1983 Chrysler 45hp hard to start after running

[CApTaInGoOfy]

So I finally got my boat out on the water yesterday, and it ran good, at least that's what I think. I was surprised on how quiet the motor was at idle in the water. I thought the motor shut off. After running it out of the no wake zone, I increased my speed until eventually I was WOT. I was zipping along the bay, and came to a stop b/c the kids wanted to see the birds that were nesting.

I cut off the engine and we drifted for a couple minutes, then went to start the motor & it wasn't starting. It was turning over and sounded like it wanted to start but would not. I had to almost put the shifter to almost WOT for it to start even at WOT position it needed a couple attempts for it to start. At this point I was on the water for possibly 10 minutes. I then started to head back to the boat ramp.

When I got near the ramp, my curiosity got the best of me, so I cut the engine off again, and waited roughly 15 minutes before trying to start it again. I had to do the same thing again, for it to start. Play with the shifter position between neutral & WOT (both times I had the button pulled out). Headed back to the ramp, and at the ramp the motor cut off on me, after I shifted from reverse to neutral.

Packed the boat,kids,wife & gear up & drove home. At home when I flushed the motor it fired right up first try...

Any thoughts/info would be greatly appreciated.

Info:
1983 Chrysler 45hp
Model: 457H3P
Serial: 1322

These are the only things that I have done on the motor since purchase:
Lower unit oil changed (Mercury SAE 90)
Lower unit seals replaced (Except shift rod seal;not sure how to do this one)

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

Clip of it running

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

Do you guys think it is "peeing" sufficiently? This clip is the motor wide open.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

Changed the plugs ngk 3922. Seems to have solved the hard start after running. Will put it on the water on Monday and find out for sure

 

[wickware]

Did you ck your overheating sensor ?alarm? in the head (orange wire)? With the switch on, ground the orange wire and your alarm should go off if it?s connected (the horn in my case). Did you change the impeller? Are you seeing good cooling water output? I c/n get a good view in the video but felt I saw a downward stream (in the back vs Tell Tale to the side). I am questioning overheating if WOT seems to cause the starting issue.

If the gear linkage position seems to be the issue, take a look at the neutral switch button to know it is pressed in to start. If you are cranking in WOT, I question the linkage positioning for starting and adding fuel.

Are you pushing the switch in to choke the engine while starting ?Cold?? Do you see and hear the choke ?Click? when choking? Do you have an In-Line fuel filter before the fuel pump to see and know you have fuel flowing?

Good Luck On The Water! Deep in a 55 gallon barrel is my quick testing method (starting/idling vs WOT) before driving a dist to get on the water. I do drive to close water before long distance to test in the lake on the trailer or close to the ramp. Testing and tuning a carb in a barrel is not as good as in the lake. On a slow day I never leave the trailer or make a good WOT circle and back to the trailer w/o leaving the ramp.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

Did you ck your overheating sensor “alarm” in the head (orange wire)? With the switch on, ground the orange wire and your alarm should go off if it’s connected (the horn in my case). Did you change the impeller? Are you seeing good cooling water output? I c/n get a good view in the video but felt I saw a downward stream (in the back vs Tell Tale to the side). I am questioning overheating if WOT seems to cause the starting issue.

If the gear linkage position seems to be the issue, take a look at the neutral switch button to know it is pressed in to start. If you are cranking in WOT, I question the linkage positioning for starting and adding fuel.

Are you pushing the switch in to choke the engine while starting “Cold”? Do you see and hear the choke “Click” when choking? Do you have an In-Line fuel filter before the fuel pump to see and know you have fuel flowing?

Good Luck On The Water! Deep in a 55 gallon barrel is my quick testing method (starting/idling vs WOT) before driving a dist to get on the water. I do drive to close water before long distance to test in the lake on the trailer or close to the ramp. Testing and tuning a carb in a barrel is not as good as in the lake. On a slow day I never leave the trailer or make a good WOT circle and back to the trailer w/o leaving the ramp.

wickware Did not know that it had an alarm, not even sure where the alarm noise would come from being that I do not have a horn.
I thought the button had to be pulled out for starting. I tried it both ways push in & pushed out & got the same results.
Impeller was changed.
I do see water output, it kind of sputters when idling but when WOT there is a stream.
I push the the choke in when starting cold & I do hear the choke & see the choke.
I do not have an inline fuel filter.
I put the motor in a trash can bucket & filled it. Let it idle for at least 15 minutes & WOT. I turned the motor off after & it fired right back up with no choke and the lever at neutral.
I do not have a close body of water unfortunately. The closest lake does not have a boat ramp, the one that does has a cap on motor HP of 9.9...

Maybe this is a rookie question, but why is their a difference in a barrel vs body of water? Just curious on the mechanism behind it...

 

[foodfisher]

Back pressure. In a barrel the water depth may be lower combined with exhaust bubbles create less pressure so the exhaust exits more easily?

 

[wickware]

No Title

wickware * Did not know that it had an alarm, not even sure where the alarm noise would come from being that I do not have a horn. It could be a buzzer under the dash. Ground the orange wire at the head?s temp sensor with the switch on and listen and trace. (my horn/indicator went bad.
* I thought the button had to be pulled out for starting. I tried it both ways push in & pushed out & got the same results. My in-dash key ignition is to be pushed in to choke.
* Impeller was changed.
* I do see water output, it kind of sputters when idling but when WOT there is a stream.
* I push the choke in when starting cold & I do hear the choke & see the choke.
* I do not have an inline fuel filter. Verification of fuel and preventing trash/restriction.
* I put the motor in a trash can bucket & filled it. Let it idle for at least 15 minutes & WOT. I turned the motor off after & it fired right back up with no choke and the lever at neutral. Warm it should start w/o choking. WOT in this low volume of water is bad IMO. Are you getting good cooling water at WOT. Deep is a must for my motor?s cooling flow. See my deep 55 barrel attached.
* I do not have a close body of water unfortunately. The closest lake does not have a boat ramp, the one that does has a cap on motor HP of 9.9... These Old 2 cycles (combustion residue) are heavy polluters in the small bodies of water. I have seen what looks like Tar come from one that I w/n fish again.

*Maybe this is a rookie question, but why is their a difference in a barrel vs body of water? Just curious on the mechanism behind it. You saw the pressure from deep volume of water less cavatated is needed for good cooling and good tuning.