Posted on iboats before but this is a much bigger project.
BACKGROUND ? bought the boat last year because I wanted the stability of a trihull. I had always planned on replacing the back-to-back seats with 2 single chairs because the first and last use is fishing. It took this long to get started because 1. I wanted to make sure I liked the hull, 2. I needed to make sure I could launch and load easily by myself, and 3. I agonized over the fact that this was an almost pristine early 80?s trihull. All the vinyl was in excellent condition and it looked like the boat had never seen rain. When I bought it it had a 1996 registration and some previous owner had done a very expensive and necessary mod to the Chrysler 65. The motor has never failed me even when I stupidly fished too close to rocks. It stared right up and bailed me out a couple times.
So a few pics background.
This is what I started with. The boat was really pretty but 2 people could not stand in the rear while netting a fish.
One thing that troubled me was the fact that I could find no information on the SeaRaider boats beyond the date (1981) and Sandusky OH. I figured it out when I removed the carpets. There were no less than 9 unplugged, unsealed holes in various parts of the floor where they had foamed the boat after assembly and before carpeting. Although the boat and hull were pretty, if one assumes that most of the boats were sold and used in the Great Lake region and the upper Midwest, one good rainstorm and the foam becomes saturated, stringers rot out, then the transom. I?ll bet there aren?t many of these boats left around.
Other indicators of sloppy construction. The carpet was installed before the cap and runs under the front cap section. There is a depression under the front that unfilled guarantees water will flow forward into the void under the cap. I would suspect there might be more unfilled foam hoses.
On the plus side, because this boat never got wet, the floor and transom are really solid. I really like the way the hull responds to wind. The boat is really stable and I can stand up and move around easily. Did I mention that my wife approves of this toy.
THE PROJECT ? install 2 swivel seats, coat hull with kiwi grip, smooth down the sides and texture on the floor, rewire the electrical system, and not a small subproject, reinforce the gunnels and install Scotty 1085 downriggers. A couple side issues ? get the chemical part of the project done while the weather is 70+, get back on the water by October 15 for the fall bite. The rest of the activities can take place this winter under the carport.
I started 9-17 with the carpet removal and began sanding 9-18. Over a few days I went through 15 disks of #40 sand paper and a few sheets hand sanding. As soon as the carpet came off I could see pedestal seats were out of the question. After grinding on it for days I decided to build boxes for storage and to mount the seat swivels on. The only thing really solid to attach to was the side of the hull. With epoxy and screws. After I glass the base to the floor it should work.
You can see the half-a**d way the back-to-backs were mounted and 2 of the foam holes.
looks better. Open foam holes.
Boxes ready for glass. Predrilled to run wires.
Digression on weight ? weight has been bothering me throughout this project. People seem to focus on HP rating but I think weight is the real issue. My boat has a gross weight carrying capacity of 1185# and people capacity of 735#. It is rated for an 85hp motor. I assume the gross weight rating excludes the motor. My present motor weighs about 230# but if I were to install a 1995 Evinrude 75 for example, the motor would weigh in at about 325 ? 350 with cables, controls, tilt/trim, etc. Today I have 200# of deep cycle batteries and when I add a 12 gal Moeller built in gas tank under the transom that is another 100#?s. 350 + 200 + 100 = 650#. 1185 ? 650 = 535# of people and gear I can carry. That is not a lot of capacity when you figure each fisherman in the boat probably has 3 rods and a tackle box, there is a cooler, trolling motor, anchor, ropes, and all manner of stuff under the front seats adding even more weight. It seems to me what I have is a 2 person boat. I would appreciate comments on whether this reasoning is faulty or not.
Back to project ? one reason I chose boxes under the seat is the need to move 2 deep cycle batteries forward from under the motor well. They weigh about 150# and I wanted to balance the boat better. With gas and the deep cycle marine starter battery I already have plenty of weight in the back. That brings me to where I am today.
Next step ? and I need help. I want to cover the entire cockpit with kiwi grip after glassing in the seat boxes. Smooth sides and textured bottom. I have already decided to spend the time and money priming the entire boat. Although I sanded everything it is still a less than desirable surface to bond to. There is bare wood, painted wood, epoxy, old glass (roughened) and new glass (roughened). Most of the threads I have read deal with deck surface. One guy mentioned cutting the kiwi grip with 20% water but I don?t know if that allows painting with a brush rather than troweling and rolling. I need to be able to use a brush under the gunnels. Is that possible.
As I go forward I?ll keep posting.
Thanks for reading.
BACKGROUND ? bought the boat last year because I wanted the stability of a trihull. I had always planned on replacing the back-to-back seats with 2 single chairs because the first and last use is fishing. It took this long to get started because 1. I wanted to make sure I liked the hull, 2. I needed to make sure I could launch and load easily by myself, and 3. I agonized over the fact that this was an almost pristine early 80?s trihull. All the vinyl was in excellent condition and it looked like the boat had never seen rain. When I bought it it had a 1996 registration and some previous owner had done a very expensive and necessary mod to the Chrysler 65. The motor has never failed me even when I stupidly fished too close to rocks. It stared right up and bailed me out a couple times.
So a few pics background.
This is what I started with. The boat was really pretty but 2 people could not stand in the rear while netting a fish.
One thing that troubled me was the fact that I could find no information on the SeaRaider boats beyond the date (1981) and Sandusky OH. I figured it out when I removed the carpets. There were no less than 9 unplugged, unsealed holes in various parts of the floor where they had foamed the boat after assembly and before carpeting. Although the boat and hull were pretty, if one assumes that most of the boats were sold and used in the Great Lake region and the upper Midwest, one good rainstorm and the foam becomes saturated, stringers rot out, then the transom. I?ll bet there aren?t many of these boats left around.
Other indicators of sloppy construction. The carpet was installed before the cap and runs under the front cap section. There is a depression under the front that unfilled guarantees water will flow forward into the void under the cap. I would suspect there might be more unfilled foam hoses.
On the plus side, because this boat never got wet, the floor and transom are really solid. I really like the way the hull responds to wind. The boat is really stable and I can stand up and move around easily. Did I mention that my wife approves of this toy.
THE PROJECT ? install 2 swivel seats, coat hull with kiwi grip, smooth down the sides and texture on the floor, rewire the electrical system, and not a small subproject, reinforce the gunnels and install Scotty 1085 downriggers. A couple side issues ? get the chemical part of the project done while the weather is 70+, get back on the water by October 15 for the fall bite. The rest of the activities can take place this winter under the carport.
I started 9-17 with the carpet removal and began sanding 9-18. Over a few days I went through 15 disks of #40 sand paper and a few sheets hand sanding. As soon as the carpet came off I could see pedestal seats were out of the question. After grinding on it for days I decided to build boxes for storage and to mount the seat swivels on. The only thing really solid to attach to was the side of the hull. With epoxy and screws. After I glass the base to the floor it should work.
You can see the half-a**d way the back-to-backs were mounted and 2 of the foam holes.
looks better. Open foam holes.
Boxes ready for glass. Predrilled to run wires.
Digression on weight ? weight has been bothering me throughout this project. People seem to focus on HP rating but I think weight is the real issue. My boat has a gross weight carrying capacity of 1185# and people capacity of 735#. It is rated for an 85hp motor. I assume the gross weight rating excludes the motor. My present motor weighs about 230# but if I were to install a 1995 Evinrude 75 for example, the motor would weigh in at about 325 ? 350 with cables, controls, tilt/trim, etc. Today I have 200# of deep cycle batteries and when I add a 12 gal Moeller built in gas tank under the transom that is another 100#?s. 350 + 200 + 100 = 650#. 1185 ? 650 = 535# of people and gear I can carry. That is not a lot of capacity when you figure each fisherman in the boat probably has 3 rods and a tackle box, there is a cooler, trolling motor, anchor, ropes, and all manner of stuff under the front seats adding even more weight. It seems to me what I have is a 2 person boat. I would appreciate comments on whether this reasoning is faulty or not.
Back to project ? one reason I chose boxes under the seat is the need to move 2 deep cycle batteries forward from under the motor well. They weigh about 150# and I wanted to balance the boat better. With gas and the deep cycle marine starter battery I already have plenty of weight in the back. That brings me to where I am today.
Next step ? and I need help. I want to cover the entire cockpit with kiwi grip after glassing in the seat boxes. Smooth sides and textured bottom. I have already decided to spend the time and money priming the entire boat. Although I sanded everything it is still a less than desirable surface to bond to. There is bare wood, painted wood, epoxy, old glass (roughened) and new glass (roughened). Most of the threads I have read deal with deck surface. One guy mentioned cutting the kiwi grip with 20% water but I don?t know if that allows painting with a brush rather than troweling and rolling. I need to be able to use a brush under the gunnels. Is that possible.
As I go forward I?ll keep posting.
Thanks for reading.
