1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

[rc3477]

I have a 1987 125hp force and have been trying to get control cables set on this thing for the past week. I finally found cables that work, along with a mercury control box that the parts store said would work. I installed the control cables using several different adapter as they are universal cables. Well the shift cable works fine goes into forward and reverse smooth, however the throttle is a whole different story. The control box pushes when it should pull. And pulls when it should push making the throttle in operable. Anybody have any ideas this thing has me boggled.

Thanks
Ray

 

[maxum247]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Is your thottle set up like this one at the carburetor.

 

[rc3477]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

yea its that setup. My temporary fix is a throttle arm from a yamaha box and a few different adapters. It works just like to know whats the right setup.

 

[JoeCrow]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Which Merc controller are you using?

 

[SwampThing]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

I'm having a similar issue with my 86 125hp. I have a single lever remote. The cables seemed to get out of adjustment and I went to adjust them. Everything WAS working fine until I got to messing with the cables.

The problem now is that I can't seem to get the two cables adjusted properly to allow it to shift properly. Carbs / timing set up properly. When put I the engine in neutral, evidenced by the neutral safety switch being in the proper position and the prop spinning free, I connect the cables. When I go to shift the remote the gear shift lever cam / tab binds on the throttle rod tab. What gives? I have messed around with this for days and can't seem to get it right. I have several manuals on this engine and none of them offer a SPECIFIC procedure on how to deal with the throttle cables. Other than to describe how to adjust the throttle rod and then say "connect cables" - no mention of how the throttle rod, shift rod, and NSS switch all work in conjunction with each other and how to get it set properly.

My set up looks identical to the one in the above picture except that the base color of the engine is white.

The only thing I did was to disconnect the cables at the engine and attempt to adjust them. Nothing else was disturbed in the process. The whole reason I even messed with it was because the last time out it felt as if the remote lever was moving farther forward to reach full throttle and I was looking for a way to tighten it up.

My thinking was to adjust the cables and the indeed when I took a look at them the jam nuts had backed off on the cables. Figured easy fix right, Wrong! and now I'm stuck on dry land just as the Great lakes perch season is heating up. Help Please? and thank you.

 

[maxum247]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Do you have Clymer Force outboard shop manual number B751-4
4-150 HP (includes L-Drives) 1984-1999 if so look on page 563 under
Control cable removal/installation (engine)

 

[SwampThing]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Do you have Clymer Force outboard shop manual number B751-4
4-150 HP (includes L-Drives) 1984-1999 if so look on page 563 under
Control cable removal/installation (engine)

No I have the original shop manuals on CD.
Any way you could send me a copy of that page? PDF / DOC ?

 

[Godfirst]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Hi,
Hang in there I had a 1988 Bayliner with a force 125 outboard never let me down bullet proof, little underpowered but thats fine I just like to fish and tour, I found a good mobile mechanic out of a google search in my area and that thing ran like brand new for me.
Take care

 

[maxum247]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

No I have the original shop manuals on CD.
Any way you could send me a copy of that page? PDF / DOC ?

Control cable removal/installation (engine)

Disconnect the negative battery cables. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads. (safety precaution)

1.To install the cables, route both cables through the lower support plate grommet and position each cable near the respective cable anchor.
2.Install the cable connector to each cable. The throttle cable connector is longer than the shift connector and is spring loaded.
3.Install the throttle cable into the fixed clamp and align the detent in the swinging clamp with the groove in the throttle cable. Close the swinging clamp. Install and tighten the clamp screw securely.
4.Shift the remote control into the NEUTRAL position. Hold the throttle linkage on the engine against the idle stop screw. Pull the throttle connector towards the stud and adjust the throttle connector until the throttle connector will just touch the stud with the slack pulled out of the cable. See Figure 58.
5.Tighten the jam nut securely against the throttle connector.
6.Stretch the connector over the stud, pull back on the outer sleeve and install the connector over the stud.
7.Shift the remote control into FORWARD gear, full throttle position. Rotate the propeller to ensure full gear engagement. Return the remote control to the idle position. The throttle connector should stretch approximately 1/4 in. (6.3 mm) when properly adjusted. See Figure 59.
8.Install the shift connector into the fixed clamp and align the detent in the swinging clamp with the groove in the shift cable. Close the swinging clamp. Install and tighten the clamp screw securely.
9.Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position. Manually shift the engine shift linkage until the interlock switch is activated by the interlock cam. The propeller should spin freely in either direction. If the propeller engages either gear when the interlock switch is aligned with the cam, refer to Gear Shift Linkage Adjustment in chapter nine.
10.Pull gently out on the shift cable to remove slack and adjust the connector until it is centered over the shift linkage stud. Tighten the jam nut securely against the connector.
11.Pull back on the connector outer sleeve and install it over the shift stud.
12.Reconnect the spark plug leads and battery cable.

Sorry for the poor picture, the writing in figure 59 says:

1/4 in.
(6.3 mm)


cable stretched at idle

 

[SwampThing]

Re: 1987 125hp Force Never ending problem

Well now, I do appreciate your follow up Maxum247.
I noticed several discrepancies and additional information between what you posted (I assume from the Clymer manual) and the shop manuals that I have.
I think I'm on the way to having this issue solved, with your help. Hopefully I'll get the time to knock it out today and I'll report back.

Thank you again.