1968 Johnson 33 HP pull start , I can barely pull it 1 compression stroke

[Beamer50]

Has not been run in 8 years , I was given a Manual 1956 to 1970 and it does have a compression relief rod . I know very little about 2 cycle but alot about 4 stroke car engines . Former race car owner , builder , driver 1992-1996 . Rebuilt engines on picnic tables many years ago but NOTHING about 2 stroke and don't want to ruin a hopefully very cool little engine on a 1968 , 14 ft. Rebel closed bow , really cool ...Please bare with me , I'm new to this site and everyone seems to be very helpful from posts I have read , Thanks , Beamer

 

[oldboat1]

Multiple posts on the same topic make it tougher, Beamer. I would continue adding a little lube to the cylinders. Use two-cycle oil, and pull it over without the plugs. Let it set, and pull it over again.

It may be that it's just normal compression, as they are hard to pull over. (I've never had much success with the compression relief.) It's tougher if it's on a stand or if you have an awkward angle.

 

[interalian]

Some of these larger motors are "two hands on the rope, brace left foot against the transom and pull with all your might, and hope you don't fall into the fish well" types. I once tried to rope start my 90 just to see if it could be done - no way even warm.

 

[F_R]

Yes, they can be difficult to rope over if on a stand or similar. On the boat, where you can stand up and grab the rope with two hands and haul on it, they aren't so bad. But of course, not meaning to insult you, but it depends a lot on your strength. I have a 10hp brand X that I can hardly start, and there was a time I could start the biggest of them. Can't be old age, must be something else.

 

[Beamer50]

LOL , thanks guys . To hot to mess with it today , I'm 64 , Cancer , broke back twice , 7 heart attacks , bypass , 2 strokes and on & on , but I'm doing good . 30 plus years running road freight and Amtrak trains was far worse then what I've been thru in last 15 years , lol . Like my tee shirt says , The older I get , the better I was . What about the timing marks lining up ? For starting ? Where is the compression relief valve/rod ? There is a small rod in front top of starter housing , It moves slightly up & down by hand , but if you push it down u cannot turn fly wheel ? Thanks again , Beamer

 

[jimmbo]

I thought the compression relief system was on used on 1957 - 1961 engines. I've never seen it on a 33 hp

 

[oldboat1]

^^ What jimmbo says, Beamer. My compression relief(s) were on '57 or '58 35s. But can't say it worked great for me anyway.

 

[Beamer50]

Thanks guys , not really sure if it has a relief valve or not ? Where would it be & how does it work ? Gonna take suggestion and put a little 2 cyc. oil in both cyl this morning EST 8:30 am . I will update yall on any progress. Oh , I noticed when I pulled the plugs they were just hand tight ! Just wondering if they were put away that way or left lose for easy start as weird as that sounds ? Beamer

 

[racerone]

There is no compression relief on a 1968 model 33 hp---period.--And loose plugs do not have anything to do with it starting easy.----Time to invest in an electric start kit for this motor.

 

[tomhath]

I have a 33hp SkiTwin, as already mentioned it takes two hands and at least one foot for me to pull the rope. Fortunately it starts on the first or second pull every time. Make sure it's out of gear when you pull on it.

 

[F_R]

LOL , thanks guys . To hot to mess with it today , I'm 64 , Cancer , broke back twice , 7 heart attacks , bypass , 2 strokes and on & on , but I'm doing good . 30 plus years running road freight and Amtrak trains was far worse then what I've been thru in last 15 years , lol . Like my tee shirt says , The older I get , the better I was . What about the timing marks lining up ? For starting ? Where is the compression relief valve/rod ? There is a small rod in front top of starter housing , It moves slightly up & down by hand , but if you push it down u cannot turn fly wheel ? Thanks again , Beamer

Start position is have the shift in neutral, then advance throttle as far as it will go toward "Fast" (it will only go so far). That is the start position. No compression relief on a 33. They actually made the motors that had them harder to start anyway.

 

[Beamer50]

Raceone , tomhath and F_R , thanks guys for your help , always appreciated : Update , I put 2 cap fulls of 2 cyc oil in each cyl yesterday like oldboat1 said and slow pulled it several times . Haven't messed with it since that , pulls very good with plugs out either in gear or out so thats a relief . Raceone , you're right , no compression relief , the rod , spring loaded at top to bottom of fly wheel appears to be some sort of timing advance mech . and electric start would be the ticket but I don't want to put anymore money into boat / motor / trailer until I hear it run , trailer needs new hubs , tires etc. Agri Supply sells axle , hubs and wheels less then $200 . Someone said something about the timing marks on fly wheel for starting , can anyone explain that ? Also , manual says non-re-build fuel pump , just clean screen , says Filter on black plastic housing and was very clean but I cleaned it anyway , is it a pump or as says , filter ? . Many thanks , Beamer