1981 60hp Timing specs and procedure

[captlee]

Have a recently purchased 60 HP Johnson Seahorse Model J60ELCIA. I dont have access to a manual at this time. Was wondering if anyone knew the timing specs and setting procedure. Id like to take the boat out tomorrow to see how it runs but not sure of what the previous owner may have done/messed with. Checked the timing and its 2 degrees at idle and seems to run OK on a set of muffs. Any help is appreciated, thanks

 

[Bosunsmate]

No Title

Ive got one of these. I cant be specific with the timing, i just do mine by ear, and i also check the carb butterfly is fully open at wot then everything else seems to take care of itself. Ive forgotten where max timing advance is as i set it so many years ago and i havent had to adjust it since.
You could find that in here.
http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

The main thing you have to do on this motor. Its crucial actually, is to move the telltale outlet from the bottom of the exhaust housing and place it on the top of the rear crankcase half. This evacuates the airlbubbles that accumulate there and make cylinder one run hot especially at low speeds/idle..
Heres mine you can see the telltale outlet now just under the lifting hook eye
The other thing is a temperature sender, ive sinced removed that as i didntneed to watch temperature anymore

 

[captlee]

Thanks, very helpful link

Whats involved in moving the tell tale? Drill and tap the head? Does it need to be removed to do that? Im not sure if I want to go down that road.Im not sure Im keeping the motor long term.

While checking the bilge I discovered the transom is worse than I originally thought. Im dying to go fishing, but dont want to actually die doing so. I guess the next step is to cut the transom out and replace it. First attempt at it, so Im off the the transom threads!

thanks for the help

 

[Bosunsmate]

yes thats true, i wouldnt die for fishing either. The biggest thing that concerns me on an outboard is the steering failing and the motor then suddenly swinging to its far turning point effectively instantly flipping you out of the boat, hitting your head into whatever on the way and then running you over. Quite a few people have died from that.

But back on to the telltale, yes you need to drill, but not the head, the crankcase above no1 cylinder. Pretty easy just clean out the drill threads often and cover them in grease to collect the drilled metal. If you drill midline back from that lifting eye theres a reasonable gap between the top of the cylinder and the crankcase. If you go slighty off to the side theres even more. I didnt tap mine i just plugged the T with high temp epoxy and its held fine.
However if you plan to sell you can take it easy