1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

[69 Alumacraft]

While changing plugs the wire coil that sits inside the rubber spark plug housing came out. Can this be put back in or do I need a whole new coil?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

(Replacing Regular Spark Plug Wires)
(J. Reeves)

If you also need the spark plug boots and the spring terminals that connect to the spark plugs, purchase them from your local dealership (OMC Part #581027). This includes one boot and one spring connector. Price is about $3.25ea.

Purchase whatever amount of spark plug wire you need. Be sure to purchase the kind that has a steel twisted wire leading through the center of it....... not the carbon type plug wire that many automobiles now use.

Using your old plug wire, cut the new wire to a length about 3/4" to 1" longer. If you have no old plug wire, just make sure that the wire is longer than you'll need as you can trim the other end later.

The rubber boot, spark plug end.... With the wire cut to the length required, trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above. Holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire. Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes).

Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project. That's it.... you're done.

 

[69 Alumacraft]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

Still not sure what you mean. Is it possible to put this back together?The coil is new. My problem is getting the coiled wire back into the rubber spark plug housing and figuring out how the prong attaches to the wire. When I was checking the plugs the coil came out of the rubber housing, not sure how to get it back in without ruining the rubber. Any help appreciated, I bought the Seloc manual but still a novice.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

Having the plug wire and the coiled wire end out of the rubber plug, read over closely the last 'edited" paragraph of my reply (below).

The rubber boot, spark plug end.... Fan out the wires on the end of the spark plug wire and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess wire strands off if any so that they aren't extending past the wire's diameter.

Now, holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire when you swing it in front of the wire where it will stay.

Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes).

Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project. That's it.... you're done.

That's about the best I can explain the process.

 

[69 Alumacraft]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

Thank you very much . I will give it a shot.

 

[69 Alumacraft]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

Seems to have worked , got engine to run. I think I have carb issues. Thanks again!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1975 25hp Rude Spark Plug wire

Make sure the brass high speed jet, located in the bottom center portion of the float chamber, is clean..... not clogged, gummed, etc.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.