1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

[gdc0581]

I'm trying to remove the power head of an 80 Johnson 35 HP. I've removed 4 bolts and the nuts off of two studs. So far, gentle persuasion has not broken anything loose. Looking from below, it looks like any kind of wedge will be lifting the lower cowl off of the exhaust housing or should I say breaking the lower cowl. I don't want to apply too much force until I'm sure I've got all of the attachments off. Have I missed something, or is there some special place to drive a wedge to break this thing loose?

 

[Rayandrewss]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

Only 2 studs ? Did you check your parts diagram ? My 79 35 hp was tough, got everything removed and still had to "coax" the head off....EVERYTHING seemed to be "welded" to everything else along with breaking some things I wish I hadn't. I had 4 studs....2 hidden under the head......best of luck !!!

 

[Sureshot]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

Did you try hitting the side of the powehead with a rubber mallet? That rocking motion back and forth helps to break them loose.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

Is this mtr used in salt water ??

 

[gdc0581]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

Yes the motor was used in salt water, but I think the PO was good about flushing it. I have the gearcase removed and the only difficulty I've had is the stud on the gearcase that goes through the exhaust housing was a bear to get loose. I've used a 5 lb dead blow hammer and hit the side of the block as hard as I'm comfortable with to no avail. These gaskets typically come with sealer on them that acts like glue. I've counted holes in the new gasket and I think there are six for fasteners but sometimes it's difficult to tell if a hole is for water or a bolt. The parts diagram shows 4 bolts and 2 studs, which is what I've removed. I really think I need to pry, but I haven't been able to find somewhere where I won't be prying on the lower cover, which I think won't take much to break. I may see if I can remove the attachments for the lower cover with the power head in place. This might allow me to pry without breaking the cover.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

As long as you have the g/c off try some BRUTE FORCE rocking the p/h side to side. I checked the parts diagrams and if your model # is correct it looks like you have all bolts and ect out. Salt water mtrs can be a bi##h.

 

[gdc0581]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

This project has been put on hold for a couple of days while I attend to some "honey do's". I really don't know how to apply any more brute force than I have already. I've hit the side of the block with a 5 lb dead blow hammer with no success. I'd hate to wollop the block and have a piece of the casting fall off. I don't want to hit the flywheel as I might bend the crank. I've looked and I can remove the front attaching bolts for the lower cover. Given that it is rubber mounted, I think that should allow me to get a wedge in between the block and the exhaust housing. This method has worked well for me on the 9.9 and 15 HP models. Hopefully I can finish my wife's project today and get some time to work on this.

 

[gdc0581]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

Success! I removed the front mounts for the lower pan and was able to drive a small screwdriver a little way into the gasket between the block and exhaust housing.I was then able to get a small wonder bar between one of the bolt heads that holds the crank case together and the lower cover on the port side of the engine. It didn't take too much force because I think I had helped it along with the screwdriver.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1980 Johnson 35 HP power head removal

How much corrosion did you find?