1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

[Yooks]

Hi there. First off, thanks very much for all the help this forum has been to me. I've been working on my project engine, a 1976 Evinrude 9.9. I'm new to motor rebuilds and am using this engine to learn on. I've purchased a shop manual and a parts catalog, which are a big help.

I now have the major components of the engine apart and I have a few questions.

Lower Unit:
- Question 1) If I drain the gearcase oil, is it ok to pull the driveshaft clear out of the lower unit? I wanted to ask in case this was a bad idea.

The gearcase oil looks like a milkshake (water in the oil). I'd like to try to repair this, but I do not want to completely tear down the lower unit.

- Question 2) If I can pull the driveshaft out completely, it seems like replacing the driveshaft seals would be a fairly simple task. Is that true? Can anyone recommend a seal puller for this job?

If that's the case, then I think I will replace the driveshaft seals, run the motor and check for water in the oil. If the problem persists, then I'll move on to replacing the prop shaft seals, which appear to be a somewhat bigger job.

Motor Mounts:
The motor mounts did not have washers beneath them. I'd like to replace them.

- Question 3) Can I simply buy replacements at Home Depot? If so, what type of metal should I use? Stainless, zinc-coated steel, non-zinc coated steel?

Exhaust Cover, Water Cover and Bypass Cover:
I'm going to replace these gaskets.

-Question 4) Do I need to add any kind of sealant or oil to the gasket when I replace them, or do they go on "dry"?

-Question 5) When replacing the bolts on these covers, should I use an anti-seizing compound to the bolts to keep them from locking up inside? Would this negatively affect the electrical performance of the bolt that is used as a ground?

Exhaust Housing Upper Mount Screws:

The four screws that attach the Exhaust Housing to the Upper Mount are very corroded. I am replacing the Exhaust Housing because one of the lower unit screws was broken off in it before I owned the engine. I'd like to salvage the Upper Mount Assembly for use in the new Exhaust Housing. In the new Exhaust Housing I'll use stainless bolts with an anti-corrosion paste.

- Question 6) Can anyone recommend a way to remove these badly corroded screws?

Kill Switch:

I'd like to replace the kill switch with a lanyard type kill switch.

- Question 7) Can anyone recommend an after market kill switch that is simple to install? Seadog, Cole Hersee, Sea Choice and Sierra all make after market lanyard kill switches. I'd like to know if anyone has any experience installing one of these on a motor that is similar to mine. Any suggestions on how to wire one up? Some of the instructions say they can be configured for either "Magneto kill or Ignition kill". My 76 is a magneto type of ignition system.

Thanks again for all your great advice. I'm really enjoying learning about how these things work.

 

[Rick.]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

1. No problem. you need to remove the water pump before pulling the drive shaft. I would suggest you just replace the crush washers on the vent/drain/fill screws. Often times this is the source of water intrusion. Then monitor your oil and replace the seals if water intrusion is found.
2. Not a bad idea. I've never replaced the D.S. seal but many have I'm sure.
3. Use stainless. Home depot would likely have the size you would need.
4. I normally go with dry. Must be dry for head gasket.
5. I use anti seize. I doubt it would affect there electrical conductance.
6. Removing twisted off bolts Many excellent articles written by this author. Read them all and you will have a much better idea/understanding of how to perform many repairs. I consider leeroys ramblings a must read if you own a 9.9 OMC.

I've replaced a few kill switches on 9.9's and 15's and even a 9.5 with lanyard kill switch. I think it is a great idea from a safety point of view. I used the seadog universal switch. It fits perfectly into the same hole as the original kill switch and sues the same wires.

Hope this helps and best of luck. Rick.

 

[kodibass]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

x2 great reply rick, I have also used the seadog mob switch and for the money like them. the only other thing is I have read a few threads on here saying to use the correct anti-seize ? from what I gather some anti-seize are copper based & don't like aluminum? the pro's on here can confirm. also I like to use a very slight amount of permatex aviation gasket sealer for my port/exhst gaskets thats just me tho.

 

[Yooks]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

Thanks all. Speaking of permatex...

I have removed the top seal on the engine using LeeRoy's suggested method of driving screws into the seal to pull it out. I was a bit rough, however, and left some marks around the upper edge of the powerhead where the new seal will need to be installed. The area that the seal will seat against is smooth, but I'm wooried that when I reseat the seal the outer metal edge will be scored and thus not provide a perfect seal. I have sanded the area as well as possible. To assure a good seal, would it be ok to add a thin layer of permatex #2 to the outside edge of the seal before i seat it?

Any suggestions on a seal installer?

 

[Rick.]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

If your talking about the upper crankshaft seal then it would not hurt but will make it more difficult to pull next time around. I'm not sure using the screw method if Leeroy intended to reuse the seal. It would be better if you used better part descriptions. Go here and you need to just keep drilling down to find a parts break down of you engine model. I picked up this seal puller this summer and have only pulled one upper crankshaft seal with it and it worked very well but like I said I've only tried it once and that was on a 6HP. Rick.
BRP -- Parts Catalogs
Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

[Yooks]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

No, I don't intend to reuse the seal. It was trashed in the process of removing it. I've already purchaged a new one, part # 0321830.

When I drove the screws into the metal part of the seal, I got a bit too close to the lip of the crankshaft hole made by the joined halves of the cylinder crankcase assembly (part # 0386460), and scored the upper lip a bit. I assume the crank case is made of aluminum? It's pretty soft.

The area directly around where the seal will seat is still smooth and unscored. I am just worried that when I reinserted the seal into the crank shaft hole that the metal around the seal would in turn be scored that was scored by the upper edge of the crankcase, potentially resulting in leaks around the outer edge of the seal. But it appears that the top seal is made of steel and would probably not be damaged by the aluminum crankcase assembly anyway.

Are there any galvanic corrosion concerns with having the steel seal next to the aluminum crankcase?

As you say, it probably wouldn't hurt to put a bit of permatex on there for good measure. If I have to replace the seal again I'll crack the crankcase and do a ring job while I'm at it.

That seal puller looks like a good solution. I'll definately buy one of those before trying something like this again.

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

[raczekp1]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

use some silicon in this scored block area

 

[Yooks]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

As in silicone sealant? I assume that you would use either silicone or the permatex, but not both, would you?

Another question. The bolts holding on the exhaust and bypass covers are corroded. What type of bolts should I replace them with, stainless? Regular steel machine bolts and paint?

Thanks!

 

[Rick.]

Re: 1976 Evinrude 9.9 questions

I would use permatex over silicone but only because I'm not sure how silicone stands up to oil/gas. Certainly no need for using both. I would use stainless if you can get them. Rick.