1979 johnson 115 loss of power

6052dt

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Jun 20, 2003
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My 79 115 hp has low power at wot, It starts fine, idles good and seems to want to take off, then slows and stays at about 2000 -2500 rpm. If I fiddle with the stick I can get it to rev a little higher, but it will never go wide open. I recently pulled the jets, one was totally plugged, cleaned and replaced. Replaced and gapped the plugs.drained most of the old fuel, replaced with 91 octane at 50-1 mix. Went to the lake yesterday, still the same problem, but I noticed the tach would stop working intermittently and the gas guage would pin at full, Tank was only half full. Does this sound like fuel system or electrical? any help would be great, thanks ;)
 

grcsomd

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Jul 1, 2003
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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Sounds like you may have dropped a cylinder. I had this problem more than once with my 77 Johnson 115. One time it was a blown head gasket in one cylinder. If you take out all your plugs, you may see one or more steam cleaned and that will show which head gasket is blown. The other time I had varnished up the rings in one cyl. After rebuilding the carbs (didn't help) I had to use a compression guage to determine which one, and had to have the powerhead soaked with decarboning tuner/motor cleaner to bring the compression back up. <br /><br />George
 

6052dt

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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Dropped a cylinder!! that sounds baaad! If thats the problem, do I have to rebuild the motor? If its a blown head gasket what needs to be done?<br /><br />THX DT
 

OBJ

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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

605....Do a compression test to determine if a cylinder is bad. If your compressions are withing 5psi of each other, pull the carbs for a complete overhaul. Just pulling the jet and cleaning it may not have been enough. Flush the fuel system also and make sure the tank is clean and the pick up tube fine mesh screen is still in place.<br /><br />91octane is a little rough on these old girls. I wouldn't go above 89. Don't really need to any way.<br /><br />Good Luck.
 

grcsomd

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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Dropping a cylinder is not always so bad to call for a rebuild. It can be caused by a lot of things, not all of which so bad. If you've ruled out fuel related problems, I have found generally you're looking at:<br /><br />-1 Powerpack/ Coil<br /><br />-2 Loss of Compression<br /> a) Blown Head gasket<br /> b) Stuck Ring(s)<br /> c) Worn cylinder(s)<br /> d) Detonated piston<br /><br />I have had all these conditions in my 77 115, probably in reverse order :) At least once it was my own fault.<br /><br />-1 pull all plugs, turn motor over and check for spark (easier with 2 people)<br />-2 a) check for steam cleaned plug(s)<br /> b,c) compression check<br /> d) Look for molten metal shorting out plug electrode (yes it happened to me)<br /><br />2 b) actually caused my motor to stall out above a certain in-gear RRM. All other scenarios identical to yours, it just seems to hit a wall and will not jump up on plane. Generally this is either fuel, or an unbalanced motor where it can't spin up since one cyl is being carried by the others. For some reason at lower RPMs it is not as noticeable. I know I have rebuilt many carbs, drained fuel and ended up in one of the above scenarios after ruling fuel issues out.<br /><br />Generally when I had 2)c and before 2)d occured, I could start and idle fine, run WOT all day, and then only when hot it would always stall at idle. Generally it would run better in condition 2)c and even 2)d than 2)a or 2)b, but in reality it was in need of much more work.<br /><br />Also I had replaced some fuel line once and it had a kink at a tight turn between the vacuum driven fuel pump and the carbs. In this case it would come up on plane and at WOT give me about 2 minutes before falling off plane due to fuel bowl starvation. If I kept it at only ~75% WOT it would stay up on plane indefinitely. Solution: buy the expensive pre-molded fuel line pieces for those tight turns between fuel pump and carbs.<br /><br />Based on your reports, to take a guess it would seem to me either fuel related or possibly a head gasket blown.<br /><br />George
 

6052dt

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Jun 20, 2003
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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Wow guys, thanks for the info, I will go check the compression, spark etc and let you know whats up. Do I need to put the muffs on whenever I crank the motor? Even with the plugs pulled?<br /><br />Also, if it is a blown gasket, how hard to do it yourself? it looks pretty easy.<br /><br />thx<br /><br />DT
 

Solittle

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Apr 28, 2002
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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Never ever run an outboard without the muffs on. You will fry the impeller quick.
 

6052dt

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Jun 20, 2003
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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

So even when the plugs are pulled and the motor will not run, I still need the muffs on to circulate water through the impeller and engine block while doing a compression test?<br /><br />Also, how do you soak the powerhead to remove carbon buildup? Can this be done by spraying cleaner in through the spark plug hole or does it need to be torn down?<br /><br />As for a blown head gasket, is it basically the same as an automotive head gasket repair? ( pull the head, clean and relace and retorque?)<br /><br />And, Where is the powerpack located?, and whats the best way to check the power pack and coils?<br /><br />thx again<br /><br />DT
 

OBJ

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Dec 27, 2002
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Re: 1979 johnson 115 loss of power

Hi 605...<br /><br />Re-read your post. The problem with your tack and electrical system going bonkers could mean your rectifier is or stator is on the way out. The tach is the indicator. Your engine has a three wire rectifier and is real easy to check. Just disconnect the three leads from the rectifier and us an OHMS meter. Connect the red lead of the meter to the red wire of the rectifier and touch the other rectifier leads with the black lead of the meter. Not the results. Now reverse the meter leads and do the same. If you get a full meter deflection one way and none the other, then the rectifier is OK. Anything else and the rectifier is bad. Also connect one of the meter leads to the rectifier body and touch the other lead to the rectifier leads. Any deflection here means the rectifier is grounded to the case. No good. Replace the rectifier. <br />If your serious about working on the engine, by all means get a manual. It will make things bunches easier.
 
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