1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

[markwoodward]

I just purchased a 1974 VIP 15 foot boat with a 1974 55hp Chrysler outboard. The motor started fine and drove okay in forward but when I tried to put it in reverse the motor acted like it was in neutral. No reverse at all. Is there a way to check to see if it's a linkage adjustment problem or a problem with the motor?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

before you try any disassembly, put the control handle in neutral--straight up. Now rotate the prop by hand the wrong way. If you hear clicking or it locks up, the shift linkage is biased too far forward.

Now, assuming no noise in neutral, have a helper slowly move the control to forward while you turn the prop. The lever should move about 2-3 inches before the forward dogs start to lock up. If it only moves 1/2 to 1 inch, it is biased too far forward. Do the same in reverse, and this time if it does not engage, on the side of the engine block you will see the linkage. using your finger, force it up a bit. If it now locks into reverse, the linkage is biased too far forward.

NOW--If we have proven that the linkage is biased too far forward, it is time to adjust. Remove the six screws holding the leg shroud on and remove the starboard (right) side cover. Now you will see a long hex with a locking nut. Loosen the locknut. Since forward is down and reverse is up, you must screw the long hex to shorten the linkage. (look at the threads--different on top and bottom) Do it about 1/2 turn at a time (a little goes a long way here) until the lower unit will lock up in both gears and neutral is free spinning.

Tighten the locknut and replace the leg shroud.

 

[markwoodward]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

Frank,
I followed your directions and made adjustments that appear to give me prop engagement both in forward and reverse. The throttle movement before engagement is a bit further than I hoped for ( 3 to 4 inches) but I at least now have reverse.
I found another problem I hope you have an answer for. I noticed a bit of grease/oil coming from directly in front of the prop. Upon removing the coned prop nut and prop I noticed that the outboard bearing hub housing that is held in place with two hex bolts, the top bolt hole housing was broken. Thereby only the lower bolt was holding the housing in place. I removed the housing and noticed that the inner housing had what looks to be a half bearing? I found small pieces of plastic in the gear oil but didn't notice anything made of plastic that it could have come from?

Do you know where I can buy the broken housing from with the bearing and "O" rings?

And what else should I replace while I'm working in this area?

Looking forward to seeing you expert advice! Thanks! Mark

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

That part is called the bearing cage. If you removed it you no doubt saw the O ring in the groove. This O ring seals the part itself from oil leakage and a garter spring seal keeps oil from leaking out around the prop shaft. These are standard parts and can be purchased at your local bearing supply store.
The bearing cage with the O ring is a rather tight fit in the gearcase and until you get another cage, it can be run with only one screw holding it----just take it real easy in reverse.

You are best off looking for a used part as new they tend to be pricey and really, nothibng can co wrong except for breaking the screw ears. However, you can probably get one for a newer Force--I don't think that part was changed-- or you can try franzmarine@aol.com for a new one--he may also have used, but expect to pay half the new price, no less.

 

[markwoodward]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

Frank,
Do I need to do anything with the inner half bearing or what ever it's called that the bearing cage bearing mates against? Also, is the piece of plastic I found in the grease/oil reason for concern?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

If I remember correctly, the bearing on older lower units is a regular ball bearing and is a slip fit on the prop shaft. You can press it out and re-use it if it is in good condition. HINT: If you heat the bearing cage on a 100 watt light bulb, it should get hot enough to ease the bearing removal yet not hot enough to damage it. HOWEVER: According to your description, the bearing cage is carrying a tapered roller bearing--stranger things have happened. Anyway, if it is a cup from a tapered roller, the cone will still be on the shaft. Usually, on the larger engines with this type lower unit, the bearing cup is shimmed into the bearing cage to maintain proper prop shaft end play. So, if you do get a new bearing cage, 1. be certain it is the same as the one now as far as bearing type or get a complete used one with bearing. 2 If you re use either type bearing, be certain to re-use any shims that may be present. There is nothing to do with the gearcase except be certain the O ring seating surface is clean. They usually maintaind a rather tight tolerance during machining and those gears are a bit more tolerant of slop than the larger engine lower unit gears.

The plastic has me stumped because there is nothing of that sort inside the gearcase. The only thing remotely like plastic is the thin gasket between the lower and upper half and if that was damaged, oil would be leaking out the gearcase. The only other thing that comes to mind is it could be excess Permatex or other sealer that a previous owner used.

 

[markwoodward]

Re: 1974 55 hp Chrysler outboard

Frank,
I found out that Franz lives about 1 hour south of me. What luck! I stopped by and saw him today and he suggested that I remove the lower unit so he could take a look at it. He was confident that something internal caused the bearing cage tab to break. During the lower unit removal process I was embarrassed to find out that what I thought was a half bearing was actually ice build up covered with grease.... Franz said he would rebuild the lower unit for $70.. Sounds like a reasonable price to me.. I'll let you know how things turn out. Thank you very much for taking the time to talk me through my questions and for suggesting Franz as a parts/service source.