Hello Guys,
I have 2 specific questions at the bottom of this post.
Brief History: I have not had reverse in this boat since purchasing it about 1 year ago. The suspected reason was the previous owners "creative solution" to replacing the shift cable (AKA "redneck it"):
Symptom: The unit would shift into forward and neutral without issue, but when I would pull the lever back, it would make a clicking sound and would only reverse very slowly.
I asked about it on this fourm and was told the possibilities include:
- bad cable (length etc)
- possible bad clutch dog
Due to another issue I had to go into the lower unit anyway this weekend:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272197
And decided to check on the clutch-dog while I was there.
After droping the lower unit I noticed that:
- pulling the shift rod up engaged foward (prop would only turn one direction)
- pushing down hit netural no problem (prop shaft turned both ways)
- but was not able to push down into reverse easily
(However, truth be told at this point in the process I did not have a full grasp of how the parts worked, so I did not push down on the shift rod to forcefully)
Removed the shift rod/housing
removed from the prop to reverse gear
removed the prop shaft and shift/rod/assist solenoid
Examined the clutch-dog
- There is not signs of water or corrosion
- The clutch dog will slide forward, neutral, reverse, but it is very stiff
- All gears on internal side of clutch dog are fine
- Forward side of clutch dog is fine
- Some earmarking on reverse side of clutch dog.
Examined reverse gear. Same story, earmarking but more than 1/2 the tooth is still left
put reverse gear on prop shaft, when clutch dog is FULLY engaged in reverse the teeth match up ok, dont slip. Suspect the ear marking was caused by the bad cable length preventing the clutch dog from fully engaging.
Decided to grease up the clutch dog
(WAS this a bad move? Should I clean it up and just let the oil do its thing?)
After applying grease found the clutch dog much easier to move forward and reverse.
Decided at this point to reassemble and test (and this is where I hit the wall)
I was able to remove those retaining rings with a long pair of needle nose pliers
As you might guess there is no way on earth they are going back in with this tool.
I am currently waiting on a friend of a friend who has a pair of snap ring pliers he will let me borrow tonight. When I have the ring(s) back (and I understand the danger of these rings) in place my logic is that if I can engage the shift rod up/middle/down and the prop shaft moves as expected then I can survive without replacing clutchdog/reverse gear (assuming the prop turns only the direction expected)
(I dont want to pay 500 bucks for those two parts considering I only spent 1000 on the boat)
However, my specific questions are:
1. Was greasing the clutch dog a stupid move?
2. On the shift rod there is what the book calls and "Assist Solenioid". I cant seem to get my brain around what exactly this does. Can anyone explain that part to me?
Thanks
Roy
I have 2 specific questions at the bottom of this post.
Brief History: I have not had reverse in this boat since purchasing it about 1 year ago. The suspected reason was the previous owners "creative solution" to replacing the shift cable (AKA "redneck it"):
Symptom: The unit would shift into forward and neutral without issue, but when I would pull the lever back, it would make a clicking sound and would only reverse very slowly.
I asked about it on this fourm and was told the possibilities include:
- bad cable (length etc)
- possible bad clutch dog
Due to another issue I had to go into the lower unit anyway this weekend:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272197
And decided to check on the clutch-dog while I was there.
After droping the lower unit I noticed that:
- pulling the shift rod up engaged foward (prop would only turn one direction)
- pushing down hit netural no problem (prop shaft turned both ways)
- but was not able to push down into reverse easily
(However, truth be told at this point in the process I did not have a full grasp of how the parts worked, so I did not push down on the shift rod to forcefully)
Removed the shift rod/housing
removed from the prop to reverse gear
removed the prop shaft and shift/rod/assist solenoid
Examined the clutch-dog
- There is not signs of water or corrosion
- The clutch dog will slide forward, neutral, reverse, but it is very stiff
- All gears on internal side of clutch dog are fine
- Forward side of clutch dog is fine
- Some earmarking on reverse side of clutch dog.
Examined reverse gear. Same story, earmarking but more than 1/2 the tooth is still left
put reverse gear on prop shaft, when clutch dog is FULLY engaged in reverse the teeth match up ok, dont slip. Suspect the ear marking was caused by the bad cable length preventing the clutch dog from fully engaging.
Decided to grease up the clutch dog
(WAS this a bad move? Should I clean it up and just let the oil do its thing?)
After applying grease found the clutch dog much easier to move forward and reverse.
Decided at this point to reassemble and test (and this is where I hit the wall)
I was able to remove those retaining rings with a long pair of needle nose pliers
As you might guess there is no way on earth they are going back in with this tool.
I am currently waiting on a friend of a friend who has a pair of snap ring pliers he will let me borrow tonight. When I have the ring(s) back (and I understand the danger of these rings) in place my logic is that if I can engage the shift rod up/middle/down and the prop shaft moves as expected then I can survive without replacing clutchdog/reverse gear (assuming the prop turns only the direction expected)
(I dont want to pay 500 bucks for those two parts considering I only spent 1000 on the boat)
However, my specific questions are:
1. Was greasing the clutch dog a stupid move?
2. On the shift rod there is what the book calls and "Assist Solenioid". I cant seem to get my brain around what exactly this does. Can anyone explain that part to me?
Thanks
Roy
