1984 Evinrude xp150 VRO

PRYO_77

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Hey everyone...this is my first EVER forum subscription so here goes.

Recently I was given a late 80's early 90's (don't know the exact year cause the hin plate is gone) 17' Charger Bass Boat 170v with a 1984 2 Stroke xp150 VRO model E150STLCRD. This boat was given to me and the previous owner did not take the best care of it so I have a little bit of a project here ahead of me.

My first task was to get the motor running. It hasn't run since summer of 2015. I checked and cleaned the plugs, purged the old gas, and checked for leaks or seepage. Everything looked good and it fired right up on muffs. I have not had it out on the water yet due to poor weather in our area. The previous owner told me that the last time they had it out on the water the boat started up fine but once under load it would bogged down and shut off. ??

I found the shop service manual on Craigslist and got it for $30. I'm not afraid of a challenge and do a lot of my own auto repairs here st the house. However, This motor is a bit intimidating as it's older, a 2 stroke and has VRO which is something I'm not familiar with. I understand the concept of the VRO but I'm just not sure sure how to ensure it's working correctly.

Is there anyone out there that could give me any advice on what I should do to get this motor ship shape? Thanks in advance...
 

racerone

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The absolute first thing to do is a compression test.-----Post the numbers.
 

PRYO_77

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Well...I ended up taking the gear case off to inspect the impeller and I'm sure glad I did!
Totally warped...and the inside of that case is filthy and needs a good degreasing.
Can I do a compression test with the gear case off? The manual says to bring the motor to operating temp before doing the CT. Should I get the new impeller kit, put everything back together and then do the test or what?

- thanks for the help!
 

racerone

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Compression test can be done cold.----Can be done with the lower unit off.
 

PRYO_77

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Sorry for the delay...no work, no play. I'll post the numbers this weekend. The manual is giving me numbers but can you tell me what I'm looking for? What number should each cylinder register on the gauge? Should each cylinder be the same number?
 

boobie

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The cylinder # s should be with in 10 % of each other. Some OMC service manuals used to say no more than 15 psi between cylinders.
 

PRYO_77

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Ok...all cylinders on cold cranks are at 60psi each. I have heard that they need to be up around 90-100psi. Am I at 60 because it's cold? Thanks guys.
 

racerone

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I guess I have to repeat.----Warm / cold does not matter !!----Accuracy of your gauge does matter.----Condition of starter / battery also matters.------Up to you to test those things.
 

racerone

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Not in my book !-Test with another gauge !-----Load tested your battery ??---Inspected your starter ?-----I am not standing beside your motor, so you have to do some of the work.
 

PRYO_77

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Ok...Battery is good...starter is good...I will test with another gauge but...what number would be in "your book" :) The manual doesn't give a specific compression number, just says that all cylinders need to be testing within 15psi of each other.
 

flyingscott

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90 psi is a healthy motor. The fact that all your readings are exactly 60 means you need to try a different gauge.
 

PRYO_77

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I'm going to test the compression with a new gauge tonight and then post the numbers. I didn't have the throttle wide open upon testing...could that be the reason why the gauge only read 60psi?

Also...I have heard that replacing the thermostat is a good thing to do just because it's an older motor and probably has never been replaced. Should I do that?
 

racerone

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Throttle position does not matter when doing a compression test on that motor !!!
 

PRYO_77

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Well...the new gauge worked great. 96 psi on each cylinder with the throttle wide open.

So far I've changed out the water pump and changed out the plugs for new ones.

Any other "next steps" y'all recommend?
 

PRYO_77

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I does run and it runs well on muffs...I have not had it in the water yet however.

I replaced the water pump and noticed that the drive shaft, which was originally easy to spin with the old water pump, is now very difficult to spin. Is that because of the new impeller...it was a pretty tight fit. I used the Sierra replacement part. Thoughts?

Also...how can I ensure that the VRO is working? I've hear that it's a good idea to bypass it just due to age and reliability. Should I or should I not bypass VRO? I don't think it's broken.
 

boobie

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There should be a test procedure for the VRO in the service manual you said you had.
 
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