Ok, I have asked a couple of time and then went off to work on some peoples suggestionss, but this problem is still here. I am more confused now then ever. We have replaced all the coil packs, and this thing still gives us only about 5-10 mins of good run time before it starts to bog down. We have done a tell-tale mod to it to ensure proper cooling and it works great. So cooling issue seems to be out of the equation.
We checked readings on the stator and the matched most used stator readings I have found from postings online, which was 1.1 ohms between the rectifier wiring and 624 ohms on brown to brown/orange going to the power pack. The only thing we recently found was that the red wire on the rectifier no longer had any insulation on it and we removed the whole rectifier to ensure it wasn't affecting the stator. Still same problem. We can run it for the mentioned times, then we have to shut it down and hope we are near a place we want to fish. After staying there a while, we can move on until it happens again. We have tried pumping the bulb when it happens, but the bulb is still firm and changes nothing. There was one occasion that it started doing it about 50 yards from the dock after putting it in the water for that day, so we don't always get the times I mentioned but we usually do. Even when the engine is acting up, we can throttle it up in neutral and it seems to rev good, but in gear and under a load, it won't push the boat and seems to have a miss.
We pulled the flywheel and checked the stator and looked at the timing base, and both looked to be in good shape. No signs of either hitting the flywheel and the stator showed no signs of cracks or burns. I was thinking that it was the stator, but after looking at the readings, I have my doubts. But I can't really tell too much on this one as it is the older style which is completely enclosed so I cannot see the windings.
We really need some help here. We are ready to buy a part, we just want to make sure we buy the right part. we are getting into the expensive parts now. Right now I am trying to decide whether or not to go for a new Stator, Timing Base, or Power Pack. Unless someone has something else to check for before shotgunning parts for the motor.
We checked readings on the stator and the matched most used stator readings I have found from postings online, which was 1.1 ohms between the rectifier wiring and 624 ohms on brown to brown/orange going to the power pack. The only thing we recently found was that the red wire on the rectifier no longer had any insulation on it and we removed the whole rectifier to ensure it wasn't affecting the stator. Still same problem. We can run it for the mentioned times, then we have to shut it down and hope we are near a place we want to fish. After staying there a while, we can move on until it happens again. We have tried pumping the bulb when it happens, but the bulb is still firm and changes nothing. There was one occasion that it started doing it about 50 yards from the dock after putting it in the water for that day, so we don't always get the times I mentioned but we usually do. Even when the engine is acting up, we can throttle it up in neutral and it seems to rev good, but in gear and under a load, it won't push the boat and seems to have a miss.
We pulled the flywheel and checked the stator and looked at the timing base, and both looked to be in good shape. No signs of either hitting the flywheel and the stator showed no signs of cracks or burns. I was thinking that it was the stator, but after looking at the readings, I have my doubts. But I can't really tell too much on this one as it is the older style which is completely enclosed so I cannot see the windings.
We really need some help here. We are ready to buy a part, we just want to make sure we buy the right part. we are getting into the expensive parts now. Right now I am trying to decide whether or not to go for a new Stator, Timing Base, or Power Pack. Unless someone has something else to check for before shotgunning parts for the motor.
