I have done all I can do for now with my motor and this is the final assesment. I got her out on the water yesterday. She still will not idle at less than 1100 rpm. After replacing the rectifier my tach read higher values and I believe they are correct based on my my latest tests.
In my 1973 fiberglass tri-hull bass boat (that weighs a ton!!!) I was getting 40mph at a WOT of 5400. Without any trim capabilities I think 40 is pretty good.
{And by the way I brought at my GPS unit to confirm my speed. Surprisingly it read within +/- 1mph as compared to my paddle-wheel speedometer on my depth finder. I am impressed by how excellent this paddle-wheel compared to the GPS unit at all speeds.}
So she works good at high speed but my idle rpm, as stated above, can not go below 1100 (about 900 when in gear). It just dies.
So my question right now is, Can I get good WOT performance if my timing is off by about 3 degrees (directly reads 19, should read 16) as my WOT timing tests indicate? Based on your answers, I need to decide what to have (so pay for) a mechanic examine. I don't need to pay someone to pursue a non-issue. thanks in advance for your help.
In my 1973 fiberglass tri-hull bass boat (that weighs a ton!!!) I was getting 40mph at a WOT of 5400. Without any trim capabilities I think 40 is pretty good.
{And by the way I brought at my GPS unit to confirm my speed. Surprisingly it read within +/- 1mph as compared to my paddle-wheel speedometer on my depth finder. I am impressed by how excellent this paddle-wheel compared to the GPS unit at all speeds.}
So she works good at high speed but my idle rpm, as stated above, can not go below 1100 (about 900 when in gear). It just dies.
So my question right now is, Can I get good WOT performance if my timing is off by about 3 degrees (directly reads 19, should read 16) as my WOT timing tests indicate? Based on your answers, I need to decide what to have (so pay for) a mechanic examine. I don't need to pay someone to pursue a non-issue. thanks in advance for your help.