1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

[RobsTV]

Prior to last year, Wellcraft V20 and motor was in storage for 15 years.

Old motor was running great until a couple weeks ago, but hard starting.
After pulling plugs, noticed slight amount of water in lower cylinder.
Compression is 145 to 155 each cylinder.
Pulled exhaust cover, then exhaust manifold.

Inside each exhaust area of block was an insert connecting the two cylinders on each side, so two inserts in the motor.
Inserts are held in place with three 7/16" bolts each.
The side with the water was badly coroded, and easily seen where it was leaking into exhaust of cylinder.
Both sides show inserts have warped pretty bad as well.
Probably overheated at one time in previous life.
Neither my original Evinrude nor Seloc manual shows these inserts.
From searching this site, I think these are Baffle Plates?

Motor is 135589 (same parts as 135583, 135543?).
Any idea where I can find these two inserts, or the part number?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

follow the prompts to your engine, full diagram, and parts list.
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Literature/

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Thanks, been there, checked, same as my factory manual, these are not shown or listed. They show the normal exhaust stuff, plate manifold, gaskets, but not these two inserts.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Just leave them out. The fact that they are warpped means the motor is running some fairly hot combustion temps. They won't have anything to do with the water leak anyway.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Thanks, that would be great.
There is a small hole corroded thru the block beneath that side, so perhaps that is where the water was coming from? Or just one of the gaskets on manifold maybe?

In the next hour I'll post with a couple photo's of the parts to confirm they are not needed, and also show the hole. Thinking JB Weld on the hole?

Already invested in coils, power pack, prop, fuel pump, water pump, and with compression as good as it is, hoping it can be salvaged.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Usually the water comes from a corroded hole in the very corner in the exhaust area if it's not coming from a gaslet. The problem with JB Weld or Marine Tex is that you have to get that area really really clean. The carbon gets into the metal and makes it kinda hard for the stuff to stick. Clean it up and even grind a little around the hole to get to good clean metal. That'll give it a fighting chance.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Threw up some photo's:

Click thumbnail to enlarge, use back in browser to go back to thumbnails
http://www.robstv.com/Evinrude/

Nothing has been cleaned yet, just took it apart.
For photo's, placed some parts temporarily were they went.

Inserts are what I can not find in any manual or on line. Baffle Plates?
Confirmed as not needed?
Seems they direct the exhaust through the upper part of manifold (which is then cooled some) then goes into the lower portion of the manifold to exit. If inserts are removed, exhaust will not really go through curved portion, and will not be cooled?.? It will go straight to bottom and out.

You can see the hole on right side. What is on other side of hole?
You can also see to the right of the hole were another small portion has corroded away, between where insert goes and exhaust port.

Another photo shows lower block where cooling water flows (?). It shows two openings, but the one that is corroded does not appear to do anything, so looks like not important.

Thanks for taking the time to look and reply.

Rob

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

I'm pretty sure that big hole is going right into the water cavity. Take the flwheel off, then that plate on top and look down inside.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Small hole you say? That's totally awful!! That goes into the water gallery between the cylinder V. It's dumping water right into the exhaust ports. Sorry to be a harbinger of bad news, but that motor's had it.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

It was smaller, less than the size of a pea, until I took a screwdriver and pried away any part of it that moved. Don't be fooled by the photo's. It still is small enough that most car keys would not fit into it.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

A pin hole will trash the powerhead. Wishing you luck. You will need it.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Thanks for the good luck wish!

Again, I think problem was found before it caused any additional damage.
Motor does run great after it starts, and with a dry cylinder, it starts fast and easy.
We sprayed some lithium grease lube into cylinders couple weeks ago to preserve while we service.
Everything moves easy, and cylinders look great ('70's motor compression 150 PSI still).
Also, forgot to mention carbs were rebuilt, and lower unit is perfect.
15 years of storage makes it closer to a 20 year old motor than a 30 year old motor.
We could get a 1990 motor and find it in much worse shape.
With high compression test results used as an indication of good internal condition, light wear, this problem came as a surprise, as no way to tell it before hand without disassembly.
So really, this hole is only problem, and I agree it is a severe problem, but to me, it looks patchable.

Couple thoughts slightly off topic.
With our '73 Wellcraft V20, the '75 135 HP seemed a little on the slow side.
Here on gulf side of Florida, we need to go out 15+ miles just to hit 40-50ft of water
We propped it for best results.
Knew we would replace motor at future time.
Mechanical repair is a non-issue, as we have a 4 bay garage in our backyard.

I would always rather spend $1000 on something and sink $1500 in parts into it, than I would spend $2500 on something someone else has supposedly done up right, then still might end up having to sink $1500 into it as well.

The big question:
If you were to spend less than $1000 ($600-$800) on a used motor to push the V20, with the idea that you hope motor is good and will last, but if not, you will have no problem spending another $1000 -$1500 on parts to rebuild it yourself, what motor would you choose to invest time and money into? I am seeing around 1985 era 140 V4 and 150 GT V6 in this range, that say they are in good shape. Parts are getting harder to find for the '75 135 HP, (such as Tilt/Trim cylinder).I am leaning towards the 150GT for the little extra power, and hoping since it is more modern, better economy and parts availability. Good plan?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[F_R]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Hey, Rob, I can't answer the "Big Question", the newer stuff gets out of my line. But just one more comment for whatever it worth -or not- I have seen 135s with exhaust area eaten up while still in warranty. Have replaced a couple of powerheads under waranty for that reason. So, having gone this long ain't too bad.

Where are you on FL Gulf Coast, if you don't mind saying? I'm in Sarasota.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

New Port Richey here.

I'm looking at a replacement motor later today, and if it checks out, I guess I start over again with the basics........

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

A V20 + 15 miles out -- I'd look at nothing less than a 60* V6 for that boat.

 

[RobsTV]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

Just to update my last post.
V20 is center console.
Wish I could have found a decent 60* V6 for under $1000.

Did find an '86 Johnson 150 GT for $800 on Graigslist tampa area, "sat for 3 years, tossed in plugs, runs great". After driving out there, was a waste of time. Not even worth $200. No compression in one cylinder, thin white milk in LU. LU butchered and banged up. Wiring a mess with cuts and splices everywhere. Very disappointed, and realized it might be tough finding a good used motor under $1000. Also came to conclusion that ebay would be worse, since you are committed at least for the deposit, site unseen.

Then called on another from Graigslist Tampa, a '84 Evinrude 175 (last year non-VRO). Was $800, then $700, now $600. Guy had in fresh water bass boat, never seen saltwater, and moved it to a cuddy cabin project, but after hanging, discovered he needed a 25". Right after that he inherited Mako with 225HP and trailer, so the project was over. This motor was extra clean, and is now mine for only $400. Soon to be on the V20.

For now, am still attempting repair of the 135HP to use over next couple months, then will lightly go through the 175HP and swap for future use.

 

[Fl_Richard]

Re: 1975 135HP Exhaust Baffle Plate part #?

I'm not going fishing with you. There's only one way I'd be out on a boat with an engine in that condition. DEAD! Or Dead in the water

Sorry but that looks realllllly bad!