Re: 1985 XP150 Add filler blocks or not?
Total timing is a result of the amount & mixture of fuel you dump, cylinder head chamber configuration (huge), rpm, spark plug heat range, octane (big part), cooling configuration, top capable rpm, weather, altitude and so on. Believe it or not the hull design plays a part too (how easy it pushes / drag etc).
If you're unsure, test where you're at now with an average load. Note top rpm. Stop, advance the timing stop screw 1 turn (1 degree) and test again. If you gain a slight amout of rpm, advance another degree and retest.
At some point the last advance will make no difference in rpm. Go back that last degree and that should be good. On a lot of boats we see no difference between 26 and 28 therefore we leave it at 26.
On my motors, I stay at no more than the recommended setting. If you have a motor that the OE manual calls for 28, I stay there or even a degree back. If your motor calls for 30 and it's stock and as produced and you're running it as it was intended, I'd stay there or a degree back.
If you deviate from anything the manufacturer calls for, you're on your own. Champion plugs, fresh 87 octane and good oil are critical. If you're lugging the motor or using different fuel or running without t-stats or have cut the heads, then you have a modified motor and are on your own.
Like I mentioned, in most cases on a crossflow the last degree or even 2 don't make a lot of - if any - difference. If you back off then you'll have a degree or 2 of cushion.