1968 Springbok

[Wolfe64]

I picked this boat up on the weekend a 1968 Springbok Impla with a 33 HP Evinrude Ski Twin and trailer.
Boat and trailer are in decent condition tires are a year old, but the motor doesn't run (I never buy anything that runs lol)
It came with 2 manual downriggers ( I took them off the boat, they are of no use to me), 2 plastic gas tanks and hoses, 4 spare props, a spare carb and a spare starter and bracket.
The previous owner used this boat last year but he bought a Lund.
He says the engine needs coils as it will not fire.
I found some pretty iffy wiring in the motor and the connector which necessitates that the connector, both male and female needs replacing.
I hope to get this done this week and try to start it.
I'm also straightening out and repairing the dash wiring.
The floor is ok for now but will need replacing for next year.

Mark

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd for sure do some core samples of the transom to ensure she's not rotten.

 

[gm280]

I have to say that connector looks like it got really hot and charred the wires there. I would see if you could find the manufacturer's engine, year, model, and HP specific shop manual and then attack the wiring on the engine itself. The manufacturer's shop manual covers everything you would want to know about the engine with detailed schematic diagrams as well. Well worthy the money spent. Don't buy an aftermarket manual. They don't cover things like that and are too general to be of much good. JMHO

 

[Wolfe64]

The transom was replaced first of last year according to the guy I bought it off of. But I'll test it anyways. It's not too hard to change if I have to
I would like to find a shop manual or at the least a wiring diagram.
The engine side of the wiring harness was pretty wet as in oil /fuel and it looks like that penetrated the wire insulation and that mayhem ensued.
I did trace the wires and know what is what.
There is one piece on the engine I'm not sure about what it is though. Looks like some kind of a vacuum or temp sensor and the - side of the starter solenoid is connected to it
I should go back out and take a picture.
I redid the engine side of the wiring harness tonight complete with a new connector and will tackle the boat side connector tomorrow night.
I still have a bunch of wiring to straighten up underneath the dash too.
Fun fun fun !!!!!!!

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

Ok here is the part I was talking about.

Mark

 

[Woodonglass]

I think you'll find this link very beneficial...http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1971-1989johnsonevinrude.html#/0

 

[Wolfe64]

Thanks Wog
Lots or reading to do there
In my last post I stated that the - wire of the start solenoid attached to this part. Well it does but only as a ground to one of its mounting bolts.
This piece has ignition wires attached to it and the circuit goes up through the key switch and back.
From what I've read its maybe an overtemp switch that grounds the ignition system if the motor gets too hot ????
Just a warning I am posting this as I just got up and haven't had any coffee yet lol

Edit: Or an over revving no load safety switch

Mark

 

[thomas15]

Wolfe64,

I'm not going to comment on your repairs but just wanted to comment on the boat. One of my friends had the same model boat when I was a kid. We lived at the Jersey Shore and my friends family was deep into pleasure boating. My friends parents bought the boat for my friend and his two brothers and they had it tied up in a slip. Theirs was painted aqua, didn't have any kind of floor as your has and it had a 20 HP Chrysler.

This was around 1970 or 71 when they took me out for a ride, it was the first time I had been in a small boat that went over more than about 7 MPH and had a console so it was an exciting experience. So your boat brought back some pleasant memories. It was a nifty little boat, yours will obviously move faster than his did, his went somewhere around or most likely less than 20 MPH I'm guessing. It seemed like we were going quite fast. I remember because it didn't have any kind of floor it was a tad uncomfortable trying to stand on the slanted floor with all the ribs. It also sounded like it was riding on top of rocks when you drove through ripples in the water and the old Chrysler was noisy but it was still a fun boat and I thought my friend was the luckiest guy on the planet to have that boat.

Good luck with your new boat.

 

[gm280]

Wolfe64, the part you were asking about is actually a vacuum cutoff safety switch. If ever your engine started to run very fast by itself while in neutral at idle, that switch cuts off the lower cylinder's ignition spark. So you need to keep that switch there and make sure it works. JMHO

 

[Wolfe64]

Thomas that's great that my boat brought back memories of your childhood and if you lived close I would take you for a ride when I get it running
Thanks gm I read a bit of the link Wog gave me this morning and I thought it was something along those lines.
Is there a way to test this before I start the engine????

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

Hey Wog that's a great website I found some information for my Johnson 100 hp electric shift motor too.
I did find a schematic for a 1968 Evinrude 33 hp with a generator. Now if I could find all the generator part it wouldn't be too hard to install them on this motor.

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

We had some success with the motor tonight
I got the wiring harness done and installed, filled a barrel full of water and lowered the bottom end into it.
Called my Dad and he came over to lend a hand.
I cranked the motor over and he checked for spark which we had in both cylinders, although one was noticeably weaker than the other.
Plugged in a tank of fuel that I got with the boat (it was old fuel), primed the line, choked and hit the key.
We did this a few times and the plugs weren't getting wet. At this time the old car battery went dead so I did the rest of the testing with the pull start.
We eventually did get it to fire and run for a few seconds at high idle but there was no water peeing out of the motor and the engine was a bit hot to the touch.
So at that point we stopped and at least I heard the motor run, on both cylinders with old as dirt gas and 2 mismatched spark plugs.

But it ran, and I was happy about that, now onto installing an impeller and a good tune up with new parts and some fresh fuel.
I am going to feel all that pull starting tomorrow morning :lol:

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

Come to find out that I didn't have the motor submerged enough for the impeller to pick up water so we will try again tonight and see what happens.

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

The motor pumps water much better when submerged past the impeller. :thumb:

Now I'm having issues keeping it running which I have posted over in the Evinrude engine section.

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

As posted in the Evinrude Engine section, we had great success getting the motor running good tonight and I finished up the wiring for the lights.
A few more things to do and it will be ready for a test run

Mark

 

[Wolfe64]

We did the test run today and it went well but not without a glitch.
I did ok unloading and loading the boat for my first time. I did have it running in the driveway this morning before we left so it started right up.
Pulled away from the dock and just played around at or below 1/2 throttle to get used to driving a boat since I never have before.
Full throttle was a bit blubbery rich so adjustments were made, not perfect but better.
A couple of times at higher throttle the boat felt like it slipped out of gear so throttled down and back up a bit and it was ok. Kinda seemed weird to me.
I did get into a shallow spot and turned up a little mud and after that I could not get any speed out of it. The motor ran fine but no speed.
We managed to get back to the dock at a snail's pace and load up the boat.
Something is not right here.
We get the boat home and I could turn the prop with the motor in gear, which I couldn't do before.
So off comes the cone and the engine cover, I turn the prop and it turns the motor over until it hits the compression stroke, the motor stops turning but I can still turn the prop.
There is a good smell of melted rubber and it had oozed out between the prop and the insert.
So I can turn the prop and insert until the motor hits the compression stroke and then only the prop turns.
There is my problem.I take that prop off and there is lots of fishing line behind it. I get that all untangled and install another prop that I got with the boat, set up the barrel and give it a test run.
It works, at least in the driveway.
I am wondering if that prop was on it's way out and today's little excursion was the straw that broke the camel's back for it.
We hope to get out again tomorrow for another run.
It was a good day, we were out on the water for about 1/2 and hour, the boat doesn't leak, I did alright unloading and loading the boat, got some practicing in on pulling up to the docks, and Mrs. Wolfe and I had a great time.

Mark

 

[gm280]

Oh that prop looks toast. Could have it fixed though.

 

[Wolfe64]

I kinda figured so.
Could someone actually repair that ??????

Mark

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup that's what's known as a Spun Hub. Take it to any marina and they can put a new hub in her. Thisis NOT a DIY job. It's designed that way to protect the drive shaft. Costs should be in the $40 to $75 range.

 

[Wolfe64]

Thanks Wog I'll do that sometime, I still have 2 more spare props I got with the boat.
We did get out today for a while and the boat ran fine with the spare prop I installed.
Lots of fun !!!
I would post a pic but Photobucket is being stupid

Mark