1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

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Jun 21, 2009
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Ok guys need some help! Engine runs fine and revs past 5000rpm in neutral but put it in forward and its got nothing, starts bogging down like the choke is stuck on (its not though). Where should I start looking? Its got brand new marine plugs (so there is no gap to set). First time out it got up to about 35mph and still had more??? Any ideas, maybe a hole in the fuel pump? Its been sitting 8 years before I got it, help please!!!
 

jonesg

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Feb 22, 2008
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Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

sitting for 8 yrs would be in serious need of a carb rebuild with new kits,
heres a video of a johnsom 115 carb rebuild, very simple to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5cxBMDezuU&feature=related

meantime check for spark on all cylinders, they rev great with no load when a cylinder is dead.

if the problem is dirty carbs , realize the damage you can do revvin 5K with no fuel/oil going to a cylinder.

If it ain't running right don't rev it up, it will not clear itself out, it will start breaking rings and things.:eek:
 

tx1961whaler

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May 31, 2008
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5,197
Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

Ok guys need some help! Engine runs fine and revs past 5000rpm in neutral but put it in forward and its got nothing, starts bogging down like the choke is stuck on (its not though). Where should I start looking? Its got brand new marine plugs (so there is no gap to set). First time out it got up to about 35mph and still had more??? Any ideas, maybe a hole in the fuel pump? Its been sitting 8 years before I got it, help please!!!

Revving a 2-stroke in neutral to 5K+ is a real good way to destroy the motor.
Since it was sitting for awhile, read this:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086
I'd check the compression, then the spark (with a spark tester), then clean and rebuild the carbs and put new fuel lines on it. The water pump impeller needs replacing, if it hasn't already been done.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2009
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Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

Do they sell a carb kit for this unit? Or is it not sold anymore??? Also can these motors be upgraded with electric fuel pumps, the kind that can be purchased at local auto parts stores? Another thing is can the ignition be upgraded with a auto coil like in a Chevy 350? It would be way hotter of a spark then the little rink a dink coil thats used now... Any thoughts on this?

Thanks, Damian
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

start with a compression make sure you have a viable base to work on. compression should be 100 psi or above, but more importantly the need to be within 10 % of each other.

outboards are not designed to use electric fuel pumps. it is an extreme fire hazard. your ideas are what ruin great designed motors. that dink coil will do just fine.

1 for each carb, carb kit: http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...gd_poid=109334&gd_row=71&**********=239630337

your motor has a power pack. they are very touchy, and pricey. do not try to run the motor with out a battery in the system, also DO NOT accidentally connect pos and neg cables backwards. it blows these expensive parts.

you should find everything you need here http://www.iboats.com/Johnson_Outboard_Parts/dm/dz.36857--view_id.271265

also great helpful info here. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end

They don't list the impeller or fuel pump for my year motor, any other places you can think of? Thanks again for all the help and info!
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end (updated info)

Re: 1969 Evinrude 115hp no power on top end (updated info)

OK, heres the update! I took the fuel pump apart and there is no hole in the diaphram, put it all back together then took the carbs off. No need to rebuild them as someone was already in there not too long ago. New rubber gaskets new seat and valve, and nothing from what I could tell was clogging any jets. Blew them out with my compressor anyway then reassembled and reinstalled them. Then moved onto the compression test, Cyl 1: 127, Cyl 2: 125, Cyl 3: 135, Cyl 4 131 all seam to be close to each other. Some other info there looks to be a fairly new Wabash Pulse Pack on it, the electric choke solenoid is electrically disconnected, there is no temp light cause someone installed a tap on the top of Cyl 1 and added a water pressure gauge (I could also use it as a tell tail **** stream if I wanted) question is what should this read for good water pressure? Also someone removed the Bellcrank Assembly (Slow speed adjuster) out of the air silencer. Is that needed or can I get away with not having that piece?

Also checked the spark gap all 4 cyl's and its reading .353 inchs with a blue spark

All seams to check out, but I am loosing power at top end still??? Help please...
 
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