1982 Evinerude 9.9hp loosing spark under load

[DamianJP]

Hello everyone

Im going to try and keep it sorted but all the info you need.

E10SELCNS powerhead(1982) on a Model# 10724A mid/Lower(1977)

Carb job/fuel pump and new plugs.
There is slight play in armature plate (up/down).

Idled for 15-20 mins in a barrel with no problem, even when I manually moved the carb arm down to rev. Revved fine and went back to idle and stayed there.

Put it on a jon boat, idle fine again. Went under load for 25-50 feet and died. Hooked up spark checker and it seemed that bottom coil was failing when that happens. Light wasnt as bright and start to skip pulses when symptoms started. Slightly but noticeable.


Did resistance tests , couldn't do some because of special meter/light. Also using a IDEAL 61-340 Multimeter. Can I use AUTO range or do I have to set it? Plus I uploaded a pic of the resistance ranges of unit so someone can tell me if this unit is okay to diagnose this problem(s).

Uploaded a picture of stator too so you know what ignition system im working with. CD Type II w/ sensor coil ?

READINGS SO FAR

Ignition coil
Primary(Should be .05-.15)
TOP .1 to .5 then bounch from .3-.4
BOTTOM .1 to .0 then stays at 0

Secondary (Should be 200-350)
TOP 255
BOTTOM 262

Sensor coil (Should be 30-50)
39.6
No short

Charge coil (Should be 400-550)
489
No short

Sensor coil readings move when flywheel is turned.

Charge coil readings move when both flywheel is turned and when that armature play I spoke of is manipulated.


So far its looking like both bad primary ignition coil readings and need a new Armature Support Bearing part# 0322435.

What is everyones take ? Need some backup/ideas fellas.
Hope I kept it clean and to the point.


Thank you for your time/help,
DamianJP

 

[flyingscott]

That stator is specific to the electric start models. Swap the coils around see if the problem follows.

 

[DamianJP]

Thank you Scott for helping.

My coils have built in feed wires going to a 3 pin connector. Just pull the 2 coil pins out and swap em?

Is that slight up/down motion of armature plate normal? Also when you spin flywheel slow it rotates the armature plate when it aligns with the magnet force i guess. Doesnt feel like it hitting/rubbing.




Thank You,
DamianJP

 

[DamianJP]

Well I got progress.

Last night pulled a all nighter and found the link/ sync for carb lever and timing lobe was out of whack. Also fixed the ignition lines, cut to virgin wire and re crimped the connectors. Also re set the idle speed on water in boat. Then finally the idle stop. Finally in gear forward/reverse and no stalling.

She woke up and had to blow out all the old crap from sitting 2-3 years , plus the new crap from spark and timing out of whack when testing.

Had a 13ft semi V flying good. Felt nice to get her back on the water and not in a closet sleeping. Ran almost a mile down and then back. Alittle loud but then again I havent ran this engine in along time.

Still need to double check *BUT* this is polar opposite from my problems last post.



***Still need to get advice about the slight up/down movement of armature plate.

***My primary readings seemed like the coils failed the tests but the boat is idling good and running strong, I guess I should shut up and leave it alone. But I will be doing these tests in the future. I need to know how to do it the RIGHT way the first shot. Any ideas why primary readings were out of whack?


Thank you Gentlemen,
DamianJP

 

[flyingscott]

Some movement is fine on the stator. Change your waterpump impeller sooner is better than later. Are you using the specs for the electric start stator or the standard stator.

 

[Crosbyman]

if you feel the engine had lots of residue (cr...p) you may want to run some decarb product like Merc Powertune ….some feel Seafoam is good

up 2 u

 

[oldboat1]

Back out of the weeds a bit and get an open air adjustable spark tester like this one:
You should measure about a half inch, strong spark if the ignition is good (both plugs removed for testing). If you see that, remove the flywheel and make sure the keyways line up (no sheared or partially sheared key) -- timing issue. If OK, move on to other systems (carb?). Check compression. BTW, don't rev by opening the throttle without moving the timing/ignition plate (risks a runaway engine).

 

[DamianJP]

Thank you Scott , Crosbyman and Oldboat !!!

Scott: I changed pump before she sat for 1 1/2 years,was worried rubber was crap from sitting but was in climate controlled area. But the test run she was pissing like a race horse. Temps with IR gun around head and other areas were in 135-145 range, alittle here and there fluctuation. Thank you for confirming slight play is fine, was driving me nuts. Specs were for electric start. All test came back good but the primary winding on both coils.But i think i was testing wrong or meter was set wrong. All other test came back %100. But motor runs great , wierd. Seems these older evinrudes/johnson were workhorse/tanks.

Crosby: Yup she still gunked abit, I hear many different ways to seafoam. Whats the best way to get a good complete hot soak on outboards?
I have the spray but want to get fluid too. I was thinking of running fluid through tank , spray in carb and after it dies get some in HOT combustion chamber area and let sit. Use old plugs

Oldboat: Yes I have to get one of these. Im suprised how long I went without this tool. I have lighted ones but I think the jump test is the better.

BTW whats a good compression for a '82 9.9 rude? I know even between cylinders(within %),but was a good number? I heard motors being as low as 65-75psi small rudes running fine. And will a gunked up motor be slightly lower in compression? Crap behind rings?



Thank you again for helping me fellas,
DamianJP

 

[oldboat1]

I get 120-125 on my '82 and '84. I'm a believer in getting it out on the lake and running it to clear it out -- can check compression again after that. (If readings seem low, btw, try another tester for a "second opinion".)