1984 BaylinerCX 225 floor and stringer resto project

hellion68

Cadet
Joined
Jun 2, 2011
Messages
14
:facepalm: So I have already been reading on here about what you all have to say about this, and, I want to start off with a big thanks too all the help I have already recieved from you all!
I know what your answers are for the floor and stringers, I am already tearing all the stringers and the floor up. Replacing all the wood, and chopped glass mat with epoxy resin.
Question #1
When I get into the engne mounting, how close does this have to be for alignment of the drive. Not sure if it will need replacing as of yet but from the look of things so far im am sure it will need it!

The Transom looks to be in great shape so far but we will see.
Question #2
What kind of wood should I use for the stringers Plywood or solid? I have 1/2 inch 5 ply exterior grade for the floor and to rebuild the engine compartment.
So is this ok, or should I use somthing solid, and what kind of solid wood or thicker exterior grade plywood?
Thanks in advance, ill try to post some pics here. As I enjoyed reading all your resto pics and would like to document this as well!
 

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proshadetree

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
1,887
Re: 1984 BaylinerCX 225 floor and stringer resto project

How close all depends on how much adjustment you have in your mounts. You do not have to be exact down to the hundred thousands of an inch but close enough to original to readjust the input shaft not to run in a bind.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1984 BaylinerCX 225 floor and stringer resto project

Welcome to Iboats Hellion ..

Here is my approach.

Transoms .. fit and glass.
Decks .. fit and glass.

Stringers .. measure .. template..jig..pics anything to help you put those puppies Right back to spec.

Take some time to LOOK ( pics for those with short memories ) and measure your stringers out.

I like to " string/grid " my stringer system before removal. Meaning I take fiberglass banding from beam to beam just touching the tops of the stringers. Use tape so you can adjust each side until the banding just touches the tops of the stringers ( one band every 3 foot ).

After the banding grid is touching the tops of the stringers.. I Mark one sides location of the band and Physically Attach the opposite side with a small screw and washer. Let go of the marked side of the banding and loop tape them on the side of the hull.

Now when installing the stringers I have them " Dry fit in " .. undo the bandings .. reach them across to there respective marks to see where the stringer sits.

You have to account for glass if you plan on "capping" the stringers" .. but if you have 3/16" gap from the tops of your stringers/banding your good to go.

Motor mount locations can be pinpointed using this method .. mark the banding crisscross to the exact location of your mounts.

Kind of confusing..but its not that hard to grid out your stringers ( unless they are already removed ;) ).

YD.
 

hellion68

Cadet
Joined
Jun 2, 2011
Messages
14
Re: 1984 BaylinerCX 225 floor and stringer resto project

Transom is done as well, the drive and engine is going to be removed by next weekend with any luck?
 
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