1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

[Black Max]

I purchased a 15ft 1976 Hydra-Sport bass boat a few years back for $200. I re-did the boat and motor. Since then I've caught close to a thousand fish out of my $200 charm. This coming spring I plan on beginning to fish a few local bass tournaments. I just want to make this old baby beautiful. Not only to appear contendable against all the 22 ft bass boats at the tourneys, but also to catch the eye of some southern beauty's out on the water. Its painted with West Marine Sea Gloss White paint, and is starting to look pretty ugly. Im looking for a high gloss automotive style finish, topped with two or three coats of some type of clear. THinking about a sexy metallic silver hull and interior with charcoal carpet and charcoal hull stripe. I hope ya'll guru's can provide me with some good ideas and suggestion of products. Thanks, Black Max.

 

[lenny2113]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

Hey Black Max, <br />I would go with Awl-Grip or Imron paints.<br />I have personaly sprayed single part "Interolux Brightside Polyurethane". It is beautiful paint and looks awesome, but I personaly think it is a bit too soft for a boat's hull. <br />There are tons of posts on this subject. Do a search on "painting" and you will have a week worth of great educational reading material.<br />I remember posting a relatively large step by step progress of painting my 17' Galaxy.<br /><br />Surface preparation is a key to the whole look of the final result. It takes 10-15 minutes to spray one coat of paint. Spend all your time for preparation. Start out with 100-150 grit sand paper and a sand block. Think about getting an orbital sander. I used $30 bucks "Ryobi" (from HomeDepot). Fill deep scratches with a marine filler. I used 2 part "Interolux" filler. It is easy to work with. Marine-Tex is a good filler also. <br />Sand, sand and sand some more. <br />Coat with primer. Let cure<br />Sand with 220 grit<br />Apply 1st coat of selected paint.<br />Let cure.<br />All sanding work from this point need to be done with sand block or by hand. <br />Lightly sand with 320 grit.<br />Apply 2nd coat of paint and let paint dry.<br />Lightly sand with 320 grit.<br />After final coat of paint sand surface with 500 grit wet paper. If you hear squicking noise from paper, then it needs water. Use soapy water.<br />Finish with 1000 grit wet sanding.<br />Buff with compound and follow by polishing paste.<br />Wax/seal.<br />Put the boat in the water and have fun !!!<br />I hope it helps you.<br /> <br />Post with your progress on this task.<br />Remember, spend your time on surface prep.<br />I thought painting a 17 footer would be a 2 day project. Well... it would look like a 2 day project. Beauty of final result will be well worth the time spent on preparation.<br /><br />Good Luck!<br />Lenny

 

[Black Max]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

Any suggestions on some type of clearcoat, or will the paint do the trick, The Sea Gloss got dirty fast and doesn;t come clean. Just looking for added protection so the paint would look gloss for longer. POR-55 or Clear 44 or something?

 

[Black Max]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

I read a lot of health precautions dealing with Imron and Awl-Grip, I have a shop about 100 yards in the back yard with double doors, could I pull it off safely in there. Anyone think House of Kolor Shirmin Metallic base coat would hold up under a few coats of clear? It would be cheaper than Imron, from what I've read.

 

[Realgun]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

I suggest you hone your fishing skills and win a new boat. Imron will work for you however you will not want to leave the boat in the water for too long. Prep is the key as stated above. Good Luck.

 

[Black Max]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

Realgun, thats my exact plan. To win tournaments and upgrade my rig to a beautiful 22ft Bullet with a 200 Merc. I have caught thousands of bass and have placed in national tournaments on the non-boater side, just need to get started with a boat so I can bring in the cash. I just want to look half decent doing it. I'm sure I will bring tears to the eyes of the rich fellows with there $30,000 rigs, with my $200 restored beauty that runs like a champ. You'll see me on the Bassmaster CLassic Podeum in 5 years, mark my words!!! No type of clear needed?

 

[LubeDude]

Re: 1976 Hydra-Sport Paint

Lenny has done a really great job of letting you know the way to do it.<br /><br />I have been in the Autobody business forever it seems, and have seen everything fail for one reason or another.<br /><br />Boat painting is entirely different than a car in my oopinion. First off, I do not like to use a primer on the hull, It will be the weakest link in the finish. It will allow the paint to chip easier if you hit something as it is soft and will allow a separation if you gouge it with something. Imron is a great product but Dupont dosnt recomend its use below the waterline. I think it is a (Cover your AZZ) thing though as I have painted several boats with it and have had NO failures. Its the Clear that offers your protection, and it doesnt matter what you use for a base coat as long as it is compatable with the Clear. Imrons clear is by far the toughest clear there is that I know of. It is "VERY" bad to breath, so make sure you use proper ventalation. It is also extremly difficult to polish, you deffinatly do not want to try and pollish it buy wet sanding with "ANYTHING" Coarser than 2,000-2,500 grit wet, and as far as soapy water, that means just a few drops of dish washing deturget, not a full squirt.<br /><br />Hope this Helps.