a bit in each.
We shut it off and ran it quite a few times. It always started and idled good.
It never got hot I could always put my hand on the head or the cylinders and they were fairly warm to the touch

I finished up the rest of the wiring in the boat and have a few more things to do but hopefully I can get it in the water this weekend to give it a test run.

I am a happy camper tonight :biggrin1:

Mark
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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13,642
The initial needle setting are just that, initial. When adjusted, they end up being leaner. The High speed has to be done at WOT, then slow down and adjust the low speed, then repeat the high speed adjustment
 

Wolfe64

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May 15, 2016
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Thanks Jimmbo I'll get my son in the boat to do that with me.

Mark
 
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