1974 Century Arabian floor and stringer project

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
I’ve been peeking through the bushes along the shoreline and I’m trading my lurker status to officially announce “She’s coming out” and it’s time to fix my 1974 Century Arabian. I purchased it in 2008 and have never been able to enjoy it. Unaware it needed stringer work since the day I brought it home, it was another case of “Buyer Beware” much like FriscoBoater, a Youtube legend of sorts, had experienced with his Searay. The man from the Southeast I purchased my boat from could tell you the name of the artist that produced the Century advertising brochure. When I was taken for a test ride, he says “You’re heavier the me, that is why the boat is twisting down on your side. He was very well versed in boats and had several boats, both wooden and fiberglass. After I got it home to East Tennessee, now East Texas, and spring came, I put it in the water and at 30 knots found it twisting down to the port side with just me in the boat. It wasn’t until talking with my brother that I learned about rotten stringers and floors that I’d been lied too and was worse yet, ignorant as a second time boat buyer.

Fast forward passed a few deployments as a military contractor and moving to East Texas, I’m finally ready to tackle my Arabian project. I still own a hanger at TN44 in East Tennessee, but have no garage space here in Tyler as of yet, but looking. It had been in my hanger for 4 years without any use and again, being ignorant to ethanol fuel and the havoc it can wreak, she suffered terribly from ethanol poisoning. Along with the ethanol poisoning I was unaware that I had several gallons of water in the bilge out of sight below the fuel tank.

The water in the bilge would not in and of itself be an issue, but I tightly sealed the mooring cover over the boat and had a mess 4 years later when I went to pull the boat to Texas to begin rehabilitation. Even though the boat was in the hanger, the moisture migrated into the engine and I found the oil was silver and the 440 Chrysler was locked up. Along with that, the starter was heavily rusted and also locked up. I was able to get the starter cleaned up and working but plan on a detailed overhaul once the floor and stringers work is complete.

I freed up the engine by topping off each cylinder with PB Plaster and soaking the engine for about two weeks. Once it was free, I changed the oil and filter a second time and pulled the distributer. I made a tool from a drywall mixing blade from Home Depot and started to pump fresh oil through the entire engine via the oil pump using my 1/2 inch drill motor. By hooking up the remote starter button, I could get the cam to turn over and lube both heads. It looked like the water fountain at Disney World with fresh oil being shot all over the inside of the boat in an artistic synchronization.

Free at last and never turned over with the moist oil, my attention turned to the ethanol poisoning. In 2011, I put on a new mechanical fuel pump and water pump but was never able to use the boat since. The ethanol ruined the new pump, but surprisingly, I was able to vacuum the Edelbrock carb of the old fuel and pump in some new gas and it fired up and ran very nicely once I installed a new fuel pump. Garbage in the fuel tank showed up to plug the fuel line on each shake down cruise at the lake.

Great, fuel system cleaned out and third shake down cruise. All is well and I’m doing 45 MPH with the boat twisting to the port side and I must have shucked the “New” (installed in 2011) water pump. Next thing I know the boat is stammering again and carrying on. Unaware the water pump shucked itself and plugged the transmission cooler, I continued thinking the fuel system was the “usual suspect.” I figured I’d run it until the bad fuel was burned and all would be OK.

Well, I believe the stammering was caused from overheating the reverse gear in the transmission due to the rubber impacted reverse gear cooler. Now, she stalls each time I drop it in reverse and stammers and bogs down in forward.

I’m going to be pulling the V-drive out and transmission here in the driveway and get that rebuilt before I find storage and tackle the floor and stringers. Unfortunately, I have not found much in the way of parts or overhaul literature for my Paragon, so I guess I will be mostly on my own.
 

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jones01m

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
252
Kiloecho,

I am looking forward to seeing another Arabian receive new life. When do you plan on the gutting?
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Real soon! I'm going to pull and rebuild transmission first. I need to find a workshop in the meantime.
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Let me share my ideas for floor and stringer replacement. I've been studying the Iboats forum and have only seen two restorations using Seacast for the stringers. Here are my thoughts and since time is more important to me than money. I'm aware Seacast is more expensive than plywood and timber but I think the time savings will pay off. After getting the boat level and plumb my thought is of use the existing floor to pour a 3/4 inch Seacast floor. I might have to do it in several sections. They will be removed and set aside until the stringers are poured and finished. Once the existing wooden floor is out, I will saw the stringer caps with my 5 inch circular saw and clean out the wood leaving the glass in place as a form for the seacoast and sand the inside for a good bond. If the glass stringer skins are not usable, I thought I could make a foam mold of the existing stringer skins and use the mold to build new skins much like Archbuilder did with his Slickcraft. Then pour in the Seacast and glass the caps back on, set seacast floor down, secure, and glass. I'm on the fence about pouring foam. I welcome any comments and suggestions.
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
I'm dragging my feet on this project while I wait to see when I redeploy. I don't want to settle in and have to leave it sitting in pieces while I'm gone. I'm waiting for my clearance to be reactivated and then off to "Dusty Acres Infidel Resort."

KE
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
I've made a little progress on the boat lately. I had to build another bow stop as the one that was on the trailer was mostly useless and the boat wanted to climb up and over the old one. I think this one should do the trick.







 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
No Title

I pulled the V-drive out the other day and have it sitting on the bench. This past summer the transmission fluid in it was the shade of chocolate milk. It obviously got water in it when the boat dock roof failed and filled the boat with water. I freshened it up and went boating. During that outing the water pump failed and I overheated the transmission. The good news is the separate V-drive appears to be fine. The entire gearbox turns over with just three fingers on the bearing surface without a catch or growl.

Later this week I plan to remove the big Chrysler and the transmission. I'm eager to get the transmission apart to see what I need for parts.

I'm also going to start documenting the existing measurements of the structure and make templates. I may even start the demo.

I found out today I'm CONUS until April so I may as well get the project underway.

Let me know how the videos work. I'll switch to youtube is I need to.


http://vid173.photobucket.com/albums/w43/kiloecho1/100_0012_zpsowpzt2co.mp4

http://vid173.photobucket.com/albums/w43/kiloecho1/100_0013_zpsjj4pbli3.mp4

http://vid173.photobucket.com/albums/w43/kiloecho1/100_0014_zpsdbhy70cz.mp4

And now, watch me bust my ass! Lost control with a 6 foot wrecking bar.

http://vid173.photobucket.com/albums/w43/kiloecho1/100_0015_zps07svvxri.mp4
 

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Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
I did a search for "level and plumb" and came up with a few hits. gm280 was near the top and I read much of his thread. Great job and very nice looking work on the spars and bulkheads of his project boat. What I took away from the information I found was that having the floor level and plumb was not that critical. I have been stalling on removing the engine and starting the demo because I was not sure if the boat is in it's final location for the repairs. It appears to be a consensus that this in not much of a consideration. Is that true?

My thoughts were that I should have the boat floor level in longitude and laterally before I started the demolition. My plans for right now are to remove the engine and transmission in the next week and then start making foam templates, measurements and lots of pictures. I have a few ideas on how to proceed. One being to keep the 2 inches (tabbing) on the perimeter of the floor in place as a reference and assign stations along the bottom of the bilge for measurement up to the floor.

I was and still am interested in building a home out of structural insulated panels. They are essentially two pieces of OSB held parallel in a press and foam injected between them to form a building product that looks like a giant ice cream sandwich and is also very efficient and builder friendly. While visiting a plant in Louisville KY the salesman gave me this tool. It is a hot knife and used to hollow out the foam for dimensional lumber which is used to fasten of splice the panels together. I plan to use it to scoop out the old foam in my Arabian. Should work well.



 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Kiloecho, If your stringer glass is still in good shape you can just cut the top off like you suggested previously ..It would sure save you some time .... A chainsaw would make quick work of getting the old wood out ... Unfortunately on my project there was nothing salvageable on the stringers so I had to make all new skins ..
Nice boat btw ! Looking forward to the rebuild !
Good luck !
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Sphelps, I love your MFG. Very cool boat and looks great! I studied your thread on the use of Seacoast per WOG's recommendation. I think that is the way to go if I can. I'm eager to get the engine and trans out so I can scratch out my templates and dig in. I have a 12v Makita trim saw that I thought would be useful in sawing off the tops of the stringers to open them up. Thanks for the suggestions.

Would it make any sense to make a form and make 3/4 seacoast floor panels? Plywood would be easier of course but I thought by the time I found and shipped marine grade plywood the cost might be about the same. Maybe not?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,111
That hot knife works good, slow and steady. Stinks awful though.

It does get crazy hot, IDK if it gets hot enough to scorch fiberglass if it comes into contact w the hull. Typically that H bar allows you to adjust the depth of foam you want to remove and slide the H along the inner/outer edge of the plywood sandwich.

Good luck

Enjoy your time stateside, thank you for your service
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Would it make any sense to make a form and make 3/4 seacoast floor panels? Plywood would be easier of course but I thought by the time I found and shipped marine grade plywood the cost might be about the same. Maybe not?

I don't see why you couldn't make panels .. It will take a little stronger glass layup than you would need for plywood .. At least 2 layers of 1708 bi-axle on the bottom and probably 1 or 2 on top ... Use the calculator on the seacast site and that will tell ya how much it will cost ... Plywood would be MUCH cheaper but it all depends on what you want .. Give the folks at seacast a call and they can help with all the tech questions you may have ...
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
My friend Herb and I pulled the engine and transmission out of the Arabian yesterday in the hanger at the airport. It went very smoothly and without to much complication. I spent today cleaning out the hull at both the carwash and the back yard. I used the bilge pump to get the water and degreaser out at the carwash. After most of it was cleaned out, I washed it with soap and water and used the shopvac to suck out the remaining water.

I have to go to work for a couple days and then hope to have a stand built from car dollies the day I get back home.
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Last Monday I got the boat to the carwash and got it cleaned up. Since the low spot is under the fuel tank, I plan to use Seacoast in a similar fashion to Archbuiler and his Fuggly project. I was amazed that that area where the black wood and straps are hold 25 gallons. Since I had no AC at the carwash I moved the bilge pump from the stern and pumped out what I could into 5 gallon buckets.

I now have the complete interior out and stored in the attic.

I have not seen honey bees in years and they have taken swiftly taken up residence in the rotten wood of the stringers. They leave me alone while I'm working, since I do the same. Since the chemical companies have done their best to kill the bee population I plan to try to get them to relocate. Maybe diatomaceous earth will encourage them to leave. In the old days I'd have throw out some gasoline, but I don't want to spread an oil based product up that will contaminate everything. Any ideas gentlemen?

I also built a stand to the engine that will allow me to move it around. I left room at the end for the V-drive.

​I also picked up some 1/4 inch foam for Lowes that I plan to sue for templates. I may get started on that today.




Here is a photo of one of my bee buddies.





 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Have the bee's formed a nest ?
Local bee keepers will come and get them for free ..
 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Have the bee's formed a nest ?
Local bee keepers will come and get them for free ..

Sphelps, that is a great idea. The friend that helped me pull the engine was a pest tycoon and told me the bees were most likely using the rotten wood to build a nest. After chasing them out of the bolt holesI poured a few tablespoons of waste gasoline (out of boats fuel tank) in the holes. Yesterday, there was only a trace of them and it appears to be improving.

I have started on the patterns and hope to finish them today. I put a video together on the technique I used.

https://youtu.be/v4Dm_RhyCVs

 

Kiloecho

Seaman
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
51
Making more progress. I have the entire floor out and may start grinding in the morning.

 
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