1987 STARCRAFT Open Bow Total Restoration/Rebuild & Repower-PICS

[irish24]

This has been a difficult project. Kinda had no idea what I was getting into. Lots of learning and familiarization with new products I've never used. I've finished the demo and installing all new stringers and transom on this fiberglass rebuild. Using West Systems products, all wood was bonded to the hull with the 404 High Density Filler at a peanut butter consistency. This stuff sets up like concrete, very strong and hard. The transom was especially challenging to tackle as I had to remove the original using a chainsaw....worked like a charm. Of course this also required separating the top and bottom of the boat. I still need to glass all stringers, but I'm thinking ahead about the deck/sole install. My true concern is water drainage. I would like to fill all empty spaces below deck with the 2 part, closed cell, 2lb expandable foam from US Composites. Obviously with the exception of the center channel, fuel cell and bilge areas. Benefits being: sound dampening, slight increase in hull rigidity and flotation in case of catastrophe. The idea was to glass the sole into the gunwales. I want all water above deck to drain via the bilge area at the stern and completely seal off all ability for water to reach anywhere else below deck except the center channel. I've placed no limber holes as I want everything dry below deck. Was considering a couple deck drains to run through the stringers to center channel. Any thoughts on how to accomplish this, or is it an unreal expectation to be totally dry below deck??

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Irish24,
You have done some excellent work with the wood and glassing. Really nice job.
There is volumes of information here on i-boats and alot of great people here also.
You should look at Friscoboaters and Oops threads.
Oops thread is full of information on ever aspect of how too's.
Friscoboaters thread is also full of info but he goes the extra mile and does fantastic video's.
Nothing like reading and seeing it on vids.
Just wanted to stop in and say hey. Keep up the great work

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Well, here's the latest. Finally finished glassing the sub floor, just haven't taken pics yet. I'll be happy to not be mixing any epoxy for a few days while it all sets up. However, it came out great. Being not a fan of prep work, I learned that PeelPly was my best friend! I strongly suggest anyone glassing stringers use this product. It just gets too difficult to reach tight corners with any kind of sander. It also leaves the surface prepped for the next layup or simply a nice transition.

Anyone know of any concerns or things to watch out for when installing the gas tank in the sub floor? Should there be some sort of rubber or protective coating between the plastic tank and the fiberglass hull of the boat?

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Thx Decker for directing me to Oops's thread on subfloor foam ideas. I think I will employ the concept of wrapping the cavities in plastic b/4 pouring foam with pvc in place as "thru holes" for the foam. The plastic will allow for the foam and pvc to be removed after initial expansion. The pvc will act as a form for any potential water to pass thru limber holes. I have racked my brain on how to make my subfloor totally waterproof with exception for the center channel and bilge. Yet the more I read in these forums, the more I realize this is most likely an impossible concept. Water will always find its way into anything. The only unfortunate part is that I fabbed and installed these stringers without limber holes. Problem being, It's gonna be really difficult to get down in the 90 deg. corners of stringers bonded directly to the hull to actually drill. Ohh well, back to the garage.

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Went to visit an actual boat building/repair business today to ask a few questions and for opinion. Got some good tips for Fuel Cell install, Limber Holes and use of Foam. As far as the Fuel tank, I was told to use a special adhesive rubber, available locally and a closed cell. This rubberized foam goes down like a "big sticker" to give the fuel tank a nice resting position to the hull. I kinda like this idea and think I'll use it. Another concern was the passing of Fuel Lines through the stringers. The concern was vibration possibly wearing a hole through the plastic Fuel Tank or Line. It was suggested to drill over sized holes, coat hole with epoxy, then cut another piece of Fuel Line hose to "double wrap" the actual transition of Fuel Line through stringer. Caulk any gaps with 5200. Also sounds pretty good. I'm still totally stuck on the fence about the use of Foam. I've read many threads on the use of Foam in boats and certainly people swear by it and others against. I really liked Oops idea how he applied his Foam and kinda decided to go with it. The only thing i didn't like was that the Foam wouldn't actually be adhered to the hull b/c of the plastic wrap. In case of catastrophe, I felt this was necessary for a direct bond. The closed cell Foam could keep water out of the boat if there were an unfortunate "dock incident" or underwater obstruction. Then the guy at the boat shop told me the reason he doesn't use Foam in his builds is b/c from what he sees, Foam is essentially a sponge and is most always responsible for stringer rot. But, as I also see in these forums is that most any DIY resto job is far superior to any factory build. Must admit, that's a bit reassuring as this is my first run at the use of any of these products and their application. In addition to the non-use of Foam, the guy at the shop also suggested drilling additional holes through each stringer connecting each cell to the next for air flow. With that and the use of Limber Holes, the boat could stay dry. Kinda makes sense. Again, potential incident.....? I wanted this thing to be waterproof below deck...My Glass Starcraft is about 16'6" bow to stern w/o outboard/swim platform and supposedly requires "some foam." Apparently, there is an actual USCG requirement for smaller boats requiring a certain amount of Foam for additional buoyancy. I've got a 500GPH Bilge Pump which should keep up with some water flow or any waves over the bow. At this point, I can see only three options: 1) No Limber Holes, roll underside of deck in West Epoxy, attach Sole/Deck using PB along stringers and perimeter, drill multiple "Donut" holes through deck for Foam and expansion, replace donut plugs and glass floor into gunwales. Final application to be gel-coat on deck and then pray no water ever gets below deck. 2) Follow Oops concept, as described in previous post, which will provide flotation during incident, water drainage, sound dampening and hull rigidity. Everything I'm looking for. I thought I would use this concept of Foam application everywhere except the back corners where I feel might be most susceptible to damage, no plastic. And clearly the deck would be installed the same as just described b/4 using PB all around. 3) No Foam anywhere, drill Limber Holes, drill "breather holes" connecting all cells as described by "the boat guy," coat in epoxy and install deck as previously described.....I just want to do it right, once and never again. Does anyone have any ideas?

...back to the garage.

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Well, after totally nuking the concept/over thinking at this point of the project ....I've again decided to follow Oops thread on sub floor and foam application. Blue cloth in photo makes an awesome butt pad...btw. Drilled Limber Holes at the low point of each sub floor cell using a Forrester Bit...nice and clean, sub floor cells will then be lined in plastic. Then coated each hole with a slightly thickened epoxy. Will attach plastic w/in cells using dabs from a hot glue gun to hold in place while foam is poured. Read Oops thread on "hull extension" for further detail. Still looking around for some free/leftover dumpster shrink wrap/plastic at the local boat shops. Apparently most were closed yesterday due to "voting holiday." I'll find some eventually to make this happen. Starting to get excited as this project is moving along nicely. Cant wait to get her wet for the first time.... beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Photos don't include epoxy coat on Limber Holes. More goodness to come...back to the garage.

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Do I need to seal the interior of the hull with epoxy or 2 part epoxy paint? Is it necessary to sand every bit of the interior sub floor/hull b/4 hand? Any ideas?....back to the garage.

 

[irish24]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Please Help, I'm a Disabled Vet with specific injuries that make every aspect of this project that much more complicated, lengthy and difficult. Hence the reason it has taken me a couple years to get to where I am now on this boat. Everything I'm doing here is totally new to me. Really wish someone with some prior experience could help point me in the right direction, at a total stand still......thanks for any ideas.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Re: 1987 Starcraft Fish and Ski Total Restoration/Rebuild-PICS

Irish,

From what I can see your glassing looks great! The prior experience I do not have, but I am going through the same reconstruction stages you are right now. As far as the degree of sanding, I have sanded everything down to the point where it looks like I am down to the original hull, however I would also feel comfortable sanding everything to the point where it appears to be a solid glass laminate with the hull and stop. Applying epoxy to all the exposed glass I do not believe is necessary but I have been doing it anyway. I heat my epoxy first to bring down the viscosity, which makes it real easy to distribute with a brush.

For the under deck drain you can take a look at my thread (1976 Arabian below). However unconventional this method was I feel really comfortable with the result AND it was super easy. Also, I just posted a pour in foam thread (attached link) where posters showed some really good foaming ideas. I will end up using the method where the deck secured in place and foam poured through holes in the deck.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=535442

By the way, thank you so much for your honorable service to this country.