Re: 1984 evinrude 35hp ignition issue
You need a service manual in order to avoid expensive errors... that screw attached to the starter bracket is the full spark timing advance stop. If that is not exact (too far advanced) pre-ignition will tank place that could (and usually does) cause the pistons to melt down.
Testing for spark or using a timing light at cranking speed, the spark plugs must be removed in order to obtain the highest cranking speed which is required to have the stator energize the powerpack. To reset the full spark timing, see the following.........
(Timing At Cranking Speed 4?)
(J. Reeves)
NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperature.
The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.
To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).
Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4? less than what the engine calls for.
It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem but it could happen.
I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28?, set the timing at 24?. The reasoning for the 4? difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition components, the engine gains the extra 4?.
If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4? which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.
No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.
A fellow member from one of the various marine forums suggested having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller. A worthwhile suggestion I thought, and entered here.
Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
