1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

bighow

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Hi. I'm new to this forum. I have a 1969 - 33hp Evinrude<br />model 33952(a). Upon taking the gearcase and bearing assembly apart I noticed the wall(s) of the water pump nearly coming apart. The manual lists the gearcase and bearing assembly as part #593514.<br />What other Evinrude motors is this gearcase compatible with?<br />Lastly, where would I have the best luck in find such a unit?<br />Thanks<br /> [*]List Start 1969 - 33hp Evinrude List End
 

lark2004

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Do you have any outboard wreckers near you? That is where I would start.<br /><br />Can you send picture of what is wrong? If the pump body is damaged, then that is all you should have to replace, not the whole lower unit.<br /><br />If you can send a picture, my email is in my profile (the little mane next to the folder), next to the "name of boat" field.
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

lark 2004<br />I've sent off a pic. Take a look.
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

papasage:<br />Is that unit a remote or tiller? It's hard to see from that<br />angle.
 

lark2004

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Only one pic was viewable, that was the one that showed the repair you had done on the lower unit. <br /><br />You shouldn't have any problem getting it welded up. I have had similar things done. I took my stuff to a machine shop that repairs alloy cylinder heads for cars. <br /><br />As for compatable lower units, I am not sure. Is yours manual shift or electric?
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

lark2004<br />Thanks for reply.Its electric start with a remote<br />steering.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

The 33hp engines were all manual shift.<br /><br />I'm not sure what's damaged. Could you fill us in a bit there lark2004? Thanks!<br /><br />You can use the entire lower unit from a 28hp, 33hp, or any mechanical shift 40hp (as long as they have the same transom length) '60-'70. Or even a 50s 35hp. I belive no internal changes were made after '65 (thrust bearing and such), but entire units will swap. The water pump on the 40hp lowers has two lines, so it won't be any good to you. Which reminds me, the '67-70 40hp lowers probably won't work because they use a different style water pump.<br /><br />I hope that helps!
 

lark2004

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

It's the casting underneath the waterpump, around the driveshaft seals and bearings. There are several area that are cracking. He has repaired some of it with some sort of filler, Not sure how effective it would be.<br /><br />
1849.jpg
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Thanks lark2004. I just recently tried out one of those aluminium solders (the bernz-o-matic one, not the durafix one) and I'm very impressed by it. You would need at least a Mapp brazing torch to heat up those areas enough to get the stuff to flow, but it might be just the thing.<br /><br />My 33hp is cracked in just the same areas, and I was planning on repairing it with the stuff. It's pretty obviously freeze damage due to pockets not draining properly. I have a good spare housing, but it's set up for the older pinion bearing arrangement and would have to be machined slightly to fit his bearing.
 

jameswilson95

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

I would replace the gear case housing if I were you. Salvage what you can from the old one and biuld up the new one. It will give you piece of mind when out in the middle of a big lake. I know the winters are cold in Saskatchewan so you wanna make sure you run the water pump empty of water before storing the motor for winter. Unless your lucky emough to have a heated storage facility.
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

To James 95, Paul Moir, and Lark2004:<br />Thanks for all your replies. I do agree that it was abused by the previous owner(s). I just received a line<br />on a good used lower unit, so I'm requesting a photo &<br />exact model # it was taken off of.<br />I do agree with James 95, piece of mind is to important.<br />If I can get a good used lower unit I think that is the way I will go. Thanks again guys. <br />You've got a quality forum here.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

No trouble at all. But if it's only the webbing along that chamber, then it's nothing out of the ordinary & will likely not harm anything. Those cavities won't adequately drain no matter what you do (short of drilling your own drain holes), so all I ever do is try to seal between the l/u and the wear plate with some sealant.<br />
dny3gn.jpg
<br />The one on the left is stoved in in the same place as bighow's. The chamber's wall on it's upper right completely broken off. The one on the right has the upper right chamber stoved out and the lower left chamber is deformed. They look bad but they're both just filthy.
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Paul Moir<br />I'm by no means a welder but I did try to run some aluminum rod in the cracked areas. It was cleaned<br />very well first. The aluminum rod did melt and flowed great but unfortunately aluminum is an excellent absorber of heat. The trick is to get the piece hot enough to fuse with the aluminum rod, but not to hot to cause damage to other parts. Or better yet to cause any sort of warping.I used a plumbers acetylene torch for the heat source. Where did you get the bernz-o-matic one from?<br />I would be worth the challenge to repair it,especially if I can find another unit to use.<br />Thanks for your input.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

I got the bernz-o-matic rods from Princess Auto. On behalf of the East I thank the West for that essential store. :) <br /><br />If you wern't getting far with an acetylene torch & oxy, you won't be getting any further with mapp. Frankly, looking at the work you've done, I'm not seeing any problem. Unless there's a crack between the exhaust area and where the water inlet runs up into the water pump (the deep hole in the water pump area), or somewhere else critical, I don't see a big problem. I'd be willing to bet most the Big Twins in Canada have broken webbings along there.
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Paul Moir<br />The crack I'm concerned about starts above the brown stain in lark2004's pic. Look from just above the water seal housing running diagonally to the left. Where this line ends, it turns and goes up to the surface where the <br />water pump plate would sit. It's barely holding on and I packed the cavity with Devcon magic putty, to prevent it from coming off. If it broke off it would be a piece about an 1"-1.5" long and about 0.25"-0.5" wide. This could jamb up the water flow, if I know my luck.
 

papasage

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

bighow it is a eletric start remote stering . <br /> good running motor . i have a 55 evinrude i use now . it has a alternator . . the 33 dont but can fish all day without draning battery . onley use a deep cyckle and start onley use another for trolling and depthfinder
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

That's the wall of the lower left chamber in my picture right? If you think it's going to fall off, take it off since it can't be doing any good now.<br />This is clearly a defect in the design of these lower units. But the defect never seems to amount to anything. If you could get a better housing free or cheap, go for it. But don't be suprised if it's cracked in exactly the same spot. <br />Your filling job looks great & the housing looks like it's in fantastic shape otherwise. Especially compared to my salt water housings. One of those two is going back into service... :)
 

bighow

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Re: 1969 - 33 hp Evinrude

Paul Moir<br />Yes thats right it is the lower left chamber on your pic. Would these missing pieces not affect the performance of the water pump? As I understand it the water pump is very low pressure. As far as my housing goes I'm quite happy with it, except for the cracked piece. Maybe I'm to picky but I don't want to be redoing this motor again in a year or two. I'd rather be out fishing instead of fixing.<br />Thanks for your replies and take care.
 
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