Thank you very much racerone
Thanks for the diagram jimmbo, I may have fried my solenoid trying to jump the wires on the back of the starter switch. This cable the switch is on goes into the front of the motor and is held by two screws that holds it to a fitting. the two long wires that go to the battery are also inside this cable. I will still need them, but not that long. I want to do away with all of the remote wiring and just use a starter switch and a kill switch and the tiller handle. I can also do without the electric choke and use the manual chock. I have two Evinrude/ Johnson manuals by Clymer, but they leave a lot of things not explained well in my opinion. It has been raining every day for about 5 days now and I want to wait until it warms and dry's off a bit before I get back at checking it out. I like the large diagram you sent I don't have to squint to see it.
Thanks racerone
I just want to thank everyone who gave me their thoughts on my situation with the 1972 25 HP Johnson that had no spark. I finally have spark in both cylinders and have the carb apart soaking in acetone. there was some varnish in it, but the inlet needle valve looked good. I just spray them with carb cleaner if they have the rubber tip but soak them if they are all metal. I soaked my first rubber tipped one and it became a no tip one from the acetone. So I only soak the metal parts now and spray any non metal parts. I also had the main jets bushing dissolve once, I think they are plastic or some kind of formed material, this is the needle that controls the amount of fuel allowed to flow in. Again thanks to all who gave me advise. I ended up taking all the coils and condensers off and testing them and also filed and gapped the points, everything tested ok, put it all back together and still no spark. Left it sit a couple weeks and did everything all over again and had spark on the top and none on the bottom, then I filled the bottoms points again and got a nice hot blue spark and when I retested the top plug wire I had lost that spark so I filed that set of points again and wiped both sets of points off with alcohol and retested for spark. I now have spark from both plug wires. Over 100 lbs of compression in both cylinders and spark, now I am moving on to the fuel supply. When I removed the starter I saw that the owners before me only had one bolt holding the starter on and it had a Hela coil in it and a small part was broken out over the top edge where the bolt goes in. I put the piece back on with JB Marine weld and built it up some. I first put a greased bolt back into what was left of the threads so it wouldn't bond to it. I also got another bolt for the hole that didn't have one in it, the dummies tried regular threads instead of metric. It takes a metric 7-24 I think it was. Just love it when a plan comes together !
I found another problem today, the starter works, because I used it to get my compression, But I had to take it off to get to the right side carb nut. I then noticed it only was being held on by one bold the closest one to the carb and it really wasn't tight and had a helicoil in it. that's when I noticed the starter was made to turn the motor counterclockwise. Now I see all of the starters I have been looking at online say 11 teeth and CCW for the Johnson starters, but the pics that show the gear and spring look like the one that was on it and its gear turns clockwise. I have to be sure that the starter I get turns counterclockwise so the flywheel turns clockwise. The standard 1/4 - 20 bold was a bit sloppy in the threaded hole and the next size up was too big, just needed a hair larger so I got a #7 metric and got that in the hole that was still good but had no bolt in it to hold the starter mount. It is good and tight now and I have a good 1/2 ich of threads in it. What does the CCW mean in the new starters description ? I would think it means the way the starter turns since that's what it is describing, and never mentions the rotation of the motor. It gives a long list of what it fits and it includes the Johnson 25 HP from 1966-to I think 1980 or very close to it. I tried the pull starter and it's set up for the clockwise rotation. I bet when I drop the lower unit the impeller will be in pieces, I have a new one coming for it and for a1983 25 HP Johnson that is only a pull start and with the plugs in I can not pull it over smoothly without it bucking and causing me to stop my pull.
The starter gear has to turn the opposite of what the flywheel has to turn, the flywheel or outboard has to turn clockwise therefore the starter gear has to turn counterclockwise, for whatever reason the starter that was on this turns the gear on the starter clockwise therefore making the outboard's flywheel to turn counterclockwise. I even checked it on my bench and this starter is the wrong one for my 1972 25hp outboard. Another note is the starters gear is beveled on the left side of the gear teeth! And manually moving the starter gear it will only go up by turning it "clockwise" it should be beveled on the right side and have to turn counterclockwise to make the outboard motor turn clockwise, the way it is supposed to turn. The previous two people who owned this motor were buddies and it sure appears neither of them knew straight up! lots of riggings on this and is probably why they unloaded it. Yes you are right the starter gear has to turn counterclockwise, mine is clearly turning to the right clockwise.
Not so: The starter is what turns the wrong way, not the outboard motor. Nothing was hooked up wrong, the starter was made to turn clockwise and the bevel on its gear is for a clockwise turning starter.
Somehow the bore got worn or whatever and a 1/4-20 was a bit sloppy when screwed in so I put a #7 metric in because that was the only thing that would tighten up well enough to suit me. I know it isn't the right bolt, but the previous owners have things out of wack.
