Re: 1987 VRO 90 Test alarms
I dont have a service manual yet, I just perchased the boat, with 1987 Johnson V4 VRO 90, and was wondering how to test the over heat, and the two oil alarms. The oil tank is under rear seat. Thanks, Steve
Starting point:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
The following really seems like a lot, but will only take you about 30 minutes. It is all in the Owner's Manual and Service Manual for your engine. I really recommend you get one or both.
Maintenance:
Unscrew and pull pickup from tank. Make sure it has a filter on it. Make sure there's no obvious blockages. Might be a good idea just to install a new one. Check the float switch to make sure it is working freely. Re-install, making sure gasket seals.
Use a turkey baster and pull a few ounces of oil from the lowest part of the bottom of the tank. Squirt into a clear container and look for any signs of water or contamination. If you see it, completely drain the tank, clean it and replace with fresh oil. (you can re=use the oil if it's clean and uncontaminated)
Trace OIL LINE from oil tank all the way to VRO/OMS pump on engine. Make sure all connections are air tight, preferably with ratchet type hose clamps rather than nylon tie wraps or metal hose clamps. Make sure there's no kinks or air leaks.
Trace the ELECTRIC CABLE from the oil tank to the connection inside the engine compartment. Make sure the connection is clean and solid. This is the "low oil" alarm triggered by the float switch inside the tank.
Look for the wiring harness that comes from the pump itself - probably a 4 wire cable with a rubber connection. Make sure the connection is solid and that the terminals inside are clean. This is the "no oil" warning system triggered by the sensor inside the pump iteslf (described in the above referenced article).
Back to the oil line. You need to prime it or it won't work: There should be a little clear/whitish plastic part in the oil line right near where it connects to the VRO/OMS pump. Disconnect the oil hose just "down stream" (towards the tank) from there. Pump the oil line primer bulb until all air is expelled from the line and pump out several ounces of oil (into a container of course) to make sure there's no air in the line. Pump a good amount through so you are sure the entire line is completely purged. Reconnect, clamp well, and give the bulb another couple of pumps at least until that clear plastic part shows it's full of oil. You can re-use that oil as long as it's clean and uncontaminated.
WHENEVER YOU RE-PRIME THE SYSTEM, YOU SHOULD RUN PRE-MIX GAS UNTIL YOU'RE SURE IT'S WORKING PROPERLY (by watching fuel and oil consumption for a tank or so).
Alarms:
Continuous alarm: overheat. Test by finding overheat sensor on both cylinder heads (look for tan wire). Disconnect tan wire and touch it to a good ground with the key on. Should sound the alarm.
V-6 Engines also have a continuous alarm for fuel restriction. The difference is that overheat also triggers the "SLOW" mode and won't go away until the engine cools and is shut off and restarted. Fuel restriction sounds at higher RPMs and will immediately quit when the engine speed is reduced. It does not trigger the "SLOW" mode.
Rapid Intermittent alarm (on/off every second): "no oil". This sensor is in the pump itself. To test
- First, run pre-mixed gas in your tanks and make sure it's getting to the engine before you disconnect oil line to test the alarm. Continue running pre-mix until you're done with the maintenance and testing and are sure everything is working correctly.
- disconnect oil line just downstream of the clear tube at the pump.
- run engine on fast idle (make sure you have it on the hose or in the water). After a few minutes, when all the oil in the pump is used up, the "no oil" alarm should sound. This shows you the sensor is working for a "no oil" condition. Turn off engine.
- Re-prime the oil system thoroughly and reconnect. Restart engine w/ water source as above. The "no oil" alarm will likely sound at first, but after a few minutes should go off. This shows you the system is primed and the sensor is working to shut off the alarm when the oil supply is re-established.
- keep running the pre-mix for now.
Slow intermittent alarm (on/off every 20-40 seconds): "low oil" . The sensor for this is a float switch inside the tank (which you saw above). It should come on when the oil tank gets below 1/4 full. To test:
- using your turkey baster, empty the oil tank to a level that is very low, (less than 1/4) but still deep enough to keep that pickup filter covered. You can keep this oil and re-use it as long as it's clean and uncontaminated.
- run the engine w/ water source. "Low oil" alarm should sound. You might have to wait a while - remember, this alarm sounds every 20-40 seconds so you won't notice it at first. Let it cycle for a couple of minutes after you hear it, just to make sure it's working.
- As you're running the engine, now put oil into the oil tank. As you get it above about 1/4 full, the alarm should quit. I recommend putting the oil in a pint or so at a time, and slowly, just to get a good idea of the point that your alarm sounds (or shuts off in this case). Maybe use this as an opportunity to make measured marks on your tank for general oil usage reference in the future. After you're sure the alarm is sounding, and shutting off properly, go ahead and fill the tank.
Check overall oil usage
Now that you've done the maintenance and alarm checks, and you're still running pre-mix, check the overall oil usage:
- mark the level of oil in the oil tank with a piece of tape (I actually have mine marked at 1 quart intervals just so I can keep a general idea of how the oil is being used from fill to fill).
- fill your tank to a level you think you can duplicate later (i.e. "completely full").
- Run the engine on pre-mix for at least 5-10 gallons. Re-fill the oil and gas and note how much is burned. Should come to a ratio of 50-60:1.
Now you can quit running premix and be very comfortable that your system is working well and that the alarms will tell you if you're having a problem.
This should be annual maintenance. It seems like a lot, but really only takes 30 minutes or so once you get the hang of it.
