1970 Merc 1150 (The story is finally ending) VVLP

MercFan

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
347
Hi guys!<br /><br />Finally good news! Had the boat on the dam yesterday, and we're just about done! Thanx a mil for all the inputs from you guys!!!<br /><br />Here's the update...<br />After my last post a lot has happened and nothing has happened. I still didn't know whether I had 1150 or 1350 and even calls to Mercury South Africa didn't help. What they did give me was the max advance BTDC for both motors 23 deg BTDC.<br /><br />The parts I ordered finally arrived. Had to be flown in from the US. Full carb gasket kits, needles and seats and fuel pump diaphrams and gaskets. I was also lucky enough to find a colortune in Johannesburg and had that couriered in. Brought a clock guage from my office, and we were all set.<br /><br />Now the boat pretty much became a pet project for me and my dad. So we spent every weekend around the engine. It almost became an obsession (To show "it" that we can beat it). And as we're working and drinking and chatting about the good old days we had, when I was very small, on the previous 2 boats my dad owned. (Both fitted with Mercs). The were red band 80 or 85hp. Going through our combined mechanical experience and trouble shooting each part as best we know how. We both pretty much suck at electronics and electrics.<br /><br />Every week we'd each take something of the boat to our jobs and have parts made or something done. <br />The fork in the top cowl that operates the latch broke. <br />The electrics looked suspect in general. I had a new fork machined on our CNC milling machine at the office, and my dad had all the wiring redone/tidied up. <br />I stripped out the steering rack and cable re-lubed and had the steering cable repaired/relubed.<br />The power trim/tilt died on us last weekend so dad had that reconned this week (Worn brushes).<br />The rectifier/regulator was also faulty. It rectifies, but doesn't regulate. Bought a second hand motorcycle unit.<br /><br />So everything came together on Saturday. <br />Re-measured and punched TDC and 23 deg BTDC on the flywheel.<br />Then a start-up and quick run to check the combustion color on each plug.<br /><br />Smoke!!! Disconnect battery in a hurry. The "new second hand (tested)" rectifier/regulator is burning up! Take a drink break to think. Drink some more. Phone a friend who's an auto electrician. Tells us that the type has to get power through the ignition key. Can't have 12V DC on the output side continious. Change the wiring. Pull 12V down from the white tab on the ignition. But now the rectifier might be blown, if it wasn't before. So we decide to disconnect it completely and continue. Test the stator. Checks ok.<br />Back to the startup and test run with the colortune. We did this to determine if the current main jets are too big, using the colortune. You can't do this with the earmuffs because you have to get the engine labouring and off the idle jets. The 5000l water tank worked like a charm here. You can't open throttle all the way, but you can get to 4000rpm. Combustion was orange. So too rich.<br />Carbs off. New needles and seats. Check float level. New gaskets. New smaller main jets.<br />Meantime I was replacing the gaskets and diaprams in the fuel pumps.<br /><br />Assemble. Link and Sync. Colortune run again to make sure we're not running too lean. All good. Still a little on the rich side, but much better than it was. So it's safe, and purrs like a kitten. Set idling neatral and in gear. Both good and under 1000 rpm. I should rather say "Sounds like". My tacho is the altenator type, but doesn't work at the moment. Close everything up. Measure battery voltage. Run at around 3000rpm for 10 minutes, measure voltage again. We're running all the electrics off the battery and we don't want to get stranded in the middle of the dam without power. Grab an extra battery from a car and load it up.<br /><br />The moment of truth! Get the family together, hook the boat, and set off to the dam.<br /><br />And finally, after weeks of labour, everything sounds good!!! Couple of spins around the dam. throttle pickup timing cou;d use a little work since the hole shot ain't that great, but all in all it really sounds and feels good! Did some low speed cruising and everything really sounds great!<br /><br />But alas, we're not all done yet. After shut off or long low speed runs you really battle to get her going again. The primer bulb goes soft aswell. She runs really great at full power and has no problems. We feel it's probably and air leak in the fuel line between the tank and fuel pump. The quick couplers at the tank and engine are our main suspects. Like everything on the boat and engine, nothing has ever seen maintenance, so the seals are all probably perished and hard.<br /><br />The boat will go to an auto electrician this week to sort out the regulator/rectrifier. I'm hoping that with a new one installed my tacho will also start working again? It's wired from a yellow wire from the stator.<br /><br />So all in all we're 99% there! Full power seems sorted, fuel consumption is heavy, but ALOT better than what it was. We'll also be checking the state of the plugs after yesterday's runs to make triple sure that the mixture is fine now.<br /><br />So here's a list of my questions:<br />Should my tacho work again when the regulator/rectifier has been sorted?<br />Above the prop the previous owner fitted 2 large "wings". They seem to be for anti-cavitation. Shouldn't they be running just ontop of the water at full power? These are running "in" the water, which doesn't make sense.<br />How high/low should the motor be mounted in relation to the water? Is there any way I can tell if the motor is maybe too high or too low on the boat?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,074
Re: 1970 Merc 1150 (The story is finally ending) VVLP

MercFan, It is nice to see you and your dad working on something together. A bit rare these days. I had lots of time with my dad, and enjoyed it immensly. On to business.<br /><br />The "wings" should not run under water. Likely motor is too low on transom. Raise it up, or remove wings until you figure out how to raise it up.<br /><br />Most/all of those motors ran with an unregulated charging system. The battery just absorbed the exess current, and since the charging system was only a few amps, it was not an issue. In the states we get replacement "25Amp full wave" rectifiers from Radio Shack for $3US. Mercury sells an inferior product for much more.<br /><br />23 degrees BTDC may not be the best for that motor. The CDI motors (no points) usually used a 21 Degree BTDC, to keep them from blowing up, although the factory specified 23 degrees BTDC.<br /><br />Make sure the high speed mixture is not too lean. The motor will hate that (run hot)and my make you pay for your mistake. It never hurt them to be run rich. Full throttle fuel consumption can be 15 Gal/hour. I get about 3 MPG on my speedboat, although I rarely run wide open.
 

MercFan

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
347
Re: 1970 Merc 1150 (The story is finally ending) VVLP

Thanks a mil for the reply Chris!<br /><br />Our auto-electrician also told us that the original unit we removed was not a regulator rectifier unit, but only a rectifier. I bought the 25Amp full wave yesterday. But I was suspicious. Thanks a mil for the confirmation!<br /><br />And thanks for the confirmation on the wings. We've already removed them last night and will do a test run this week-end. Your confirmation again is great!<br /><br />I'll mark out a 21 deg mark aswell and run the boat on that for a bit. If there is very little/no performance loss, we'll run it on that.<br /><br />The colortune is really handy for checking the combustion mixture. It was a bit expensive to purchase (about 90USD), but we felt it was worth it, to either avoid throwing away fuel/performance by drowning the plugs, or by melting a piston when running too lean. So far every test run on it has shown it's still a little on the rich side, but that's ok. It's not as rich as it was. It just proved that the previous owner thought he was going to get more permance by putting in bigger main jets. The main jets we have fitted now are factory spec for a 1150.<br /><br />One more question...<br />The red lug on the ignition gets permanent 12V from the battery, while the White is from the key ignition. We have installed an isolator switch that completely cuts all power from the boat (Fire protection). Thus the red leg also looses power. Will this hurt the ignition module?<br /><br />Other than that, we're all set and I'm hoping to post a short movie by Sunday :)
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,074
Re: 1970 Merc 1150 (The story is finally ending) VVLP

Mercfan, I would not think the isolator would hurt the switchbox, however, why not just unhook the harness at the motor plug. That would cut power to the motor and ignition switch.
 
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