1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

[JCDSparky69]

Hello All ,

Well I have been out on the water several flawless times in the past few weeks and then last night I came home from work ready to spend the night fishing and I got to the boat and started out onto the lake all is fine !!! I stopped the motor to troll a little and then picked up my trolling motor started the engine and was just putting along the out of no where the engine just quit !@#$%#$% . Like someone had turned the key right off ??? . I have had an issue with it losing prime in the bulb and figured no big deal Ill just reprime and off I go Right ?v NOT .. The motor crank just fine and the bulb was still hard but still no fire .. @#%$@#% I thought this isn't gonna b good . So I tried to re start several times and just trolled all the way back to my spot ( Disgusted) .At least I had enought juice in the trolling batteries to get me all the way back across the lake LOL . So I have been doing some digging around and it seems it might be one or more of several items , i.e. the power pack , the rectifier , or the timing base, aslo I was thinking of something in the stop circuit but I doubt it . If anyone has expiienced this please give some insight before I just start dumping more $$$ at parts that are not needed.
Thank you all very much
P.S. 1974 rude 115 V4 model 115493-B ser # J0004610

 

[boobie]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the pack. Spark, boat wiring prob. No spark, pack,timer base,stator or mtr wiring prob.

 

[JCDSparky69]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Ok Thank you , just one thing though there isn't a tether switch on my console do I still have the black/yellow wire running to the back ??. Is there another switch inside the controls ?
thank you

 

[Will Bark]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

He's talking about the black/yellow wires from the power packs.

 

[CynicCE]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Ok Thank you , just one thing though there isn't a tether switch on my console do I still have the black/yellow wire running to the back ??. Is there another switch inside the controls ?
thank you

I had the exact same problem as you and just got her fired back up for the first time today (1975 135.) Parked at the docks to get some grub and when I came back she was a no-go. I'm going to assume this is a spark based problem. So here is the order of things that I would try for resolving your problem. I would go out and spend 6 bucks or so to get a spark tester as this really allowed me to narrow down the problem.

1. As they said disconnect the black/yellow wire at the power pack. it's #1 (or bottom left side if that makes it easier.) Test spark on all cylinders. Your motor will have this even without a lanyard (it's essentially the off key position.) If it starts sparking again, replace the ignition switch. If it doesn't, plan on buying a new power pack and trouble shooting other stuff listed below.

Now here's where we have to kind of split it up a bit. I'll list the scenarios for a non running motor and we'll break it down that way. These are from the factory service manual and will be the same for your boat as it is mine.

NO SPARK 4 CYLINDERS: Could be timer base, stator, power pack, key switch or 10 way connector (but honestly...that's a metal block and I have a hard time believing it would malfunction)

No SPARK 2 CYLINDERS: Power pack, Timer Base

WEAK SPARK 4 CYLINDERS: Stator, Power pack, Key switch, 10 way connector

SPARK ON ALL 4 CYLINDERS: Fuel system, Sensor coil leads mixed up, Ignition coil primary leads mixed up.

Timer Base: You can use an ohm meter to give you an idea if this is working but you should use a DVA tester. I didn't have one so I got to investigate in different ways. Check ohms between power pack wires 2/4 (MUST be disconnected from the power pack) and 9/12 (They will be labeled as sensor coils 1,2,3,4 on the powerpack diagram) Ohms should read 8.5 plus or minus 2 Ohms. Please note that my Timer tested out properly for Ohms and was bad.

Stator: Inspect the stator and look for goo coming out of the windings. It's a real good sign the stator is dead or dying and should be replaced. If that's not present disconnect terminals 7/8 and test the Ohms...should be 630 ohms plus or minus 50 Ohms.

Now here's where you can decide what you want to do. My rectifier was original as were the power pack, coils, stator, and timer base. Right away I decided to replace the coil packs, rectifier, and power pack (as it seems power packs are common items to go out.) After installing all of those I did another spark test and found that I had a good strong spark on 2 cylinders. I switched the timer base wires to see if the problem followed and discovered my timer base was bad. I replaced and I'm back in action. Since the stator tested in range and didn't appear to be leaking anything I'm assuming it's good. At this point, you've replaced all you can replace and can be REASONABLY assured that you're not going to blow your powerpack.) Total cost invested in parts for repair? $442.87...I shop around

Hope that helps you out a bit. Let me know if I can be of help. I know how frustrating these types of problems can be to track.

Ben

 

[JCDSparky69]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Thank you very much Ben for such a detailed reply !!!!. I did find the troubleshooting guide in .pdf format listing just that same information. Hopefully I can get me rig back home sometime today (My buddy's truck took a dump ) and I will put the muffs on it and try these test out seeing I have my DMM home with me from work . BTW what is a DVA tester ? Is it just evinrude's way of saying multimeter, because I do have a handheld portable oscilloscope I can use too, (Electrical is what I do LOL) . As far as paying 442.87 for all those parts where did you find them because I looked last night and the power pack is $117 , Stator $340 , Timer base $ 290 , Rectifier $40 . Like I said not a cheap fix doing all that but def worth it if you can afford to. I did however unfortunate notice the dreaded potting compund drip from under the flywheel (prob stator I assume) cause previous owner tried to constantly charge 2 batteries off the motor for a few years he had it and I already did a check with a DMM and saw it was barley charging so I had already planned on replaceing the rectifier right off , in fact that will be ordered in a few min after this post . If there is a way I can get that .pdf to you it has information on rude motor troublshooting for many many models and ignition styles, just a handy publication to have I will share LOL
Thank you once again
John

 

[JCDSparky69]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Hey all , I was just looking through the parts views and noticed a fuse inline on the wiring harness any chance this simple little $2 Item could be the root cause ?????
Anyone know what this fuse is for seeing the description just states fuse and nothing else ??
Thank you

 

[Will Bark]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

On my 150 hp the fuse is to the starter solenoid it is a 30 amp glass.

 

[JCDSparky69]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Ok yeah I figured that LOL , I just came back from boat and checked the simple stuff and its not the stop circuit and the timing base ohm'd out at about 8.2 each set instead of the 10-20 designated so it's prob weak and need replacement or adjustment . The rectifier is on its way and hoping the stator will last the rest of the season I will order a timing base this week LOL Bummer .
Thank you all I will keep posting the results I am goning to pull it out tonite and bring her home put her on the muffs and continue troubleshooting at home .
thank you all once again
John

 

[CynicCE]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Ok yeah I figured that LOL , I just came back from boat and checked the simple stuff and its not the stop circuit and the timing base ohm'd out at about 8.2 each set instead of the 10-20 designated so it's prob weak and need replacement or adjustment . The rectifier is on its way and hoping the stator will last the rest of the season I will order a timing base this week LOL Bummer .
Thank you all I will keep posting the results I am goning to pull it out tonite and bring her home put her on the muffs and continue troubleshooting at home .
thank you all once again
John

So yeah...with the goop, I'd definitely be changing out the stator. That stator probably took out the power pack and if you've never replaced the coils you may as well do that. Rectifier...eh if it's original might not be a bad idea but it shouldn't be able to short out any ignition components so it's kind of your call there. I'd hold off on the timer base until you get all those parts installed and can test for spark. Maybe you'll be lucky and won't need it. Oh..and one last little warning: you have to assemble part of the coil packs yourself (Ie: the boot and clip inside the boot.) It was kind of putzy and took a good 45 minutes to get them all done.

I'm going to repeat that since I just noticed your last post. DO NOT AVOID REPLACING THE STATOR. YOU'RE PROBABLY GOING TO NEED A POWER PACK AND YOU'LL JUST RUIN THE NEW ONE. So yeah....you're going to be in it for a fair sum of dough. Your timer base is right in spec at 8.2 as the spec is 8.5 plus or minus 2ohms. I would still get everything but the timer base and see if that solves your problem. My timer base spec'd out fine as well but was only sparking on 2 cylinders. I'd wait until you fix the known issues and see if there's still a problem before plunking down for the timer base.

Ben

 

[CynicCE]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

I forgot your question about the DVA tester. It's a direct voltage adapter that fits on your multimeter and they're about 30 bucks depending on where you find them. It's the accurate way to test your stator and timer base and will read peak voltage. I was able to diagnose mine without but then again I was replacing quite a bit under there.

 

[JCDSparky69]

Re: 1974 Rude 155 just quit ??? H.E.L.P

Hello all , well got her home last night and just got done taking the flywheel off, quick question what is the torque supposed to be for the flywheel nut because mine came of pretty easy ??? Any ways after a little digging and probing the timing base ohms are around 8.0 and they should be 10-20 no prob new part on the way. Stator ohm'd out at 667 and it says around 500 is this good or bad I was wondering but new one on the way. Alas most of all I looked at my rectifier and noticed the red wire coming out of it is all cracked and shorted to the rectifier outer casing Hmmmm problem I think so. So I am replacing the stator , timing base and rectifier and hope to be back fishing soon Woohoo!!! I realize the stator prob OK but the two black bobbins on it are both brownish(heat) and starting to leak out potting compound so while I'm in there bye bye to it for a new one right.
Thank you all
B = bust
O = out
A = another
T = thousand
Gotta love it though right !!!!
Thank you all
I hope this fixes it any way gives me a chance to clean and polish and add more rod holders and goodies