1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Kymatlo

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Mar 25, 2007
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Ran accross the lake full throttle in a driving rainstorm, no problems. Slowed to idle to dock with houseboat, motor died (it does that sometimes going from full-out to idle).
Tried to restart, battery was low (didn't charge before I left. . .anyway)

Ran battery dead cranking.

Jumped battery, blew every fuse on every component connected to starting battery (marine radio, depth finder, nav lights). Maybe guy that jumped me hooked up his cables backwards (won't admit to doing it wrong, but it was pouring rain and blowing wind, and I was kinda rushing him, I definately got all kinds of spark off my battery though, and my cables were definately on there right)

Still never started, hasn't started since. Tried new battery. Will crank, spins like a top, sounds like it could start any second. . . never turns over.

Carbs are getting fuel from fuel line, but also tried spraying in fuel/oil mix and spraying in Starting fluid. . .no difference.

Plugs do arch at least a half inch to the block. Good solid blue spark. Checked them all, cleaned them off, put them back in right spots

I wouldn't think it's a kill switch issue since there's spark at the plugs. Is this correct thinking? Also, is there something in the timing system that could be blown by a bad jump?

I don't know a lot about 2-stroke repair beyond basic maintance, but I've got a Clymer manual and some free time this week. Any help is appreciated.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Did the RED lever on the fuel primer solenoid get moved from its normal position somehow? If so, that would cause fuel to be pouring into the intake manifold, flooding the engine.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

If you have fuel, spark (ignition), and compression, the engine should run.

That engine has a alternator charging system. Why do you need to charge the battery before using the rig?

Note..... cranking on the starter for over 20 seconds can (and usually does) result in having the solder on the armature melt down (destroys starter).
 

Kymatlo

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Mar 25, 2007
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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

The starting battery was old, and I use it to run some acessories as well. I've since moved the accessories to another battery and replaced the starting battery. This hasn't solved my problem, but it's frustrating troubleshooting a starting problem with a battery that will only crank the motor for maybe 4 or five 10-20 second burts and then dies.

I don't believe I've fried my starter. I don't crank it more than 20 seconds often. Fried strater would mean no spark anyway. . . .right?

The red lever on the electric choke solenoid may be something to try. I'll follow the instructions on the write up and see if that changes anything.
 

Kymatlo

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Mar 25, 2007
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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

I spent a good amount of time messing around with that red lever yesterday. . . no change.

What electrical could be blown that doesn't relate to spark? This is really making me want to pull my hair out. Like you said, it's got spark, it's got gas, it should be running. . .
 

JT!

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

i may be way off, but its happened to me before ...

... have you checked your reed valves? i had debris stuck at the base of the reed which held one open, preventing the drawn in fuel mixture from getting compressed in the lower crankcase.

I cleaned it and flipped the reed over on the cage and it was fine.
 

emdsapmgr

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11,551
Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Joe mentioned to check the fuel primer solenoid. (Your choke may not be working.) You can pull the fuel primer line off the barb on the top of the carb and push in on the key (choke) with the key in the "on" position. You should get fuel out of the line.
 

Kymatlo

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

OK, I've thought about this a little, and I think we're barking up the wrong tree here. It's not a fueling problem. I've cranked the thing with starting fluid in the carbs, I've cranked it with fuel primed into the carbs. It's still not starting. I'm back to the spark side of it now.

Is there a good way to test the proper voltage of the spark?

Also, is there a way to test the timing (make sure they're firing in order)?
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

In your first post, you state "Plugs do arch at least a half inch to the block. Good solid blue spark". I assume as such that your ignition system is okay. However, if the flywheel has been off and not torqued to the proper 145 foot pounds when installed, the flywheel key is no doubt sheared which would throw the engine out of time.

YOu may also want to check the center sensor magnets located in the center portion of the flywheel. I have seen quite a few of those epoxy type magnets melt down somewhat which affects the timing obviously.

Let us know what you find.
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
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11,551
Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Put a timing light on each plug wire. Normally, you should get strong, bright, rhythmic flashes on each plug wire. Look for intermittent or no flashes as a sign of a problem. The flywheel should be marked for checking the timing on both the #1 and #2 cylinders. Follow the factory manual to set to factory specs. The max timing should be on a tag on the airbox cover.
 

Kymatlo

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Just an update. . .I broke down and paid someone to fix it.

The kill switch was grounding out inside of the throttle assembly. Could literally take the throttle off and shake it around and get the boat to start, then screw it back into place and not get spark. The mechanic took it apart and the kill switch wire had one of the screws that attaches the two halves of the throttle assembly pinching it real bad. replaced the switch, no issues since.

I knew this was going to be something stupid, just didn't look in the right place. . .
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1986 Johnson 150 V6 won't quite start

Strange indeed that the spark would arc a half inch with that kill switch shorted out.
 
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