1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
So at the end of the season last year I bought a 1989 sea ray 160 with a soft floor and a "good" merc 100hp outboard for real cheap just under $300 with trailer. I stored it in the garage for the winter and worked on the engine a little. New water pump, fuel pump rebuild, filters, replaced some lines, new plugs etc. IO got the motor just about running. It had a hard time staying running and im pretty sure all 4 carbs were gunked up. So that was the next step. I posted the thing for sale and it couldnt have left my driveway faster! Selling boats at the begging of the season is easy as pie! The guy that bought it paid my asking price and paid extra for the parts that I installed. No labor charge of course just cost for me. So I made a decent profit on it.

I used the profit (a little less actually) and bought this new boat which seems to be a really nice package. I think the deal was pretty good too. Either way the boat was bought on profit capitol and the trailer alone is worth what I paid for it if not more! I like wheeling and dealing as you may have guessed.

Thats the back story and now onto the boat!

-1981 Glastron SSV177
-Merc 165 L6 engine (79 hours on hobbs meter?)
-Ezloader trailer in damn near mint condition
- complete storage cover
-bow cover
-bimini top
- looks like a camper top is included as well
- I have all origional manuals for the boat etc etc. sweeet..

Hasnt been run in a few years i imagine but oil is clean and seems to have been winterized (has antifreeze in block) and coolant hoses have clamps removed from someone pouring coolant down them as well.

Just about all of the wood on this boat seems dry and solid. Under all of the seats is dry and looks like new wood but factory new not replaced new. Right in the center of the boat slightly forward of the dog house to the ski locker (right above the fuel tank it seems) is soft and will need to be replaced. However in the bilge I can get my hand underneath and feel the floor right in front and all around and the wood is dry solid and not even dark!. Same with the ski locker I can open that up and feel all the way around solid and dry!. The transom is visable in the bilge especially when the rear cover/cowl is removed (in the pics its slightly off and detached from the rub rail for easy removal) Looking at the wood from the inside its all solid and dry. Tapping from the outside all sounds solid with a small mallet. putting a slight load on the drive yields no felxing in transom and there are no stress cracks etc. The front motor mount traverses the boat in a parallel fashion and the wood can be felt underneath it feels like a brand new 2x6! It looks to me like this boat really hasnt been used much. It was just stored outside and probably had some water sitting and gathering in the middle of the floor at one point.

A few pics:






 
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ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
Re: 1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

The meter reads 79.9 but it seems to be unhooked. Who knows if its correct or not but by looking at this boat I dont think it is too far off.






 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
Re: 1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

Dry seat bottom! They all look like this!


Next week sometime I plan on getting this in the garage and assessing the motor and seeing what I need to get it running. The previous owner who only had it for a short time said it had no spark and he was looking at redoing the points. I have a feeling it may be something with the shift interrupt as well but it shouldn't be too difficult to locate the issue. Its a pretty simple and open setup.

All of the vinyl is there without cracks or any fading really. I all needs a deep cleaning but after some elbow grease I think the interior and the hull will look great!


Ill try to keep this thread updated with my progess
 
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Sparkinator

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
423
Re: 1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

Great looking boat. I always loved those Glastron I/O's growing up.

If you haven't already, I would check those screw holes around the ladder really well. I've read about water intrusion into the transom wood at that point. Those ladders are stressed and flex allowing water to seep into the transom if not properly sealed.
 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
Re: 1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

Thanks!

Sparky Ill take a look at them. Maybe Ill remove them and seal with 3M 5200 or something like that?

Im having a few issues with my truck right now but should have it sorted out. Once I get that done I can get this thing in the garage and start on it, and get the scarab out and go boating!

I was up near lake Champlain yesterday for mothers day brunch and it looked like a beautiful day to be on the water!
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: 1981 Glastron SSV-177 New acquisition

You should core sample the transom, ski locker stringers, and the motor mounts. That's one of the best methods to ensure the wood is dry and sound. Feeling the outside and tapping on it with a mallet will not get the job done. You should be able to stand on the outdrive and bounce on it hard and not get any flex in your transom. Boats of this vintage, if they've been left outside in the elements uncovered usually have issues. She doesn't look to bad but I'd be doing some core samples to make certain that all was well. Before I ventured out into the middle of the lake!!!
 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
Ok so its been a few weeks but i was able to get the boat in the garage and do a little work on it.

I decided to start with the motor since I have not idea its condition besides just inspecting the outside of it which by the way looks very clean and I cant see any cracks in the block or areas of concern. When I first looked at the boat (and towed it home) I looked at the oil and it seemed clean. Supposedly at one point someone winterized the motor. When I winterize my other boat I usually put fresh cheap oil in it for winter storage. Either way I didnt notice any milky oil.

I got the boat home and in the garage. I then check the oil on the dip stick again and it was milky? Weird.... Either way I was planning on draining what ever was in the block and putting some fresh oil in it before i went on. Someone rigged up a nice hose off of the drain hole on the oil pan that you can push through the transom drain hole and drain the engine oil with. This was a neat idea since usually when I pump the oil out it needs to be warm and thinned for the pump to work. I took the cap off of the drain hose and let her rip into my drain pan.... At first what came out was water. Great.... I would say maybe a 1/2 quart of water and then the oil came out. As it all mixed in the drain pan i had a white milky mess.

I changed the oil filter with a cheap one for now and refilling with cheap oil. I wanted to perform a compression test. Long story short I have decent compression in 3 cylinders 125-130psi if i recall. And 2 cylinders have lower like 60-90 and on has just about no compression.

The only thing I really knew about the boat is that "it had no spark" the guy said he was going to redo the points. I believe him because he gave me the point in a bag like he had removed the contact and was going to clean or replace it.

Worst case scenario the long block is all trash. Best case scenario is it has a bad head gasket? I did pull the valve cover and the valve spings and top of the head looked to be in nice clean shape but i know that doesn't mean much.

So my next step is to pull the head and have a closer look at whats going on. My problem is im not sure of the sequence for removing the head. I am trying to locate the factory service manual on this engine but its been difficult to find. I think its the Mercruiser #3 manual does anyone know where i can get a downloadable version?

Anything else I should check first? Do you think I'm going down the wrong path?

Thanks!
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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If it was me...The first thing I'd do is make an outdrive stand, remove the outdrive, and then pull the motor. If it's bad you gotta pull it anyway to put another one in. If it's repairable, easier to do the repairs on a good stand outside the boat. I'm bettin the transom, motor mounts, and stringers will need work as well so the motor would need to come out for that too. My advice...Pull her out!!!;)
 

Willyclay

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Willyclay

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ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
woodonglass - I have an outdrive stand for my Alpha one off of my other boat and since its summer time it is un occupied at the moment. So that's all taken care of. I'm not sure why you suggest pulling the motor as a first step. With the doghouse removed and the rear cowel removed I couldn't have more room to work on this engine in ite current state. Especially since Im just talking about pulling the head to take a closer look at what could be the problem here. Judging by your username you are very much into glass work and reconstruction and that will come for this boat im sure. However I'm tackling one thing at a time. After I can get a better idea of whats going on with the compression i can determine weather or not the motor needs to come out. Doesnt make sense to me to pull the motor and then determine weather or not it needs to come out.. Thats my thought process anyway.

Willyclay - thanks for the link. I am quite familiar with Don's sticky's on the older mercruisers. He was a knowledgeable asses to this forum and he will be missed.

Really what im looking for is a factory service manual that may give me some specific details or methods during the dissasembly process. Specifically sequence of de torquing head bolts as to not cause damage to the head. The manuals he has posted from boat fix i think? are good however you cant download them or print them. It is cumbersome to use the online interface to flip through the pages. That why I was looking for a downloadable version.

Thanks again for your replies. I do appreciate it!
 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
No Title

So I ended up pulling the head finally. I certainly like the setup of the bilge on this boat. I have access to everything with ease. Besides being a little dirty and wet from all the fogging oil I sprayed in during the compression check cylinders and chambers 1-5 look brand new..... seriously. brand new. However cylinder 6 looks like it had water sitting in it for some time. The cylinder walls have some surface rust and so does the cylinder head (top of cylinder). So as suspected this block has to come out and inspected a bit more.

Im trying to determine how the water got in there. Or at least determine if the block is rebuild-able. So far I can not see any cracks on the block or the head. Everything looks very clean and tight. Except for the inside of chamber 6 of course. Even the head gasket looks brand new to me. Im thinking maybe it was installed incorrectly or not torqued properly and the head gasket leaked and water made its way into the crank case and one of the cylinders. It was parked and sat. I did notice that the head bolts towards the rear of the engine (near cylinder 6) were a bit looser then the rest. For the most part all of the head studs were torque on there quite well. I had to use my short breaker bar to break them loose. The few towards the rear of the engine I was able to do with my regular 1/2 drive ratchet. They were still tight but I had much less leverage with the short handle.

Any ideas on how to determine if this block is rebuild-able? Perhaps this is a question I should put in the engine form? It wasn't really clear to me if the dry dock section was just for hull repair or boat repair in general.

Here are a few pictures of the head on and off the motor.
 
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ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
No Title

So I ended up pulling the head finally. I certainly like the setup of the bilge on this boat. I have access to everything with ease. Besides being a little dirty and wet from all the fogging oil I sprayed in during the compression check cylinders and chambers 1-5 look brand new..... seriously. brand new. However cylinder 6 looks like it had water sitting in it for some time. The cylinder walls have some surface rust and so does the cylinder head (top of cylinder). So as suspected this block has to come out and inspected a bit more.

Im trying to determine how the water got in there. Or at least determine if the block is rebuild-able. So far I can not see any cracks on the block or the head. Everything looks very clean and tight. Except for the inside of chamber 6 of course. Even the head gasket looks brand new to me. Im thinking maybe it was installed incorrectly or not torqued properly and the head gasket leaked and water made its way into the crank case and one of the cylinders. It was parked and sat. I did notice that the head bolts towards the rear of the engine (near cylinder 6) were a bit looser then the rest. For the most part all of the head studs were torque on there quite well. I had to use my short breaker bar to break them loose. The few towards the rear of the engine I was able to do with my regular 1/2 drive ratchet. They were still tight but I had much less leverage with the short handle.

Any ideas on how to determine if this block is rebuild-able? Perhaps this is a question I should put in the engine form? It wasn't really clear to me if the dry dock section was just for hull repair or boat repair in general.

Here are a few pictures of the head on and off the motor.
 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
No Title

Im not sure what the deal is with the forum. Its seems every time I post I get an error or something is missing. Here is one more if the pics.. I hope.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Nope posting pics via the forum is currently not working well. Photobucket is your best bet for posting the pics. Use the IMG Code and copy and paste it into your iBoats post.
 

ethan169

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
137
Sorry about the double posts. I get an error saying it didnt post. Sometimes that error is correct other times its not...
 
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