1970 60hp Johnson click but no start

[thegipper]

My boat restore is done and it was time to put the boat in the water today to test her out. I wen't to start it (fully charged battery) and it cranked like normal, I tried for about 10 seconds then remembered I didn't squeeze the bulb a few times.

I go to start it again and it just clicks (starter is not spinning). I tried for a good 10 minutes and got nothing but a clicking noise (relay clicking sound). I removed the positive wire and put 12v directly to the starter and the starter started spinning. I figured the starter is fine since when it gets 12v directly, it spins immediately.

I checked all connections, visually, and made sure everything is tight. Randomly, it started to crank like normal and it fired up right away. I let it idle for awhile in the water and just for grins, I turned it off and tried to turn it back on. This time it clicked three times before it started to actually crank and it fired right back up again. Drove around the lake for awhile (boat turned out great, very happy) and came back to the dock because its super cold out in WI still.

Turned it off at the dock, tied up and got the trailer. I go to fire it back up again, and it cranked and fired up right away.

I'm assuming there is some kind of starting relay or something? What would cause the engine to make a clicking noise but not crank over randomly? Bad connections at the battery? I tightened them down real good and they look relatively clean as far as I can tell. Thoughts??

The motor otherwise worked great and my added pee hole work good (thanks for previous help in a post on here).

 

[F_R]

Absolutely, remove the battery cables from the battery and clean everything shiny bright. Then reinstall tightly. This will cure 90% of such problems. If not, the symptoms would indicate a bad starter solenoid or a dead spot on the starter armature. But don't go jumping to conclusions. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the starter cable terminal when in the clicked status.

BTW, the solenoid is the only "relay". It is clicking, which proves that everything is good up to that point.

 

[thegipper]

I'll do that this weekend, sometimes stuff looks "good" but its not actually making a good contact. I figured I'd ask just in case there was a known issue with this motor.

Thanks

 

[boobie]

My guess would be a bad solenoid but check it out with your voltmeter.

 

[thegipper]

How do I check it? Isn't the fact that it is clicking a good thing meaning that it is working? I have very little knowledge in this area.

THanks

 

[boobie]

It may be clicking but that doesn't mean current is passing through it.

 

[F_R]

The solenoid is a heavy duty switch. It is turned on and off by an electromagnet coil. The electromagnet makes the click when energized, turning the heavy duty switch "on". But turning it on doesn't mean it is actually making contact. That's why you check the voltage---to see if it is actually passing current.

 

[thegipper]

So I need to check the voltage at the starter when the key is turned to the on position? If it not the same voltage that it is at the battery, there is either a connection issue or the solenoid is bad?

 

[racerone]

??---When the solenoid clicks it means that the plunger INSIDE has moved.-----There is a disc INSIDE that must connect the 2 big terminals on the OUTSIDE of the solenoid to carry the heavy current to the starter.----If the starter turns properly when booster cables are used directly to the starter then you may need to replace the solenoid.

 

[F_R]

So I need to check the voltage at the starter when the key is turned to the on position? If it not the same voltage that it is at the battery, there is either a connection issue or the solenoid is bad?

Not just "on" but turned to "start" and the solenoid clicks, there should be battery voltage at the starter and it should be cranking. No or very low voltage, battery is bad, or connections are bad or solenoid is bad. If you have voltage at starter but it is not cranking, starter is bad, or negative cable connection is bad.

There is no magic or voo-doo here. Just simple basics.

PS--did somebody mention that 90% of the time it is bad battery cable connections? Do that first.

 

[Bosunsmate]

The contacts inside the solenoid get burnt and pitted over time, so when the electromagnet forces it down it will sometimes make a contact that will conduct electricity but other times it wont. You can take the solenoid apart and sand the copper contacts flat and then put it back together. I use zip ties to hold it together again or if you dont want to do that you will need to buy a new solenoid

 

[thegipper]

I took off and cleaned every connection (battery and every connection at the solenoid and starter) but it still just makes a single click when you turn the key. I then got my volt meter out and hooked it up directly to the post where the power goes to the starter when the key is turned and I got zero volts. I can clearly here the solenoid working in the sense that it is moving the parts internally to complete the circuit but clearly the connections inside must be bad because I'm not getting any voltage coming out.

At this point I will either buy a new one or try to take this one apart. From the looks of it, it looks riveted and not serviceable. Thoughts?

 

[boobie]

You're learning. It's up to you if you want to try and take it apart or buy new.

 

[thegipper]

the reviews I'm reading on the sierra replacement part are terrible, most people say they are junk. They either fall apart or only last a few times before not working again. Looks like I'll have to get an OMC replacement. My local boat shop has a good amount of parts in stock and their prices are pretty cheap, hopefully they have one in stock.

Just for shits and grins, I may try taking this one apart, I got nothing to lose.

I sure am Boobie!

 

[racerone]

Can you remove the rivets and put it back together with 4 small screws ?

 

[thegipper]

I tried taking it apart and the housing cracked in half when I was drilling out the rivets. The contacts were severely worn down, probably an 1/8". The contacts are molded in place so I doubt I could even put new ones in there.

Looks like I'm buying a new one, I think I'll just buy an OMC one since the reviews on the sierra ones are so bad. There was another brand, ARCO, but I've never heard of them and they are only 5 bucks cheaper than the OMC ones.

 

[boobie]

Take it apart as long as you have a new one. Nothing to lose and you'll learn more. Good Luck !!

 

[Bosunsmate]

Any 12V ones should work, mine has a cheap tractor one on it, was half the price of an outboard one. If you have a solder you could try adding solder to it then sanding it level. Cracked housings repair well with duct tape

 

[boobie]

Beware of solenoids. There is a difference between automotive and marine on how they are wired. Yet they look the same.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Beware of solenoids. There is a difference between automotive and marine on how they are wired. Yet they look the same.

Yep they often have an extra post on them but principles still the same, its not like at home where you have to work out what the neutral wire does!