1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

[samer0214]

I just paid $250.00 for a 1974 19' Glencoe with a 1974 302cid OMC Sterndrive.

The boat hasn't been in the water for a while and the hourmeter shows 538 hours (assuming those are the actual number of hours). The interior needs to be completely restored, but the hull looks sound.

I would like to start it up to even find out if the motor runs, and here is where I need your help. I would like to replace all tune up parts and fluids and proceed from there. For all I know, the motor could be frozen.

1) What steps should I take to prepare the boat for a startup?
2) Where would I search for the part numbers I need to get started up?

And finally, was this a good purchase?

 

[NW Redneck]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

First, welcome to iboats! I've got the same setup (mine's a '75) that was sitting for 12 yrs before I got it, so how long is 'a while'? As to your last question, you may regret asking that here! There's not alot of OMC love goin' on amongst the black anchor (merc) crowd. However, if you're handy they're not hard to work on. The engine is just a ford 302 and pretty basic. The drive is fairly simple in operation, but does need some special tools for shimming gears etc. As long as you're not allways drivin' it like you stole it, it should last quite a while.



As for point 2, first, see if the engine will turn over with a wrench on the crank pulley. If it turns, try just hitting the key to see if the starter engages and turns. If does, then it's time to start checking out the other systems.

Drain the oil and re-fill

Get new points & condensor, plugs & wires, cap & rotor

Go over ALL the electrical connections from the battery cables on through, especially the grounds, and make sure they're clean and tight

Drain the fuel tank and add fresh gas (or just use a seperate container to start out)

Replace any fuel filters (there may be more than one)

Take the carb apart and clean it out, make sure the float & needle are ok and the passages are clear

IF it's sat for a long time, pick up a tool to pump oil through the engine by removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump. Replace dist. hook up a battery and crank her up!

Make sure you've got got the hose on so as not to fry the impeller. They are pretty skookum, and will last a long time as long as they're not run dry.


Here's a couple of links that might help out:

http://www.sterndrive.com/
http://www.marineparts.com/

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

[chiefalen]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

Welcome aboard!

Your about to embark on a long and wonderful learning journey.

You will need a manual after you follow the steps NW Redneck asked you to perform. It was good sound advice.

I will include a link to a post i wrote when it's time to check out your drive.

Always run this setup with the drive all the way down and with water going to the drive. With muffs or in the water. Never start the boat without water going to it.

Never run it on the water with the drive up always down fully. I wrote this twice because this setup demands the drive always run fully down.

When you do get it running you will need to install a new impeller and check a few things, please post when you reach that point and i am confident we can walk you thru.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=259807

Good luck!

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

NW Redneck and chiefalen: thank you for your warm welcome and quick replies! I am now more excited than ever about this purchase.

NW Redneck, my guess is that the boat hasn't been in any water since 2005 because of the registration stickers, so hopefully, no frozen engine.:redface:

What about replacing the outdrive oil?

And finally, the outdrive has a gardenhose inlet on one side, which I am assuming is where I need to connect to run the motor out of the water. Or is this just for flushing/desalinating? I don't see a place for "earmuffs".

 

[NW Redneck]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

Yes, the garden hose fitting is for flushing AND running on land. You'll need a female-to-female hose adapter. The water pickup is above the prop, so muffs don't work.

As for the drive oils, I would just drain a little from each right now to check it's condition. I'd make sure you have a working engine first. Once the motor's running, then move on to the drive. You'll just be in neutral for engine testing anyway.

How was it stored? Covered? Heated? Outside? Mine sat in a barn/shed where it was nice and dry, but not heated. I had to soak the cylinders with penetrating oils for 4-5 days, but mine finally popped free with a wrench and a 3' cheater bar.


And listen to chiefalen about always having the drive fully down when running. Those ball gears are sturdy enough when fully meshed, but they'll disintigrate quickly if you run the drive tilted up even a little.

Let the adventure begin!

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

At the risk of sounding ignorant here, but how do you bring the outdrive down? Is this done manually, or is the drive motorized? I didn't see any up/down switches anywhere on the motor controls, or on the console.

As for emptying the gas tank, I am assuming this will have to be syphoned out for now (testing purposes only) right? Otherwise if I want to feed the motor some gasoline now from an external container, how do I do that? Any suggestions?

 

[NW Redneck]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

There should be a switch somewhere on the dash to tilt the leg up and down. Standing in the boat looking at the stern, there is an electric motor on the right side of the engine down low and right up against the transom. This motor drives a worm gear that turns a gear inside the clutch housing, tilting the motor. If you start at the motor, there's 2 wires that go to 2 solenoids (one up, one down). Follow the wires from the solinoids to the dash and that's your tilt switch.

Remember that tilt and trim are 2 different functions. TILT is strictly for raising and lowering the leg for trailering. TRIM is for adjusting the angle of the drive while underway. There are at least 3 different trim types that I know of.
First is a 'manual trim', where you manually set the angle by turning a jackscrew at the front on the engine. This is a fixed position so you can't change it while running.
Then there's 2 kinds of powered trim, or "SelecTrim". One is a motor-driven version of the manual jackscrew. The one I have is a hydraulic trim, with a ram on either side on the engine mounts.

As for gas, just disconnect the line from the tank to the fuel pump and put the line into a jerry can for temporary use. I put a long section of line on my fuel pump so I could have the can outside the boat so it wasn't in the way.

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I found the switch after all, and now that I have a fully charged battery connected, I tried lowering the outdrive, but it didn't budge. When I hit the switch I hear a clicking sound, which I am assuming is a solenoid, but the tilt motor doesn't work. So the drive is stuck in the 'up' position for now.

I tried starting the motor earlier, but the starter won't even budge, unless the motor is actually frozen. I will test the starter solenoid and the starter motor, and go from there.

Any ideas?

 

[chiefalen]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

Heres a old post i wrote. But it won't help you with the motor. Thats a whole different story.

I don't think if the motor is frozen i would keep that boat.I would part it out.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=259807

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

NW Redneck: I might be facing the possibility of a frozen engine. You mentioned in one of your posts above that you soaked your cylinders in penetrating oil for 4-5 days, and then the engine started. Did you do that through the spark plug holes?

Your insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I tried starting the motor earlier, but the starter won't even budge, unless the motor is actually frozen. I will test the starter solenoid and the starter motor, and go from there.

Ooh! Don't even think of trying that again until you are able to lower the outdrive. And NEVER run the engine with the outdrive more than 10-15% up, and that for only emergency 'get it out of shallow water' circumstances.

Your tilt motor probably needs to be removed and at minimum, check brushes and clean the commutator. It is not uncommom for water to get into the motor and gum it up.

When you remove the two thru bolts, be carefull as both endplates of the motor will want to seperate from the main body. You'll want them to seperate to inspect, as noted above, but on your terms when you have it on the bench.

If it turns out it is wet and or oily inside, there are remedies which we can discuss later. I've been told that once the windings have been oil soaked the motor will never develope proper torque again. I would still try to soak it in a suitable solvent and give it a try before buying a new one.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

NW Redneck: I might be facing the possibility of a frozen engine. You mentioned in one of your posts above that you soaked your cylinders in penetrating oil for 4-5 days, and then the engine started. Did you do that through the spark plug holes?

Your insight would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, use Magical Marvel Mystery oil, inserted thru the plug holes. If you could get a squeeze bottle with a flexible tube on it, I would forcefully squeeze a 1/4-1/2 oz into each cylinder.

Once you have let it soak in, then try to turn the motor over via the bolt on the crank pulley. You can try rocking it forward and backward. If you get it to move at all, I would stop and squirt some more oil in before continuing to turn it full circle.

If you could get it to turn over, by wrench, easily, then you could let the starter, in short bursts, revolve it numerous times. (all assuming the outdrive is lowered, including for the wrench turning)

I doubt you will get it to fire as I am sure you will have carbureter issues as well. Just don't burn up the starter trying.

 

[NW Redneck]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

NW Redneck: I might be facing the possibility of a frozen engine. You mentioned in one of your posts above that you soaked your cylinders in penetrating oil for 4-5 days, and then the engine started. Did you do that through the spark plug holes?

Your insight would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, pull the plugs and squirt the penetrating oil into the holes. WizeOne pretty much covered it. Kroil or PB blaster also work well. And BTW, my engine didn't START after 4-5 days, it finally broke free and turned with a wrench on the crank after 4-5 days. Don't expect to jump right into firing it up. You are going to need to go over each system seperately first before you think about trying to actually start it. The progression should be something like this:

Get the engine to turn over by hand
Remove the starter and alternator and get them tested
Pull the carb and clean/rebuild it
Check all the fuel lines & fittings-replace any suspect lines & tighten connections. Replace any filters.
Go over the electrical system (each and every connection) All need to be CLEAN & TIGHT. Replace any corroded/damaged wires. Test all switches and solinoids & see if they work. Replace all 'wear items' - points, cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs.

THEN, you should be ready to try and fire it up. First, if the tilt system is still not working, support the leg and remove the tilt quadrant (large 1/4 round gear on the left side of the drive). It's held on with 3 bolts. Then gently lower the leg all the way down. Once you get the engine running, we can move on to aux. systems like tilt & trim and then the drive itself.

All this may sound intimidating, but if you break it down into stages like I listed and work through them methodicaly it's not so bad. This is pretty much how I did mine, and I brought mine back to life after a 12+yr 'hibernation'.

The first thing you should do before you go any further- GET A MANUAL! It will help out immensely, and help you to understand the answers you will get from this forum.

 

[wire knot]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I've got a '75 stringer.

DON,T SHIFT INTO GEAR AT A HIGH RPM

These drives should only be put into gear at around 600 rpm.
You might think of disconnecting the shift wires till she's runnin right.

I,ve been very pleased w/ this OD I'm just trying to baby her.

WK

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

Ooh! Don't even think of trying that again until you are able to lower the outdrive. And NEVER run the engine with the outdrive more than 10-15% up, and that for only emergency 'get it out of shallow water' circumstances.

I think I might have overstated what I tried to do when I said I tried to start the motor. My purpose was to simply crank the engine once or twice. But everyone's advice is well taken and much appreciated: I will not start the motor with the drive in the up position.

By doing what I did, as a 1st step, I found out that the starter solenoid isn't even working (no clicking sound). So time for a new solenoid. The next step is for me to lower the outdrive before doing anything further, as everyone here has advised. Thanks all. I will report back.

 

[NW Redneck]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I misunderstood what you were trying to do when you said you tried to start it. Just pull the tilt quadrant gear for now to get the drive down. Focus on the engine for now, as without power everything else is irrelivant. And get that manual ordered!

 

[John Bussom]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

And get that manual ordered!

Don't want to hijack the thread but is there a manual avalilable for this motor? where ? I found a Seloc manual for the outdrive!

Mine runs but I would like manuals!
Thanks!

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I just ordered the Seloc manual and I should receive it Wednesday. The manual should also cover the engine itself, not just the outdrive.

I will confirm when I receive it.

 

[samer0214]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

Ok. So here is what I know so far:

1) The starter solenoid is bad. I confirmed it today by bypassing it and going straight to the starter. The starter wants to spin (I can hear it trying), but it won't because the engine is frozen.

2) I lowered the outdrive as recommended by everyone here on the board, by removing the '1/4 circle' drive gear, BEFORE trying to crank her over. I will address the issue of the tilt motor later, after I get the motor to start.

The next step now, is to soak those pistons with some Magic Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: 1974 OMC Ford 302 19' New Purchase

I don't want to rain on your parade but how do you know it ain't the outdrive frozen preventing the motor from cranking?

Ok here goes get ready for a long one.

I am going to assume the boat is on a trailer. I hate to *** u me anything.

Remove the tilt quardrant, it is the half moon gear. Let the drive all the way down.

Place a flat piece of wood under the skeg, it is the fin looking thing all the way on the bottom of the drive.

Crank the bow of the boat all the way till the skeg just touchs the wood.

Remove the bumpers, mark right and left don't mix them up.

Remove the 2 bolts both sides that hold the tilt shaft. Its the part that the zerks grease.Mark right and left don't mix them up.

Now here it gets a little tricky, have someone crank the bow up another 2 inch's and the whole drive should come off.Spin the drive, lift the drive over to the left port side still on the flat wood and tie it to the boat, swim platform whatever.

Careful with the shift cable all you need to do is expose the ball gear that comes out the transom.

Remove the 3 screws that hold the bearing carrier around the ball gear.

If you have a piece of metal around the ball gear remove.

Stick something like a claw hammer behind the ball gear and pry gently the ball gear and shaft out of the transom.

Now you can inspect the shaft and the drive is no longer connected to the motor.

You could just try to crank the motor after the drive is off to see if the drive froze the motor.

However the bearing might be frozen and you would not know.