1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

fishinrado

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
137
ok , onward..... ordered my manual but have a few ?'s in the interim since most of the cables and wiring is cut.
oil mix is it 50:1 ? can i use spray carb cleaner to clean out the old bs or just disasemble and clean? on a simple 16' f-glass with this 150 was there just one origional battery? what would i need for c c amps? there is a small black plastic closed cylinder (was hanging from the steering helm) with a ground wire and an orange wire that runs to the engine block wiring harness that's labeled "heat" . both wires come off of the back of the starter key. what the heck is this??
thnx all........
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: 1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

Mix is 50 to 1 using a TCW3 marine grade oil with the gas. Spray carb cleaner is alright however it might harden the rubber. Chances are though that the rubber is already like plastic on that motor and rebuild kits will be needed. When cleaning the carbs do one at a time and dont mix parts from one unit to the other. They may be jetted differently. Pay close attention to the idle circuits of the carb. There is a mixture idle adjust screw on the top of the carb. When you remove this follow where the screw was an you will see a welsh plug covering three tiny holes. Clean those holes out real good with carb cleaner and a thin piece of wire and compressed air.

Battery should be around 500 cca and should be a dedicated starting marine battery. Until you commit to dumping money into this you might be able to use a car battery for trouble shooting if you can figure how to tie the battery leads to a car battery so that you get good enough contact to start it. Down the road if you get an electric trolling motor you will need a deep cell battery for that .

Orange wire at the dash is typically an alarm or horn to let you know you just fried your motor. It may also serve as a relay to cut off the motor when it overheats. For troubleshooting I would disconnect it. When you have motor operational re connect it and see if it works.
 

fishinrado

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
137
Re: 1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

OK , GREAT! haven't had a boat in a few years so can't remember all the little stuff. could be the wife and 3 kids taking up all what's left of my sanity though........yea it makes sense that the plactic deal is a kill switch or small buzzer for overheating , hense wired to "heat" on the motor!
any idea why i would have champion racing plugs (no resiter) in her? do they run hotter maybe?
also i found that the purple wire coming of the block from the "generator" slot was disconnected and taped up prior to reaching the group wiring at the key......is this a tell-tail sign of something??
thnx again!
 

JUSTINTIME

Captain
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
3,284
Re: 1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

any idea why i would have champion racing plugs (no resiter) in her

if u have a radio or VHF or even fishfinder u will get feedback when engine is running
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: 1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

Chrysler never specked resister plugs for their outboards. Racing plugs are common on three cylinder chrylsers. Either an L20V or the UL18V which were used on the presto lite ignition systems that later became force.. The purple wire would go to a factory chrysler tach. It is typically just hanging near the ignition switch along with a black wire if you dont have any meters on your dash. The hanging black wire is to provide a motor ground to the dash controls.
 

fishinrado

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
137
Re: 1978 105 CHRYSTLER BASICS AND MORE?

BRILLIANT! now i'm getting somewhere. was able to retrace and find all of the cut wiring and temporarily hook up lights , horn , windshield and even a chrome beam light that's mounted to the bow on a ball swivel ! hard to believe it all works. to my surprise the old tilt switch (cut like all the other wires) operated the tilt motor (wires cut only and inch or so out of wire exit hole on top side of pump) after i rewired the whole thing together. obviously the motor on the boat is not the origional. the motor is a 78 while i'm guessing the boat is from the eary 70's. the old motor bracket holes are about 3 inches wider that that of this motor and the steering holes are on the port side and now it's mounted on starboard.
 
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